I am looking to get some more power from this thing but I am not interested in nitrous, turbos, or blowers. Just wondering which NA bolt-ons are effective and which are poser wallet drainers.

 

Search fastguy.
intake, header, cat, exhaust to name 4.

 

what are your hp goals? your ls motor is the limiting factor. you cannot make good power like with the vtec motors. but if your just looking to give it a liitle more kick, like the guy above me said, your basic I/H/E route first.

if you wanna keep going, cams, pistons, and if you dont plan on swapping in a vtec head, work on your head b/c the flow is not all that great in ls motors.

 

well i started with an intake, then saved money and bought a catback and then headers three years later. i still feel improvements after every integral upgrade. the last bit will be the high flow cat for me.

its all good. just plan it out if youre budget conscious like me.

 

no n/a bolt on mods are worth anyone's time.

play big or don't play at all. built motor with - Turbo, large shot of nitrous, or supercharger if you really want to be a *****.

 

i dont think the 1k minimum price tag on i/h/e (any setup worth a damn) justifies the 20hp. Lots of money, little yield.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no n/a bolt on mods are worth anyone's time.

play big or don't play at all. built motor with - Turbo, large shot of nitrous, or supercharger if you really want to be a *****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah... it takes a lot of time, money, and knowledge to get much power from an all motor honda. i know you said you aren't interested in FI, but you'll get much more power for the money from a turbo (or sc, nitrous, whatever...). your car's got a good engine for turbo.. lower compression = more room to screw up/less tuning. i'm not saying that NA can't give you good power, but i am saying that FI will get you there a lot faster and cheaper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think the 1k minimum price tag on i/h/e (any setup worth a damn) justifies the 20hp. Lots of money, little yield.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. Get a set of good tires and the BSQ Type-R rear swaybar kit instead.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no n/a bolt on mods are worth anyone's time.

play big or don't play at all. built motor with - Turbo, large shot of nitrous, or supercharger if you really want to be a *****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

honestly, my comment wasn't meant to be snide. I fully disagree with anyone that says i/h/e makes their car faster. 20horsepower is NOT faster. That makes it just more of a contender for the real world of freeway onramps as well as freeway driving (wont have to downshift to speed up for lane chagnes etc).

If you want performance Screw N/A unless you want to build a 220whp 2L b20/vtec monster (downfall is the power is only made for a split second at 8800rpm). Even a greddy turbo kit will give you the performance it appears you're looking for. A 70whp increase in horsepower from a small turbo is a good place to start, it gets your foot in the door.

slightly used rev hard kits run about ~2300 New = ~2800
slightly used greddy kits run about ~2000 w/ intercooler New = ~2600

-Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fastguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just wondering which NA bolt-ons are effective and which are poser wallet drainers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

by the way, an i/h/e setup that barely yields 16whp will cost a net of 1300+

If all you have arebolt ons, no matter what brand, THEY ALL ARE POSER WALLET DRAINERS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

by the way, an i/h/e setup that barely yields 16whp will cost a net of 1300+

If all you have arebolt ons, no matter what brand, THEY ALL ARE POSER WALLET DRAINERS.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not true for me, i got a great deals on my i/h/e. i spend total 400 on that! search around and you will find a good deal.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I have always been into cars and have had all domestics (flame if you feel the need) so this is my first foray into imports. Its actually my girlfriend's car that she commutes to work in that I am looking to wake up a little. It seems that no matter what make you are into, there always seems to be junk that newbies buy and seasoned guys say "don't buy that crap, its not worth it." So I am trying to avoid buying that stuff. When you guys say intake, are referring to the actual intake manifold or just the air cleaner/inlet assembly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fastguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you guys say intake, are referring to the actual intake manifold or just the air cleaner/inlet assembly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

intake = air filter + pipe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ggangtong81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not true for me, i got a great deals on my i/h/e. i spend total 400 on that! search around and you will find a good deal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

comptech header, tanabe exhaust, and an ebay short ram does not constitue of a 16+whp gain. i/h/e that retails for ~1300 are ones that actually make power and not just claim power. That intake is good for 1-3whp, header 2-4hp, and exhaust 2-3.

That's a max of 10whp and a minimum (realistic) of 6-7whp.

I'm talking about a jun or toda header 2.5" test pipe, J's racing intake with homemade cai extention and heat box, JIC exhaust.

 

Headers only good for 5hp? Has anyone done this on a dyno? That sounds pretty minimal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fastguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Headers only good for 5hp? Has anyone done this on a dyno? That sounds pretty minimal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, a header won't give you much power alone. especially if it leads into the stock exhaust. the stock parts are already optimized enough for the cars and putting money into replacements for them isn't worth it until they really are a bottleneck in your system, like when a turbo is introduced... then a bigger exhaust will help very much.

 

even if it does give you 30whp who cares. thats nothing. it will feel slightly faster but still give no rush whatsoever there really is no point beyond feeling better than yourself around your equally riced out friends.

 

So the feeling I'm getting from everyone is that without power adders, these motors aren't worth modding? Are the engines THAT optimized? Is it a lack of tuning after installing aftermarket parts or does the computer adapt?

 

In terms of modifying a car, everything is based upon a system depending on you where to start is your choice.
everything must work in conjunction with one another if you want to achieve maximum results

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no n/a bolt on mods are worth anyone's time.

play big or don't play at all. built motor with - Turbo, large shot of nitrous, or supercharger if you really want to be a *****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree,,, the only way i would go NA would be a fully built motor from the factory
like a ITR motor.. it's race ready and when applied in a hatch can rip up some ***.
other than that i think the all mota pride is kinda gay, i guess it's cool to have a 9 sec all motor car but i cant stand the guys that say" all mota dude" and they are running 13's and high low 12's. mean while i spent the same amount of cash as them and i'm running low 11's... this is honda's we are talking about isn't it? it's susposed to be more bang for the buck right??? but for the most part people that
buy I/H/E ,i dont think are looking to be all out racers.... i say to this guy save your money and buy a vtec motor and base your performance from there not a
LS motor...

 

Thats sort of what I figured. Most cars I have owned responded pretty well to headers, exhaust, intake and tuning. If I am going to spend $2,000 for 30HP, that seems like a waste IMHO. This is just a commuter car, not a hotrod, just seeing if there are some well known bottlenecks that could be easily remedied.