Mobil 1 or castrol
12-12-2003, 12:42 PM
#26
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Reston, VA, USA
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No doubt. My high mileage LS has a the bad cam seal problem. Thanks a millions NightRider for pointing our the STR.
I unknowingly switched to Synth from Dino and after a few K miles, I've got a bleeder for a cam seal.
For $30 that a smart investment. I kind of dread the install though.(not knowing what's required) Time to read the Helms...
I unknowingly switched to Synth from Dino and after a few K miles, I've got a bleeder for a cam seal.
For $30 that a smart investment. I kind of dread the install though.(not knowing what's required) Time to read the Helms...
12-12-2003, 10:09 PM
#27
In-N-Out Burger
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: 1320ft OC LA, XX, USA
Posts: 5,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (acuraholic)
I will get back to my post and continue at it....
So I can answer your questions and such..., just to warn you guys, when I post about what I know backed up with research, its usually long so prepare to read.
NRG
So I can answer your questions and such..., just to warn you guys, when I post about what I know backed up with research, its usually long so prepare to read.
NRG
12-13-2003, 06:44 AM
#30
Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Formerly pdcdragon, CA, US
Posts: 3,416
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (AkiraLite)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AkiraLite »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No doubt. My high mileage LS has a the bad cam seal problem. Thanks a millions NightRider for pointing our the STR.
I unknowingly switched to Synth from Dino and after a few K miles, I've got a bleeder for a cam seal.
For $30 that a smart investment. I kind of dread the install though.(not knowing what's required) Time to read the Helms...</TD></TR></TABLE>
and
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oMekoneDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just orderd a new cam seal off eaby. i just noticed mine leaking and i aint dealing with that crap. </TD></TR></TABLE>
PUtting in a new cam seal is not all that difficult. But if u want some help... go to my website... n see what's involved(linked in my sig). Just go to the "DIY" section and go to cam seal.
As for which oil is better between the two... i've been using mobil1 and been pretty happy with it, but know that plenty of people use the castrol. I doubt you'll notice any difference in driving between teh two, but hey some of these guys are sayin it burns less so that may be what u want. However, i think that as long as you perform your oil changes regularly, it all really inconsequential.
I unknowingly switched to Synth from Dino and after a few K miles, I've got a bleeder for a cam seal.
For $30 that a smart investment. I kind of dread the install though.(not knowing what's required) Time to read the Helms...</TD></TR></TABLE>
and
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oMekoneDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just orderd a new cam seal off eaby. i just noticed mine leaking and i aint dealing with that crap. </TD></TR></TABLE>
PUtting in a new cam seal is not all that difficult. But if u want some help... go to my website... n see what's involved(linked in my sig). Just go to the "DIY" section and go to cam seal.
As for which oil is better between the two... i've been using mobil1 and been pretty happy with it, but know that plenty of people use the castrol. I doubt you'll notice any difference in driving between teh two, but hey some of these guys are sayin it burns less so that may be what u want. However, i think that as long as you perform your oil changes regularly, it all really inconsequential.
12-15-2003, 01:45 PM
#31
In-N-Out Burger
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: 1320ft OC LA, XX, USA
Posts: 5,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (acuraholic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by acuraholic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NightRider-gsR...isn't it true that there's Castrol Syntec as well as Castrol Syntec Blend? I've seen both where I've purchased oil. I've always used the Syntec, not the Syntec Blend. I don't see how the oil could only be sold in blended form and sold for about $.50 more per quart than fully synthetic Mobil1. Maybe I'm wrong. As far as the burning being indicative of bad seals, I doubt it. I noticed burning with Mobil1 when my GSR had as few as 10k on the clock. Bad seals at 10k miles is unheard of.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes its true. Castrol Syntec is claimed fully synthetic, whereas Castrol Syntec Blend is a blend of synthetic conventional oil and SYNTEC molecular components.
Don't believe Castrol's claim that their Syntec version, not Syntec Blend is fully synthetic. Mobil 1 is a true (fully) synthetic oil. Castrol Syntec however, is manufactured from petroleum. They (Castrol) can legally call it a synthetic, but I wouldn't, nor would I use it when I have access to real synthetic oils.
