Bigmo5328

Having issues with my teg. Won't turn over lights come on system powers on but when I turn key all I get is a click. Alternator replaced almost a year ago with a higher amp alternator. Starter replaced 3 days after it stopped working and I just replaced main relay as I was having issues with that last year. I'm out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

MegP

How old is battery?

Bigmo5328

Replaced same time as alternator..... I read that it could have enough power to turn radio on but not turn over the car.... But I have a system hooked up would it still be able to power that but not start the car?

SpokaneSpeed

Get a multimeter and test battery voltage first..

Bigmo5328

Copy that I'll yank battery and have it tested. Having it towed to the house over the weekend so I can do more work on it....Any ideas if the battery comes back good ?

SpokaneSpeed

U don't need to pull the battery just to test voltage... all you need to do is connect a multimeter to the terminals and verify that you have at least 12v.

Bigmo5328

cool ill stop by autozone in the morning after work and grab one ......Tried to jump it while on break at work and still no crank

SpokaneSpeed

Next thing to test is the signal wire at the starter. Verify you're getting 12v there once the ignition is turned to "start"

supersilverdc2

Sounds like starter to me...

try tapping on it with a baseball bat lightly and starting it at same time...


Make sure your grounds and hot wires to starter are tight.....


My 2 cents

Bigmo5328

Signal Wire to starter up next will report back once I get the multimeter in the morning......new starter so no issues there not even 2 days old

Skip814

Load check your battery. The battery can be bad and still
show 12 volts with a multimeter. If the battery is shorted
internally you can not jump start the vehicle.

Bigmo5328

Update :work has been hectic, yanked battery out dropped it off at autozone tested good but needed charging.... Picked up multimeter gonna be fun learning how to use it..... Will check out voltages tomorrow before class update what I find then

09chaplak

Check the connection at the B terminal. Mine was loose and would cause a no start with that click at the starter. Tighten that up and check the S terminal while you're in there. See if it starts then.

Bigmo5328

Any pics of what you speak of? Forgive my ignorance not really a car person. But also an update....picked up battery fully charged still getting just the click when I turn the key...Picked up one of those fancy multimeters load test 12 v ...will check wires to starter when I go on break.

MegP

Have to try to tap your starter? Let someone hit your starter few times and you try to start the car. It' s a cheap diagnosis.

SpokaneSpeed

Don't waste time banging on ****, just test it...

On your starter, there is a single wire coming off the harness connecting to the starter solenoid. Pull it off and put your black lead from the multimeter on the battery negative terminal and the red lead on the end of the wire that was connected to the starter solenoid... turn ur meter on and select DC Volts.. have someone turn the key to the START position, you should see at least 12.00v displayed on your multimeter.

Report results of this test.

Bigmo5328

*Brand New* Starter .....no need for banging on it lol. Just ran out on break and tested Starter wire ....12v is what I get. Any fuses I should be looking out for I would hope I dont have to do the tedious task of pulling out every single fuse to see if they are shot.. so now that test is done whats up next ? Been trying to research this problem last few days and some said something about a neutral safety switch or something with the clutch? Could that cause an issue. I had replaced the clutch little over less then a year ago and about a month ago in what seemed like a 2 day span it went from shift fine to one day it wouldn't go in gear. Had to turn car off put it in first and then start it and go......a day later it wouldn't go into gear at all. Went and adjusted the cable for the pedal play and its been working nicely since then. Didn't think nothing of it then but idk running out of ideas. On that note of it maybe being an idea, while I was outside i played with the clutch putting it in gear and seems everything works like its supposed to could hit 1-5 no problems couldnt put in reverse without using clutch ....of course this is all without the car running....and forgive me if what im saying is completely useless just throwing out as much information as I can......miss cruising in my baby

SpokaneSpeed

Just to confirm, u tested the small solenoid wire correct? Not the large gauge power wire, right?? The large power wire is directly connected to the battery so it always sees 12v. The small starter solenoid wire delivers 12v from ignition thru relays and into the starter solenoid to engage the starter itself, when key is turned to start.

Ok now put the black lead on the negative and red lead on the starter power wire. You should also see at least 12v. If you have 12v, set the multimeter to ohms and put one lead on the battery positive terminal and one lead on the starter power wire. What is the reading?

It sounds like you have a bad starter. All the wiring and relays are doing their job by sending 12v to starter solenoid. If the starter isn't engaging, it's either bad or not getting power from the battery to engage it. Just because it's new doesn't mean its good - with today's manufacturing there are constantly new in box parts that fail.

billabongrob

iTrader: (1)

Jump the two posts on the starter with a wire and see if it turns over. Try not to mess your pants when/if it does. If that works, that rules out the starter. If it does, then you'll want to check out that clutch interlock switch. That can be bypassed with a paper clip or wire temporarily.

Open the fuse box under the hood, looks like an E missing the middle leg, in case you didn't know. There should be two wires running into the leg of the fuse box closest to the headlights. Check the big lower fuses and see if one is popped.

I just went through reconfiguring my starting/charging system. I'd recommend downloading the manual and checking it out. The troubleshooting flowcharts are fantastic. Manuals - Downloads - Hondahookup.com

Bigmo5328

So I did do it wrong thanks for the explanation the signal wire is not reading 12v when in the on position

SpokaneSpeed

I didn't say ON position, I said START position. It won't have 12v until u turn the ignition to START.

Bigmo5328

My apologies start position is what I meant

Bigmo5328

Heres the Multimeter I am using hopefully I used it correctly.





Battery Situation. 12V across all three positive wires. Connected multimeter negative lead to negative battery cable and positive lead to all three positive wires. Multimeter had DC funtion and Load test function used both.





Heres the wires I have going to the starter. Now originally if I have them labeled correctly I had done it wrong. But I went back and re did the voltage test and no voltage.





Heres me inserting the positive lead into what I believe is the signal wire. Correct me if im wrong?





Heres the votalge results meter showing 17.3 mV .....





Heres me doing that Ohm test....which was probably pointless with no Voltage coming in but figured id get the practice .....First time using multimeter.





Heres the results ....Negative lead into signal wire positive lead into positive battery. 0.00 Resistance




I did with the car off and the key turned to the start position and results were the same.

Bigmo5328

Is this the clutch interlock switch? This was directly above the clutch

Bigmo5328

This was the wire that was plugged in, I get no voltage from the what I am studying is the positive connection with or without the clutch pressed down and with or without the car in start position