Popping front lower balljoints & other random observations
06-11-2005, 10:19 PM
#57
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Re: (MrTodd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrTodd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The reason why people always seperate the balljoints is because that's the way the HELMS manual tells you how to do it. I've never seperated a balljoint in my life, as I've always done the method that you talk about... However, if you know how to do it right (like the original poster's method) then you can actually have the axle out quicker than taking the time to loosen all of those bolts.
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I agree, I have alwayss popped the balljoints loose when removing axles. The last time I changed both my axles on a lift, I had the whole job done in about an hour.
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I agree, I have alwayss popped the balljoints loose when removing axles. The last time I changed both my axles on a lift, I had the whole job done in about an hour.
07-13-2005, 04:35 AM
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Re: (Bailhatch)
The hammer method works well. However, keep the castle nut on the threads but just keep it loose. Nothing more would be a pain then hitting those threads with the hammer and needing to do more unneeded work.
08-30-2005, 03:00 PM
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Re: Popping front lower balljoints & other random observations (IN VTEC)
Sweet. I'm saving this in my favorite links for future reference.
Bumping this back from the dead!
Bumping this back from the dead!
08-30-2005, 05:44 PM
#60
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Re: (ferio 95)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ferio 95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i still dont understand why people remove the ball joints when installing axles. the easiest and quickest way is to remove the 12mm nut from the sway bar and then the 17mm bolt that holds the control arm to the subframe and its pretty damn easy and oyu wont have to worry about busting boots or stipping the threads on the ball joint like ive done in the past 
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thats all fine and dandy until you ovetighten the lca bolt and break the weld off the nut in the subframe...then your fuckzored...i had to use a huge magnet to hold the nut in the subframe...to get it back on...the ratchet trick works a lot better imho...ive broken some sway bar endlinks before follwing your method and $55 hurts a budget builder...ive never broken a thing takin the ball joints out...and you dont end up flexin the **** out of the lca...like you would in your method
</TD></TR></TABLE>thats all fine and dandy until you ovetighten the lca bolt and break the weld off the nut in the subframe...then your fuckzored...i had to use a huge magnet to hold the nut in the subframe...to get it back on...the ratchet trick works a lot better imho...ive broken some sway bar endlinks before follwing your method and $55 hurts a budget builder...ive never broken a thing takin the ball joints out...and you dont end up flexin the **** out of the lca...like you would in your method
11-05-2005, 08:34 AM
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Re: (vain)
im going to bump this because this is the best freakin method. i was banging that **** for an hour!! and it didnt break free. tried this once and it came out. much freakin props!
11-05-2005, 10:58 AM
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Re: (boostedej1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to bump this because this is the best freakin method. i was banging that **** for an hour!! and it didnt break free. tried this once and it came out. much freakin props! </TD></TR></TABLE>
same here. This method worked great.
</TD></TR></TABLE>same here. This method worked great.
11-27-2005, 03:14 PM
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Re: (CTR_ryan)
Damn, too late as a I effed up my ball joint thread . Iwill be trying this thursday or next weekend. Well, I need to do them anyways. I will be ordering a set tonight as well as out tie rod ends. When I took the tie rod ends off, the boot pretty much slithered off and fell onto the ground. I just stood there laughing 
.
Good thing I have a dialy beater. Because if I didnt.................
. Iwill be trying this thursday or next weekend. Well, I need to do them anyways. I will be ordering a set tonight as well as out tie rod ends. When I took the tie rod ends off, the boot pretty much slithered off and fell onto the ground. I just stood there laughing .Good thing I have a dialy beater. Because if I didnt.................
11-29-2005, 10:00 PM
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Re: (RalliartRsX)
My story is about the same as some others in this thread! Was trying the hammer method but just wasn't working for me...
I couldn't use my rachet handle since it is round, so I found an oldschool sidchrome 32/36 ring spanner and jammed that in there.
One jump on the brake rotor and it snapped easy. Took 2 minutes per side. One side had shock/spring and fork all in normally since I was trying to get it to "push" it off by jacking it up... Other side was shock free, so this proves that both methods work, you still have to jump on the hub either way.
10 Thumbs Up!!!
I couldn't use my rachet handle since it is round, so I found an oldschool sidchrome 32/36 ring spanner and jammed that in there.
One jump on the brake rotor and it snapped easy. Took 2 minutes per side. One side had shock/spring and fork all in normally since I was trying to get it to "push" it off by jacking it up... Other side was shock free, so this proves that both methods work, you still have to jump on the hub either way.
10 Thumbs Up!!!
01-23-2006, 07:46 AM
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I use the BFH method also but I'm going to start using the ratchet handle instead. It puts a lot less stress on the parts and looks to be considerably easier.
Props for a nice video!
Props for a nice video!
01-23-2006, 09:03 AM
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Good idea
I use a wedge shaped pry bar I found for $4.99 at a local autoparts store. Couple wacks with the hammer and it pops loose everytime. No jack needed.
I use a wedge shaped pry bar I found for $4.99 at a local autoparts store. Couple wacks with the hammer and it pops loose everytime. No jack needed.
02-12-2006, 01:11 PM
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Re: (Axle)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Axle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My guess would be that it has something to do with the firing order, intake air speed and volume quantity per given medium of time, power of the ignition based on relative length that the spark has to travel to make it to the plug, as well as factory-programmed and sensor-manipulated engine condition readings that the computer sees and changes things according to the input.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, Einstein.
Sorry, Einstein.
04-25-2006, 01:09 PM
#74
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Re: (Bailhatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The hammer method is usually the fastest for me. 2 hard hits and they pop. It does take a little more skill i guess if you can't control your hands very well or something. I have done probably 80-100 ball joints this way with no damage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have bad aim... will probably hit all around but not that area...
The hammer method is usually the fastest for me. 2 hard hits and they pop. It does take a little more skill i guess if you can't control your hands very well or something. I have done probably 80-100 ball joints this way with no damage.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have bad aim... will probably hit all around but not that area...
04-25-2006, 03:02 PM
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Re: (petrv)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petrv »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any chance to use this (or similar) method on the upper ball joint?</TD></TR></TABLE>
kinda hard for me to tell in the video..but do you hit the ratchet from the top straight down?? or is it being hit from the side, towards the center of the car??
nice vid / write up
kinda hard for me to tell in the video..but do you hit the ratchet from the top straight down?? or is it being hit from the side, towards the center of the car??
nice vid / write up