Re: brake bleeding
What's up Tech-ers
I replaced my stock rotors yesterday with some Brembo blanks. While I was changing the drivers side, I loosened the bleeder and of course fluid slowly gushed out. So while I put the rotor on, I let the fluid continue to let out. After I was done, I tightened everything back up. I pumped the pedal to get any air bubbles out and also poured more brake fluid in the resevoir.
I drove for a couple of minutes, but the brake pedal doesn't have any resistance until the 3rd time pressing on the brake pedal. By the 4th stroke the brakes are fine, but after a couple of minutes the same thing happens where the pedal just goes all the way in with no resistance.
There are not any air bubbles in the brake resevoir, and I've pumped numerous times. Any advice on this issue or should I just continue to drive it out???
Thanks
I replaced my stock rotors yesterday with some Brembo blanks. While I was changing the drivers side, I loosened the bleeder and of course fluid slowly gushed out. So while I put the rotor on, I let the fluid continue to let out. After I was done, I tightened everything back up. I pumped the pedal to get any air bubbles out and also poured more brake fluid in the resevoir.
I drove for a couple of minutes, but the brake pedal doesn't have any resistance until the 3rd time pressing on the brake pedal. By the 4th stroke the brakes are fine, but after a couple of minutes the same thing happens where the pedal just goes all the way in with no resistance.
There are not any air bubbles in the brake resevoir, and I've pumped numerous times. Any advice on this issue or should I just continue to drive it out???
Thanks
DO NOT KEEP DRIVING YOUR CAR!!! You have air in your brake lines and the only way out is to pump it out with a pump and the bleeders. Start from your furthest brake away from the master cyl. and work your way to the closest. I promise you after once or twice of doing this, it will be back to normal.
I couldn't tell if you know this by reading the post, but when you bleed your brakes, the bleeder screw needs to be close when you release your brakes. In other words, the screw is only open when the pedal is traveling down or completely down. In the situation you described, you wouldn't have to bleed the brakes. However, if you bled them improperly, you have air in your lines. By a brake bleeder kit from auto zone for $4. it's called OEM brand and you can bleed your brakes by youself.
You need to rebleed your brakes using the proper method.
1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line.
2. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
3. Loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely.
4. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown below, until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid.
5. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) leve line.
BLEEDING SEQUENCE:
a)Front Left
b)Front Right
c)Rear Right
d)Rear Left
(Taken From Helms Manual)
1. Make sure the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line.
2. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure.
3. Loosen the brake bleed screw to allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the bleed screw securely.
4. Repeat the procedure for each wheel in the sequence shown below, until air bubbles no longer appear in the fluid.
5. Refill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) leve line.
BLEEDING SEQUENCE:
a)Front Left
b)Front Right
c)Rear Right
d)Rear Left
(Taken From Helms Manual)
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