Anyways, castrol Syntec Blend should be cheaper than Mobil1 SuperSyn. So which Castrol version is better? If you want the benefits of full synthetic then go for Castrol Syntec. If your pocket is tight but still want similar benefits, then the other version is worth it.
When I speak of seals, I mean cam plug seal, oil pan gasket seal, worn head gasket seal, etc. It doesn't really matter how much mileage you've had with your engine, if its been driven hard---then most likely it will be the seals.
NRG
Modified by NightRider-gsR at 3:29 PM 12/15/2003
Yes its true. Castrol Syntec is claimed fully synthetic, whereas Castrol Syntec Blend is a blend of synthetic conventional oil and SYNTEC molecular components.
Don't believe Castrol's claim that their Syntec version, not Syntec Blend is fully synthetic. Mobil 1 is a true (fully) synthetic oil. Castrol Syntec however, is manufactured from petroleum. They (Castrol) can legally call it a synthetic, but I wouldn't, nor would I use it when I have access to real synthetic oils.
Anyways, castrol Syntec Blend should be cheaper than Mobil1 SuperSyn. So which Castrol version is better? If you want the benefits of full synthetic then go for Castrol Syntec. If your pocket is tight but still want similar benefits, then the other version is worth it.
When I speak of seals, I mean cam plug seal, oil pan gasket seal, worn head gasket seal, etc. It doesn't really matter how much mileage you've had with your engine, if its been driven hard---then most likely it will be the seals.
NRG
Modified by NightRider-gsR at 3:29 PM 12/15/2003
12-15-2003, 02:04 PM
#32
In-N-Out Burger
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: 1320ft OC LA, XX, USA
Posts: 5,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (NightRider-gsR)
To continue my article...(take a deep breath and prepare to read 
)
Let's clear up a few ?s, myths, make-believes and what not.
Some people mix dino oil with conventional oil, is that OK?:
Yes, it's OK to mix mineral and synthetic oils.
In the past, synthetic oils once contained Polyalkylene Glycol. If mixed with conventional oil, it would form a gel-like substance, which is definitely not good. This use has been discontinued. Currently, all common synthetics used for engine lubrication are a Polyalphaolefin (Mobil 1) or a Dibasic Organic Ester type (AMSOIL).
These are fully compatable with conventional oils. In fact Golden Spectro and AGIP Sint 2000 are mixtures of mineral and synthetic oils. It is always best to
mix oils with the same rating (SG). This insures that the additive packages are compatable and will maintain their effectiveness.
Let's break down engine oils a bit:
All engine oils use an organic Zinc compound as an extreme pressure/anti wear additive. Spectro adds more to their Motorcycle oil than to the car oil because Zinc is a poison to catalytic converters. You will also see that some "car" oil contains morethan their motorcycle oil.
The difference in Zinc content between .11% and .16% is insignificant to the converter. Data research has shown that oils packaged by the motorcycle manufacturers indicated that they were no better than the top automotive oils. However, most were good but they didn't offer anything than cheaper oils do. (They are in reality just repackaged and in some cases slightly reformulated top grade auto oils).
BEGIN ARTICLE
-----------------------------------------
The following is an article by Ed Hackett: A really good article…if you have time to read, then READ IT!
Cliff Notes:
This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash,
and % zinc.
Ed Hackett
edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu
The Desert Research Institute
Reno, Nevada (702) 673-7380
Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in discussions between motor heads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than the advertising hype.
Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This
information is available to the public through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data base.
This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash,
and % zinc.
Viscosity is the measure of how thick oil is. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. Oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at
high rpm.
The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use.
The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to their S.A.E. assigned numbers. The relationship of gear oils to engine oils is also shown.
__________________________________________________ _____________
| |
| SAE Gear Viscosity Number |
| __________________________________________________ ______ |
| |75W |80W |85W| 90 | 140 | |
| |____|_____|___|______________|___________________ _____| |
| |
| SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number |
| ____________________________ |
| |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | |
| |__|_____|____|_____|______| |
__________________________________________________ ____________
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C
Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base(5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20-weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers(synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are
appropriate for your vehicle.
Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a
relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown.
Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better.
400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F.
Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by
a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F.
% sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content.
% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal-to-metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air-cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal-to-metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.
All of the oils above meet current SG/CD ratings and all vehicle manufacture's warranty requirements in the proper viscosity. All are "good enough", but those with the better numbers are icing on the cake.
The more expensive synthetics; AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Spectro offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application.
The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers(typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies(up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty, you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics.
Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the vehicle's requirements. Some of these additives are synergistic,
that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect of each acting separately. If you add anything to the oil, you may upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to
specification.
The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining what makes a top quality oil. The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and quantity of additives used are very important. The given data combined with the manufacturers claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the oil among others who use it should help you make an informed choice.
-----------------------------------------
END OF ARTICLE
NRG
)Let's clear up a few ?s, myths, make-believes and what not.
Some people mix dino oil with conventional oil, is that OK?:
Yes, it's OK to mix mineral and synthetic oils.
In the past, synthetic oils once contained Polyalkylene Glycol. If mixed with conventional oil, it would form a gel-like substance, which is definitely not good. This use has been discontinued. Currently, all common synthetics used for engine lubrication are a Polyalphaolefin (Mobil 1) or a Dibasic Organic Ester type (AMSOIL).
These are fully compatable with conventional oils. In fact Golden Spectro and AGIP Sint 2000 are mixtures of mineral and synthetic oils. It is always best to
mix oils with the same rating (SG). This insures that the additive packages are compatable and will maintain their effectiveness.
Let's break down engine oils a bit:
All engine oils use an organic Zinc compound as an extreme pressure/anti wear additive. Spectro adds more to their Motorcycle oil than to the car oil because Zinc is a poison to catalytic converters. You will also see that some "car" oil contains morethan their motorcycle oil.
The difference in Zinc content between .11% and .16% is insignificant to the converter. Data research has shown that oils packaged by the motorcycle manufacturers indicated that they were no better than the top automotive oils. However, most were good but they didn't offer anything than cheaper oils do. (They are in reality just repackaged and in some cases slightly reformulated top grade auto oils).
BEGIN ARTICLE
-----------------------------------------
The following is an article by Ed Hackett: A really good article…if you have time to read, then READ IT!
Cliff Notes:
This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash,
and % zinc.
Ed Hackett
edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu
The Desert Research Institute
Reno, Nevada (702) 673-7380
Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in discussions between motor heads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than the advertising hype.
Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This
information is available to the public through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data base.
This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash,
and % zinc.
Viscosity is the measure of how thick oil is. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. Oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at
high rpm.
The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use.
The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to their S.A.E. assigned numbers. The relationship of gear oils to engine oils is also shown.
__________________________________________________ _____________
| |
| SAE Gear Viscosity Number |
| __________________________________________________ ______ |
| |75W |80W |85W| 90 | 140 | |
| |____|_____|___|______________|___________________ _____| |
| |
| SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number |
| ____________________________ |
| |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | |
| |__|_____|____|_____|______| |
__________________________________________________ ____________
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42
viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C
Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base(5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20-weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers(synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some threaten to void warranties if it is used. It was not included in this article for that reason. 20W-50 is the same 30 point spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job. AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30. Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are
appropriate for your vehicle.
Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range. Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a
relatively large change. The higher the number the better. This is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy. These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range. It is not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown.
Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better.
400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F.
Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by
a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F.
% sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content.
% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal-to-metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air-cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal-to-metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.
All of the oils above meet current SG/CD ratings and all vehicle manufacture's warranty requirements in the proper viscosity. All are "good enough", but those with the better numbers are icing on the cake.
The more expensive synthetics; AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Spectro offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application.
The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers(typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies(up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty, you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics.
Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the vehicle's requirements. Some of these additives are synergistic,
that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect of each acting separately. If you add anything to the oil, you may upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to
specification.
The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining what makes a top quality oil. The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and quantity of additives used are very important. The given data combined with the manufacturers claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the oil among others who use it should help you make an informed choice.
