HGZ

so yesterday while on the highway my car developed a knocking noise that was pretty loud from about 2000-2500 rpms. i know i was really low on oil, so i am sure that is a big reason why the knocking started.

i have not noticed any significant loss of power at all, at least yet.

anyhow, i bought 4 quarts of oil and dumped em in there for the time being, and it seemed to quiet down the knock past 2000 rpms, but now it is still fairly audible when i rev between 2700-3200 rpms..

is it okay to drive the car like this as long as i am very gentle and do my best to keep the rpms under 2700?

i was able to drive it 15 miles to work this morning by taking surface streets and driving very gently, but how much longer will i be able to do this??

any info is greatly appreciated! thanks

JonMaltese/LScivic

lol well your engine is basically scrap if ur still driving with the knock.
if i were u when i would have heard the first knocking i would have stopped the engine right away or get home gently depending how far you lived,,
drop the oil pan, replace the spun bearings, check your oil clearances,
then your engine could have been saved... but since your driving around with a spun bearing your crank is most likely too worn out for a new bearing of standard size, now ur gonna have to take the crank out get it redone and get all oversized bearings( rods,mains). consdidering there are bearing shards everywhere in the motor,otherbearings, oil pump. buy a new engine if u can

HGZ

if i had money to buy a new engine, the car would be in the shop now lol..

but unfortunately i have zero money right now and im supposed to be moving into my first apt in sept. this couldn't have come at a worse time.

anyhow, so basically you're saying i won't be able to drive it much longer even if i keep the rpms low, right?

projectTeG

look the best advise i can give if you dont want to rebuild, is to drop the pan. and slid in some new bearings. just get the bearing codes from the block and crank. but really you should rebuild you lost a bearing.

HGZ

i plan to completely replace the engine, i just can't do it right now since im broke.

i don't really have the time or space to drop the pan or inspect/replace the bearings either..

so i am just wondering how much longer do you guys think i can drive like this as long as i am gentle?? a few days? maybe a few weeks? a month? the knock doesnt seem to be getting worse yet, but when it does i will definitely stop driving it.

in the meantime i am searching for a beater to get me around, but until then all i have is my teg.

JonMaltese/LScivic

i would say maybe a week if you baby it like crazy,, but not any longer... there is now no oil pressure in the rest of the engine since the bearing is ****ed..

HGZ

fuuuuuuuuu..

well hopefully i can find a nice beater in the next week or so. thanks for the help and info!!

OrangeTeggy

My car had the same problem, It started knocked around 3k though. I dont member what was wrong with it but I ended up selling old motor for cheap and saved bought another

HGZ

lol ok sorry man now i feel like such a noob. i talked to my gf's dad and he explained to me how easy sliding in new bearings can be, so i might just try it. hopefully it will last me at least another 6 months. after researching it further i guess its worth a shot.

low91rex

Yeah as long as you stop running it and replace those bearings it should give you a little more time to save for a swap. Its not gonna be perfect though, think your bearings are worn down so is your crank. putting new bearings in is only a temporary fix just dont drive it too hard because they will wear right back down. good luck with every thing

DC206R

iTrader: (1)

so it knocks at 3k and then goes away? or stays all the way up.

HGZ

yeah its only when i get between about 2700 and 3200 to really hear it. then it seems the knocking gets more or less audible the closer or further you are to that range. but i haven't really tried to rev it too hard since i've started hearing it, so im not too sure what it sounds like anywhere past 4K.

also as i have been reading about this more and more, i also read someone had an issue where they would kinda hear a knocking noise when they start the car cold but it completely goes away after a few seconds and that it could be piston slap? my car has also been doing that for the past few years i think if that means anything..

anyhow i plan on dropping the pan this weekend and ill see if i can get some pics.

crxstylin

my accord wagon has had that knock since i bought it for $1000 4 years ago. It is a knock between 2500 and 3000 and I have put 75,000 miles on it since. I dont even drive it lightly, i floor it all the time. I cannot believe it has not gone out yet.

ALLxMOTOR EG

It should be the bearing and the crank that is worn down.

xantavar

uhhh...the knocking isn't the least of your worries...

if you did indeed spin a rod bearing, metallic flakes have already entered the oil system. call it all scrap.

continue to drive it at your own risk. i've seen a spun rod bearing on a d16, not a pretty sight

HGZ

ok i just dropped the oil pan. metal shavings everywhere. ok not EVERYWHERE, but enough to be like holy crap that can't be good. it straight looked i was using an oil pan to pan for gold in the river lmao! i wish i had a camera but my gf has it with her right now and my phone is being stupid and wont let me email or bluetooth phone pics.

anyhow i proceeded to check the rod bearings on the outer rods and they looked fine. just a little bit of wear as normal. so i turned the crank to access the other two and when i went back under there i saw that one of the two inner rods (the one closest to the driver side wheel) was all black whereas the other three were normal brown oil-colored looking. i figured that one must be the culprit!

so i took off the rod cap, but to my surprise, the bearings weren't spun and they even had the retainer tabs still in place and intact, but the bearings were pretty worn and there are definitely visual signs of wear on the crank journal.

the bearing on the cap looked worn, but when i rolled the other half of the bearing from the rod that is where i saw the most wear and can see a copper surface has been revealed and when i put both halves side by side i saw that one of the halves looked a tiny bit "squished" and i can tell the sides of the bearing were sort of flared outward a bit.

has anyone ever seen that before?? a bearing that looked squished/mashed/sides flaring outward?

could this mean something worse could be wrong? seeing as how it was squished i can now see how there would be mad oil clearance between the bearing and journal. i wonder if this squished bearing could be the reason for my piston slap when starting the car cold??

