blitzteggsr

UPDATE:

I think I found the problem. The boot surrounding the rear caliper piston was dry and buckled when I twisted the piston back into the caliper. All it needed was some grease and the piston was able to move much better.

Now, when I'm driving (without pressing the brakes), the rear brake pads are barely touching the rotors so there is a slight metal to metal sound. When I mean barely touching I mean very lightly. If I jacked up the car and spun the rear wheels, it would spin freely but you will hear a very slight metal contact sound from the pads slightly touching certain parts of the rotors. Is this sound normal and will it go away?

Modified by blitzteggsr at 3:33 AM 4/26/2004


Modified by blitzteggsr at 4:52 PM 4/29/2004

cougar10ag

AHHHHHHH anytime you replace pads you wanna get the rotors resurfaced.. you gotta do that

blitzteggsr

what happens if you don't resurface the rotors?

cougar10ag

well one, the rotors are most likely warped and scorred.. then the pads don't mate to the surface correctly so you will get uneven wear.

PushinRedline

nothing will happen if you don't resurface the rotor. It just doens't brake as well as when you resurfaced the rotors. (but make sure the rotors are still thick enuff and safe enuff to operate,or else it'll snap off under high pressure)
About the sounds the brake is making:
-Did you use those brake lubricant paste on the right places where the brake pads move in a and out? if yes, good. Cuz normally people dont do this(it doesnt really matter anyways)
-Did you use brake noise reducer on the right places?i put it on the outside of the pads.

If you've done those stuff then the sounds it's making is normal. They're new brake pads and you have to give it a little time for it to settle. probly a day or two of driving. Also remember your discs aren't resurfaced so you have to let the pads work their way into the grooves.

my $.02

SuzukaBlueAP2

Just want to share some pics of rear pads and rotors....
One rear rotor...way nasty. Groved and rusted to hell.

The outside of one of the rear rotors...eww....

Replaced with these.


These are the brand new auto zone pads.

Old outside pad. Notice the grove going through the center.

This was an inside rear pad...completely gone!

Same pad....as you can see, nothing left.



Basically, what I'm saying here is, if your rear rotors are destroyed, grooved, nasty or whatever, and you throw some new pads on, they are not going to be as effective as they should be.

If there are groves, the new pads will shape the same way as the rotor. So, you need to have smooth rotor surfaces when changing brake pads. Atleast if they are this bad.

wreckedmyteg

You need to pull the pins out of the carrier for the caliper. They're probably frozen. I just wrecked a set of EBC pads and AEM rotors the same way. Pull out the pins (I had to use a torch and hammer), then sand them down, and hone the carrier.

blitzteggsr

Here is what my rotors look like with my original brake pads..




It seems like the new brake pads are too thick and they rub against the rotor when the brakes & e-brake are not in use. I can hear the pads rubbing the rotors when I am driving.


Modified by blitzteggsr at 6:34 AM 4/26/2004

B2FiNiTY

iTrader: (2)

Make sure it is the right pad.

WhoisDan

changed out my brakes. didnt have this proble.

MR5sARECOOL

you only need to resurface if its worn(grooved), or warped. Never had this problem, re-check your install, make sure you have the inners in, and the outers out.

JBBNJ609

yea always get your rotor turned or resurfaced , its only like 10 $ at pepboys or autozone and will make your pads work the best with your older rotors

blitzteggsr

I have the correct pads and I have them placed in the correct location (inners & outers). When I twist the piston back in, it slowly comes out and it is squeezing the pads together on the rotor.

PlastikOwl

I just put new rear pads on my car on sunday...they looked pretty huge...and my rotors looked nothing like the pictures above (change your pads before the wear indicator grinds away)

No problems with any grinding or anything.

Redtail

did you remember to screw the piston back into the caliper when you installed the new pads?

PlastikOwl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redtail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you remember to screw the piston back into the caliper when you installed the new pads?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Typically you HAVE to in order to get it to fit back over the rotor...because the new pads are always thicker than the old ones.

blitzteggsr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redtail &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you remember to screw the piston back into the caliper when you installed the new pads?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did screw the piston back as far as I could but as soon as i let go, it screws itself back out.

Sam92Teg

Push the car while in nuetral to see how hard your brakes are dragging. Or jack up the wheel and try to spin it. Sounds like you could possible have a caliper sticking on you. But if the car can be pushed and the wheel spins with just a little drag, all is well probably. I make sure to lube the sliding pins so the calipers don't stick on me.

cougar10ag

on the brakcet that holds the caliper.. theres the floating mechnisms.. the pins that are atacched to the rubber boot.s they have wheel bearing grease in them and they push the caliper back out away form the rotor.. if the boot tore, or fell off (like mine) you will need to clena out the boots and the pins and pack them wiht new grease.

dohcroc

u can be sure its your caliper stickn check your pins that hold it in place take them out and clean and lube like peeps above said and that all get the rotors resurfaced wen u get the time to.

MajorPayne

if the rotors are worn down, you can get some stock replacement rotors at autozone for like 15 a piece, if the screws that hold on the rotor are stuck an easy way to get them unstuck is to put a screwdriver in there and hit it hard a couple times with a hammer, then they should screw right out, worked for me anyways, just thought id try and help out

blitzteggsr

I appreciate all your replies and help. I noticed that the boot around the caliper piston is buckled. How do I get to the pins to lube them?

MajorPayne

well you can either take out the bolts that go through the pins and take the pins out and lube them, or you should be able to just slide back the boots and lube them that way, but if you want to do as good of a job as you can id say take them out

blitzteggsr

I think I found the problem. The boot surrounding the rear caliper piston was dry and buckled when I twisted the piston back into the caliper. All it needed was some grease and the piston was able to move much better.

Now, when I'm driving (without pressing the brakes), the rear brake pads are barely touching the rotors so there is a slight metal to metal sound. When I mean barely touching I mean very lightly. If I jacked up the car and spun the rear wheels, it would spin freely but you will hear a very slight metal contact sound from the pads slightly touching certain parts of the rotors. Is this sound normal and will it go away?

ozzyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blitzteggsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is what my rotors look like with my original brake pads..




It seems like the new brake pads are too thick and they rub against the rotor when the brakes & e-brake are not in use. I can hear the pads rubbing the rotors when I am driving.


Modified by blitzteggsr at 6:34 AM 4/26/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm SOOOOO glad I don't live on the east coast.