-----------------------------------------
END OF ARTICLE
NRG
12-15-2003, 02:17 PM
#33
In-N-Out Burger
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: 1320ft OC LA, XX, USA
Posts: 5,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (NightRider-gsR)
This is MORE INTERESTING since it compares Mobil1 vs Catrol Synthetic oil.
Here's some accumulated data from a local oil distributor. It is the update on the new Mobil 1 formulation and that for the new Castrol Syntec. They did not have the numbers for the new Valvoline synthetics yet. The data on the new Mobil 1 is pretty impressive. Based on these numbers, price, and availability, there is little need to look further for a synthetic oil.
The Syntec seems to be compromised by it's wide viscosity range. Notice that the pour point is for all practical purposes, no better than the Mobil 1 15W-50 (actually, it's not as good). While, meeting the viscosity parameters, the wide range is probably for marketing purposes. The Mobil 1 15W-50 will pump at -35 degrees F, which is as good as some conventional 5W-30 oils.
Any of the ester based synthetics (AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Syntec), will give you the benefits that Castrol is making a big deal of in their advertising. The ability to cling to metal walls is due to the polar nature of the ester base stock, not something unique to Castrol's formulation.
The Data:
Brand and Weight----VI-----Flash----Pour-----%ash-----%zinc
Syntec 5W-50--------180.....437.......-49........1.2..........0.10
Mobil 1 5W-30-------165.....445.......-65.........---..........---
--------10W-30-------160.....450.......-65.........---..........---
--------15W-50-------170.....470.......-55.........---..........---
If you guys don't understand what the categories mean, please refer to the previous article above by Ed Hackett.
NRG
Here's some accumulated data from a local oil distributor. It is the update on the new Mobil 1 formulation and that for the new Castrol Syntec. They did not have the numbers for the new Valvoline synthetics yet. The data on the new Mobil 1 is pretty impressive. Based on these numbers, price, and availability, there is little need to look further for a synthetic oil.
The Syntec seems to be compromised by it's wide viscosity range. Notice that the pour point is for all practical purposes, no better than the Mobil 1 15W-50 (actually, it's not as good). While, meeting the viscosity parameters, the wide range is probably for marketing purposes. The Mobil 1 15W-50 will pump at -35 degrees F, which is as good as some conventional 5W-30 oils.
Any of the ester based synthetics (AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Syntec), will give you the benefits that Castrol is making a big deal of in their advertising. The ability to cling to metal walls is due to the polar nature of the ester base stock, not something unique to Castrol's formulation.
The Data:
Brand and Weight----VI-----Flash----Pour-----%ash-----%zinc
Syntec 5W-50--------180.....437.......-49........1.2..........0.10
Mobil 1 5W-30-------165.....445.......-65.........---..........---
--------10W-30-------160.....450.......-65.........---..........---
--------15W-50-------170.....470.......-55.........---..........---
If you guys don't understand what the categories mean, please refer to the previous article above by Ed Hackett.
NRG
12-15-2003, 10:46 PM
#36
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bad Newz Kennels
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (NightRider-gsR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any of the ester based synthetics (AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Syntec)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
FALSE.
the majority base stock used in AMSOIL and Mobil 1 are called polyalphaolefins. AMOSIL uses a small percentage of esters but not enough to be categorized as "ester based". And all castrol syntec except one is made from hydrocracked dino oil. you can believe ed hackett or you can search for the truth about oils here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
FALSE.
the majority base stock used in AMSOIL and Mobil 1 are called polyalphaolefins. AMOSIL uses a small percentage of esters but not enough to be categorized as "ester based". And all castrol syntec except one is made from hydrocracked dino oil. you can believe ed hackett or you can search for the truth about oils here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi.
12-16-2003, 12:07 PM
#37
In-N-Out Burger
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: 1320ft OC LA, XX, USA
Posts: 5,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (ejprimo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
FALSE.
the majority base stock used in AMSOIL and Mobil 1 are called polyalphaolefins. AMOSIL uses a small percentage of esters but not enough to be categorized as "ester based". And all castrol syntec except one is made from hydrocracked dino oil. you can believe ed hackett or you can search for the truth about oils here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Currently, all common synthetics used for engine lubrication are a Polyalphaolefin (Mobil 1) or a Dibasic Organic Ester type (AMSOIL).---that was my own post...then I posted Ed hacketts. Well thank you for clearing anything up.
