Evil_Send

1990 Integra LS 4 Door Auto

My car started to misfire a couple of weeks ago so i performed a basic tune up just in case.New plugs,fuel air,and oil filter were installed and nothing.I then decide to pull the codes
and got 7-8-12.

Next day I reset the ECU and next day took it for a drive after 10 or so minutes it started to misfire again so went back home to pull codes and nothing no codes.I left car like that and next day started normally but again after 10 minutes it started to misfire again checked for codes and no codes.

Before all this i notices that timing belt is "stretched" and probably never been changed and water pump is leaking.

I need to have car running for next week the problem is only have around $250 left until mid August.If i go ahead and do the timing belt and it end up being the dizzy i'm F$%k but same way if y put dizzy and end up being timing belt jump a teeth or to loose and Fu$*%k as well so any guess what is wrong with car.BTW only had the car for maybe 2 months.

Duane_in_Japan

This is the wrong thing for me to say so I will say its for troubleshooting purposes only. Pull the timing covers and tighten the timing belt, make sure its in time or reset it if the belt jumped. Put it back together and go for a drive, it it does not act up after 15 minutes then you have found the problem, dont forget to buy a complete timing belt kit and a water pump too if this is the problem.

For starters, clean the throttlebody and IACV, use brake and parts cleaner, not carb cleaner, at least on the IACV. You may also want to see how the valves are adjusted but a quick check of the MAP sensor voltage at a fully warmed up engine idle with no accessories on will tell the story there, 1 volt DC or a hair under is better, this is the wire going back to the computer, use a digital meter on this one.

Evil_Send

tested the TDC sensor and is within range 450ohm,already ordered all the necesary to change the timing belt including water pump right now going to test the ignition coil i know coils tend to act up as they get hot i report later

oh and the cleaning the tb and everything else is been done already thanks for tip

also wnated to note that the misfire happens at all rpms driving,stop,cruising accelerating sometimes it cut off engine competently but this only happens when i come to a stop abruptly like when when when stoplight changes to yellow but all the sudden the one in front of you change his mind and stop

Evil_Send

OK update tested the coil between A and B and reading is 53.8 ohms which seems wrong according to the FSM that says 0.6-0.8 ohms and between terminal A and second winding i can't get any readings and m.meter can read up to 20k or 20,000 ohms anybody can shed some light here?


correction retested and now i'm getting 1.6ohm(double of whats supposed to) between A and B and 12840 between A and second winding one of the test lead was f%%$*k.Still resistance between A and B or out of specs.
Anyone ?
Ideas?
Experience?

Evil_Send

this is so frustrating

took car for a drive tsrated misfiring again and guess what codes 7-8-12 pop out again,i'm pretty sure was is triggering the others

Duane_in_Japan

You cannot trust ohm readings on a coil, its not a good test unless the circuit is OPEN completely. Can you hook up a timing light and tape it outside of the hood where you can see the light flash, you will see a misfire on the light and maybe you can track down if it is only one cylinder or all of them.

Dieing at stops happens a lot with a stuck open EGR valve, this also may be a cause of a constant misfire but I would think it would clear up at higher speeds, does you car have an EGR valve.

#7 Throttle postition sensor
#8 TDC sensor
#12 EGR System

EGR, unplug it or disconnect the vacuum hose and plug the hose at the EGR valve, see what happens.

Evil_Send

i was planning to clean it tomorrow ill do that first to see what happen

Evil_Send

dude i followed you advice about the EGR valve,i removed the valve and spray the hell out of it with TB cleaner also used a small brass bore brush i had that i use when cleaning my pistols and put it back with new gasket sprayed the plug with some WD40 just in case and after 35+ miles still have not misfired or hesitated lets see tomorrow is 70+miles i let you know how it went

Evil_Send

Update today i drove the car for about 50-60 miles and i ran pretty well but occasionally i could feel the "jump" or small hesitation specially when idling.I'm pretty sure i cleaned the EGR valve and the passages the best i could now my question is there any problems "deleting" the EGR valve besides the check engine and the higher emissions(no emissions test in FL)

i have seen many people done that but most of them have built their cars into racing cars mine s a DD , i can live with the check engine(besides i think mine don't work) please need input better if you had done it.

Duane_in_Japan

It would be wrong for me to tell you to delete it, but I can say to remove it and block off the holes with the gasket and a cover plate that you make yourself. If the problem goes away completely then you need to do a much better job cleaning out the EGR ports, all four of them, and if that does not cure it once you put the EGR valve back on then you have a leaking EGR valve or a vacuum issue holding the EGR valve open.

Above you stated you cleaned it and drove it, disconnect the vacuum hose or electrical connector and see how it runs before removing it completely and blocking off the ports.

Evil_Send

ill do that today and let you know is driving me crazy already

Evil_Send

Update:

Replaced the timing belt on my car along with the bad distributor now car runs better than before but still once in a while it start misfiring or hesitating at a stop or accelerating from a stop.

SO finally i decided to order the EGR block plate, so what i did is removed the EGR put new gasket ,put the plate and then put back the EGR valve and leave it connected to electrical and vacuum connections.

Results no more hesitation running more smooth now and since i left it connected no cel light.And after all that i replace the plug wires with NGK ones and car runs even better.I'm a happy kid now.

Duane_in_Japan

I believe that you will eventually get a check engine light, on Hondas, the computer uses the voltage feedback from the MAP sensor to tell the ECM that the EGR valve has opened. When the EGR valve opens to allow exhaust gas to recirculate into the intake manifold, this affects the actual vacuum and the MAP sensor sees this small change in vacuum, hense reporting to the ECM that the EGR valve actually opened. This will not happen since you blocked off the EGR system completely. You should get an EGR code, not a MAP code by the way.

I believe that all you need to do is clean your EGR ports in the intake manifold and the EGR valve itself and your problems will go away. There are DIY tutorials all over this website to show you how to do it. I personally also recommend new spark plugs after this procedure is complete and you have run the engine to blow everything out of the cylinders such as pieces of carbon and whatever you used as a solvent to do the cleaning.

honda_sanchez21

change the belt and ect. it needs it anyway. its not a waist. dont aleaviate fix. thats the name of the game

Evil_Send

post #12
Replaced the timing belt on my car ....

Evil_Send

Maybe you misunderstood me the EGR valve still connected to both electrical and vacuum is just is sitting on top of the plate but no hot air is getting inside the intake

unless like you said the map sensor and the intake temperature sensor actually confirms to the ECU any changes made by the EGR opening and letting hot air in maybe i get a cel but I really doubt it because with any of the 2 sides(electrical or vacuum) disconnected from EGR cel light turns withing 1 minute of driving the car.

Today i put around 200 miles total and no cel light , to me car breathes easier specially accelerating but i could be wrong of course.

The only thing that still bothers me is that it seems like the distributor i got is bad as well because today in 2 occasions car did not wanted to start first time, put the key in off position cranked again and voila car started with no problem but have not check for codes yet is to late and i'm tired as hell.

Duane_in_Japan

Yes, I did understand that you blocked off the port, I didnt know that this model had a temp sensor though, I hope it all works out for you but I think it will ultimetely be an easy fix of just cleaning out the ports when you get a day to do the whole job.

Evil_Send

i think my problem is the EGR itself and not the ports , i cleaned the ports 3 times i even poured chemtool like every hour for a period of 7-8 hours and let it sit overnight