scp

please don't shoot me for being new here, I keep looking up this question I have and it keeps pointing me to this forum. Rough part is that I'm not getting a crystal clear answer so I figure I'd make a post. I've done some research on the subject already, but I can't seem to find if someone has actually done this.

I know the type r's are kind of special not only because of the motor among other reasons, but also because of the shell which seems to have some modifications that integras from the same year do not have. Handling well is just as important as having a good engine.


I found this picture, which are some of the body specs that type r has that other integras don't and just curious if anyone has tried to build a "poor man type r" starting from the body up? Not sure how much of this can be replicated in other shells of integras and this looks like the best place to ask. Slapping a type R motor inside of an another integra hardly seems to classify as a poor man type R when these body modifications contribute just as much to the car as the motor\trans do.

if someone has attempted this project, could someone provide me with a link? not getting a clean hit via the ht search nor google. could be that my search terms are wrong but I'm a noob with terminology.

NatBx

Suspension and tire plays bigger role in car handling than rigid body does. First, what are you trying to do? Build a car that handle better and faster than Type R? For what the current Type R market go for, there are a lot of cars out there that will perform better for the money. People are buying Type R because it is a Type R and its rarity. You can easily build a car that perform better than a Type R for cost of buying one. If you want an Integra that perform better than R. You take a GSR, upgrade the suspension and tire, then basic engine mods (I/H/E). If you want a Type R clone. You take a GS model, then upgrade suspension, tire, and swap the engine. If you dead set on rigid body, then by all mean, buy some carbon fiber cloths and start lining the inside of the car. Money is better spend if you put that toward suspension. Or just buy a Type R shell and starts restoring it. If you want a Type R for cheap, then just buy a salvage title Integra Type R .

CandyRedRC46

I believe the biggest and hardest to duplicate difference, is the Type-R's entire body is seam welded, instead of just the normal spot welding, among all the other things that have already been pointed out.

Rome069

Start with a rs shell as it's lighter weight (idk this for a fact, I was told that) rs doesn't have a sunroof and neither does the type r, so appearently that's lighter in weight. The type r has 5 lug suspension but the irony is that 5 lug weighs 160lbs more then regular 4 lug disk. If I remember right the hp in a itr motor is 195 hp and the transmission comes with lsd meaning limited slip differential so both wheels turn when u throw it in gear where as any other non lsd trans only one wheel launches. There are other differences cosmetically like seats and carbon faux dash pieces Ps Ur messages box is full so delete them if u ever wanna send or receive messages again

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

no

CandyRedRC46

Quote:Originally Posted by Rome069
5 lug weighs 160lbs more then regular 4 lug disk.
lol

Rome069

well that's what's some dudes who run a performance shop told me. Also I'm buying my 5 lug from a guy with a k24 tracked eg whose going to 4 lug Bc it weighs less. So I'll take the word of people who actually race over you guys who I know nothing about

NatBx

Please do some research and reading before spreading any false rumor: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/5lug-vs-4-lug-weight-difference-heres-your-answer-915556/.

Most weight will comes from rims, there are reason why lighter rims cost more. Rims is the easiest way to lost weight without stripping the cars. Calipers and rotors is another big one, bigger rotors and caliper gives better heat resistance and less brake fade, but at a price of more rotational mass. More rotational mass = more energy to move and stop. This is way most of big brake upgrade increase stopping distance. Tires size and material also plays importance role in weight, racing/sticky tire or wider tires will weight more than stock. They are many ways to shave off weight from a car and they all have its own cost. What are you willing to trade to shave off those weight. The easiest and best with out compromising too much performance are shave engine bay, you can easily lighten the car by 100lb or more by get rid of none essential components in the engine bay.

Rome069

so again I was told this and though the numbers were wrong but according to someone else weighing the spindles I guess I am only partially right, Golf clap for y'all. You guys really harping on something minor. How about we get back to what the kid was asking about the differences in the car itself

CandyRedRC46

Lets all take this moment to give Rome his highly deserved participation trophy.

Rome069

Wow I left b20 Bc I thought they were full of thieves and degenerates, came here Bc I thought this site was full of knowledgeable people and civilized enthusiasts. I guess I came to a site full of tools and dueche bags. Y'all getting on me and not helping the op with your appearent knowledge of type r's that I clearly was mis informed about Good job bruh

CandyRedRC46

We did help OP. Then you started crying because we made fun of your misinformation...
By the way, your explanation of how an LSD works, was hilariously adorable.

thewrai6th

TRUE
TRUE
TRUE

No one here appreciates misinformation. Posting incorrect specs or info like that causes other people to find and use your incorrect information as fact.

feck

Solid advice there from Nat IMHO. Never heard/thought of the carbon cloth trick(in fairness I'm slow at the best of times ). Nice idea.

But yeah, if you want a Type R, then try and source one, but mainly because it's a Type R and what that means as a collectors car. As N wrote you could spend similar money(if not less?) on building up a GSR and get as good as, if not better real world results. Again IMHO and for what that's worth, having owned both a JDM SiR(GSR) and still running a JDM Type R 98 Spec, one of the biggest differences in the real world are the gear ratios and especially the LSD. Nada to do with " both wheels turn when u throw it in gear", but makes a huge difference in corners when pushing hard. You'd want to be a near oaf to understeer an R in the dry because of it(running standard suspension).

TBH CR, I'm not doubting you, but I'm not so sure about that. The JDM only Civic EK9 R was advertised as having the full seam welding, but I've never seen "official" references to the same thing being applied to the Teg. I can say that the chassis feels far stiffer(beyond the suspension) in the R and they all seem to suffer from cracks in the welds at the rear roof channels(which may be due to the extra stiffness), so maybe?

True CR, but to be fair to Rome69, there is a lot of disinformation overheard in pubs/garages/shops about all sorts of cars. Before the interwebs, few enough of us would be actual experts. To save embarrassment I work on the general principle that in most matters I'm a dumb bastard until proven otherwise.