NRG
FALSE.
the majority base stock used in AMSOIL and Mobil 1 are called polyalphaolefins. AMOSIL uses a small percentage of esters but not enough to be categorized as "ester based". And all castrol syntec except one is made from hydrocracked dino oil. you can believe ed hackett or you can search for the truth about oils here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Currently, all common synthetics used for engine lubrication are a Polyalphaolefin (Mobil 1) or a Dibasic Organic Ester type (AMSOIL).---that was my own post...then I posted Ed hacketts. Well thank you for clearing anything up.
NRG
12-16-2003, 06:51 PM
#38
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bad Newz Kennels
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (NightRider-gsR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NightRider-gsR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Currently, all common synthetics used for engine lubrication are a Polyalphaolefin (Mobil 1) or a Dibasic Organic Ester type (AMSOIL).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Amsoil like all common synthetics are made from PAO's, otherwise known as a group IV base stock.
http://www.pecuniary.com/faq/oil-base-stock.html
"AMSOIL Synthetic Oil base stock is Polyalphaolefins (PAOs) with a small amount of ester to help control seal swell"
Currently, all common synthetics used for engine lubrication are a Polyalphaolefin (Mobil 1) or a Dibasic Organic Ester type (AMSOIL).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Amsoil like all common synthetics are made from PAO's, otherwise known as a group IV base stock.
http://www.pecuniary.com/faq/oil-base-stock.html
"AMSOIL Synthetic Oil base stock is Polyalphaolefins (PAOs) with a small amount of ester to help control seal swell"
12-16-2003, 07:29 PM
#39
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SoCal 626, USA
Posts: 326
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (pdcdragon)
I use Mobil 1 5w-30 fully synthetic in my car. This is the blue stuff 
I have about 50k on my car and have not had any oil consumption probs. MOBIL 1 ! down side is the price, but synthetic seals better cause it clings to moving parts even after the car is off. My car starts up well even in pretty cold weather in CA.
I have about 50k on my car and have not had any oil consumption probs. MOBIL 1 ! down side is the price, but synthetic seals better cause it clings to moving parts even after the car is off. My car starts up well even in pretty cold weather in CA.
12-16-2003, 11:39 PM
#40
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Tacoma, wa, USA
Posts: 616
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (DC4 teg)
funny posting by 'len' [No, I'm being dead serious. You guys sit here and make random mumblings on which oil is better. Debates rages on for several pages. It's oil for crying out loud. Does it really matter? I haven't changed my oil in my car for 5,500 miles now. Brand new motor. Still running. Who gives a flying pile of dung? Chances are you're either gonna mis-shift and blow it up eventually, tear it down and rebuild it prematurely, or get your car stolen. So what difference does it make?......
.....
Back to the oil thing. Who cares what oil filter you use? It's an oil filter. As long as it filters, who cares? If it fits and it's the one for your car, put it on. Change your oil. Have your mom watch you change your oil. Hell have your entire neighborhood over for an oil change party. Change your oil and STFU.] just read that so might as well post it up..
I always use Mobile1 10w-40, but yesterday i used 15w-50 an I'm paranoid that it's not good for the gsr motor... 
oh well im a shitbag..
.....
Back to the oil thing. Who cares what oil filter you use? It's an oil filter. As long as it filters, who cares? If it fits and it's the one for your car, put it on. Change your oil. Have your mom watch you change your oil. Hell have your entire neighborhood over for an oil change party. Change your oil and STFU.] just read that so might as well post it up..
I always use Mobile1 10w-40, but yesterday i used 15w-50 an I'm paranoid that it's not good for the gsr motor... oh well im a shitbag..
12-17-2003, 01:28 AM
#41
In-N-Out Burger
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: 1320ft OC LA, XX, USA
Posts: 5,424
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (fu*kfaceC1EH2)
I posted because they asked...end of story.