John M

you drove on it after you heard the knock. that is why it looks the way it does.

nastycobra

get on craglist find a used b18 then go to sears buy a tool kit do some research and learn how to put it in that is the best thing i know what to do but i would drive it till it throws the rod or doesnt move anymore

racebum

you might be able to save it. run your finger along the crank journal and in the rods when they come out. as long as you don't feel any scars it will probably save with new bearings. heat rash is no big deal. if you feel jagged anything you will need another crank or to turn yours. very very light scratching can polish out by the way

integra3586

in for results, i gotta do the same thing

JonMaltese/LScivic

good luck bro just make sure you dont have any dirt or oil between the rod , and rod cap and the bearing, the backside of the bearing has to be dryyy.. ive saved 2 engines with rod knock, one in a teggy and one in a chrysler intrepid lol except it is known to be a temporary fix..

JonMaltese/LScivic

the thrust washers can be tricky also make sure u put them on correctly,,,, once everything is bolted back up fill with oil and prime the oil pump ( remove ignition fuse and crank until oil light goes off) then start your engine!! haha u should be good to go!

95DC2GS-R

Take a look at this thread.. http://www.floridahondacrew.com/showthread.php?t=9896

Refer to this chart for beaing colors/codes. You will have numbers on the rod and rod cap, as well as numbers or bars on the crank.





Dimensions:

Main Bearing Set
2.013-2.010 mm 0.0793"-0.0791"
2.010-2.007 mm 0.0791"-0.0790"
2.007-2.004 mm 0.0790"-0.0789"
2.004-2.001 mm 0.0789"-0.0788"
2.001-1.998 mm 0.0788"-0.0787"
1.998-1.995 mm 0.0787"-0.0785"
1.995-1.922 mm 0.0785"-0.0757"

Conrod Bearing Set
1.510-1.507 mm 0.0594"-0.0593"
1.507-1.504 mm 0.0593"-0.0592"
1.504-1.501 mm 0.0592"-0.0591"
1.501-1.498 mm 0.0591"-0.0590"
1.498-1.495 mm 0.0590"-0.0589"
1.495-1.492 mm 0.0589"-0.0587"
1.492-1.489 mm 0.0587"-0.0586"

Here are the Part Numbers from Honda:

Main upper bearings (B16A, B18C, B18B, B20)
13321-PR3-004 BLUE
13322-PR3-004 BLACK
13323-PR3-004 BROWN
13324-PR3-004 GREEN
13325-PR3-004 YELLOW
13326-PR3-004 PINK
13327-PR3-004 RED

Main lower bearings (B16A, B18C, B18B, B20)
13341-PR3-004 BLUE
13342-PR3-004 BLACK
13343-PR3-004 BROWN
13344-PR3-004 GREEN
13345-PR3-004 YELLOW
13346-PR3-004 PINK
13347-PR3-004 RED

B18A/B18B/B20 Rod bearings
13211-PR4-A02 BLUE
13212-PR4-A02 BLACK
13213-PR4-A02 BROWN
13214-PR4-A02 GREEN
13215-PR4-A02 YELLOW
13216-PR4-A02 PINK
13217-PR4-A02 RED

GSR/ITR Rod bearings
13211-P72-003 BLUE
13212-P72-003 BLACK
13213-P72-003 BROWN
13214-P72-003 GREEN
13215-P72-003 YELLOW
13216-P72-003 PINK
13217-P72-003 RED

B16A/B17A Rod bearings
13211-P30-003 BLUE
13212-P30-003 BLACK
13213-P30-003 BROWN
13214-P30-003 GREEN
13215-P30-003 YELLOW
13216-P30-003 PINK
13217-P30-003 RED

HGZ

okay well the operation went pretty smoothly. she is back up and running with NO KNOCKING!

i took a series of pics, but i'll put them up tomorrow. in the meantime, here are two pics of the bearings up close so you can see how they looked:

you can see which one was "squished" lol


here is the wear up close. you can see the copper underneath was showing. dude look at how the bearing flared outwards! i guess its better than actually spinning a bearing



full update tomorrow! i need a beer

HGZ

quick evening update:

so i have taken the car out two times since the fix, and both times i turned left out from my street i noticed a sort of light 'clacking'. if i had to guess i would say it was the valves, but i don't know for sure.

the weird thing is, i only heard it after pulling out of my neighborhood, then right afterward i didn't really hear it at all. it almost sounds like something that isn't lubricated at first gets lubricated after i turn left onto a street then is fine after that.

when i first started her up after the fix i did listen to the engine idle for a minute or two and i could swear i heard a louder clicking/ticking going on that im not used to and if i had to bet my money on where it was coming from i would say it was the head! piston slap? valves need adjustment now? i guess we will see.. maybe i should get a stethoscope.

more pics tomorrow!