If you don't feel like reading, don't read. No one's forcing you. It's ok to opinionate/debate, whatever the **** you want.
NRG
If you don't feel like reading, don't read. No one's forcing you. It's ok to opinionate/debate, whatever the **** you want.
NRG
12-17-2003, 10:06 AM
#42
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bad Newz Kennels
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (NightRider-gsR)
fuckface, you being a self-admitted shitbag hasnt contributed anything to this thread. if you want to be left in the dark on the motor oil issue, then thats fine with me.
12-17-2003, 04:31 PM
#44
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (oMekoneDC2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oMekoneDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what your saying is thats its on to use 15w-50 moble1 since my car eats up 10w-30 like its breakfast?</TD></TR></TABLE>
???? anyone?
???? anyone?
12-17-2003, 08:38 PM
#46
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: PASADENA, CA
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Mobil 1 or castrol (ejprimo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejprimo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if honda oem motor oil is mobil ONE motor oil then, why doesnt everyone head over to their dealership and buy honda oil for $2.90/qt. instead of paying $4.99/qt. for mobil 1 at their local auto parts store.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I do, but it's $1.98 a quart here. I switched from castrol gtx 10w30 to oem mobil 5w/30 and oil feels thicker after hard driving - no bullshit
That's what I do, but it's $1.98 a quart here. I switched from castrol gtx 10w30 to oem mobil 5w/30 and oil feels thicker after hard driving - no bullshit
12-17-2003, 10:17 PM
#48
12-17-2003, 10:38 PM
#49
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: PASADENA, CA
Posts: 399
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Mobil 1 or castrol (oMekoneDC2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oMekoneDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honda oem oil is moble1 syn? i highly doubt this. any proff? if it is im gona go buy a few cases </TD></TR></TABLE>
Just conventional
Just conventional
12-17-2003, 11:17 PM
#50
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Bad Newz Kennels
Posts: 2,156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Mobil 1 or castrol (oMekoneDC2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oMekoneDC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honda oem oil is moble1 syn? i highly doubt this. any proff? if it is im gona go buy a few cases </TD></TR></TABLE>
i was being sarcastic in my previous post. i was trying to say that why would honda sell Mobil ONE for a cheaper price than it actually retails for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kendogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ejprimo always laying down his knowledge on oils and filters
haha seriously I see you participating in every oil / filter thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks. im just trying to help my fellow h-tr's choose their motor oil wisely. i just take what i learn from bobistheoilguy.com and relay it to you guys. most people tend to think motor oil is simply motor oil, but that is not the case. some motor oils are better than others. what NightRider-gsR posted earlier is very good info but without comparing numbers from the different brands, it doesnt mean much. its not impossible to find those numbers from various brands, it just takes research. ive done my fair share of research and ive come up with my conclusions. ive said over and over what i think the best syntehtic motor oil is but no one cares. everyone has their own opinion and im not trying change theirs. i just think that ive done the research to back up my claim. i bet most of you didnt know that mobil ONE 5w and 10w-30 is closer in viscosity to a 20wt. oil than a 40wt. oil.
i was being sarcastic in my previous post. i was trying to say that why would honda sell Mobil ONE for a cheaper price than it actually retails for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kendogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ejprimo always laying down his knowledge on oils and filters
haha seriously I see you participating in every oil / filter thread
</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks. im just trying to help my fellow h-tr's choose their motor oil wisely. i just take what i learn from bobistheoilguy.com and relay it to you guys. most people tend to think motor oil is simply motor oil, but that is not the case. some motor oils are better than others. what NightRider-gsR posted earlier is very good info but without comparing numbers from the different brands, it doesnt mean much. its not impossible to find those numbers from various brands, it just takes research. ive done my fair share of research and ive come up with my conclusions. ive said over and over what i think the best syntehtic motor oil is but no one cares. everyone has their own opinion and im not trying change theirs. i just think that ive done the research to back up my claim. i bet most of you didnt know that mobil ONE 5w and 10w-30 is closer in viscosity to a 20wt. oil than a 40wt. oil.