i read somewhere that making ur ls into vtec isnt reliable? is this true?
i wonna make mine vtec

 

in short yes its a bad idea

most of these engines are nothing more than gsr heads on stock ls bottom ends. they are called time bombs around here since that's what they become

you're money ahead just selling your ls motor and buying a jdm gsr engine

lsv can be done right but it's only ls in name. when you tear the block down, sleeve it, have aftermarket rods and pistons, gram balance and use a vtec head they can live quite awhile.

 

Why don't you stick to driving sideways cause you have no clue what you talking about, and OP look in the All Motor forum.

 

alright fasho thanks guys im just not tryna put that **** on my car then it barelly last

 

Go ahead and delete your account.

 

why haven't you been banned yet?

not sure what the all motor forum has to do with much of anything. the dyno thread is helpful for power goals but longevity isn't often measured on here. the stock ls bottom end has a major weakness in the rods, specifically the bolts being too small. the arp upgrade is something but it's still not an engine that's going to live at 8500rpm for any length of time. the lsv's that do live are complete tear downs with upgraded rods, and a real gram balance at a minimum.

the b18b was never designed to go to 8000+, i'm not sure why anyone would find it shocking that they need to be modified to live at that rpm range.

another thing that adds to lsv issues with a lot of people is that 90% of the guys doing them are broke. broke means short cuts. if people actually had cash to do a real performance build they would start with a sleeved block or the very good dart block.

 

ANY motor is unreliable if it isn't constructed or well maintained...doesn't matter the series or parts installed.

AN LS-VTEC, properly done, and reinforced with the right hardware is not only a reliable swap but a good performing swap that can endure alot of abuse. I will go as far as saying that even a LS-VTEC done with a stock bottom end and no internals upgrade can last quite a while, mine lasted more then a year under hard driving before I actually started building on it.

It's all speculation, anything well built and well maintained can be reliable beyond expectation.

 

LS-V is reliable if done right. spend the money and do it right or you will like any build pay in the long run simple as that

 

I don't see the OP saying anything about revving to 8500+ or what ever. I have a B20v thats runs fine, I just dont drive around like a moron. Plus it wouldn't make power that high anyway.

O and the All Motor thread would be where the "How to Build a Reliable LS/Vtec" thread would be. Once again your post is useless.

 

basically sums you up

race for a few years, you'll figure out really fast why the itr bottom end is even marginal for extended track use. the b18b is just a joke unless it's torn down and done right.

if you aren't revving and you consider driving fast moronic why are you even building motors? the whole point of building a car is to improve the time on the track is it not? stock itr cams peak about 8000 in a 1.8L, figure 5-10% past peak power is where there car is going to be shifted and you have 8400-8800 rpms and that's with tiny itr cams. something with ***** like a jun3 or the similar profile endyn bumpstix is going to have you shifting around 9500-9700. i would not be surprised if a stock b20 or b18b came apart within 15 minutes of track time with 9700rpm shifts. the guys that have kept stock bottom ends together with vtec heads usually do so by not spinning it higher than mid 7s. just seems like a lot of work for an engine that will still make less power than a stock gsr.

by the way, if all you do is street drive why would you even waste dollars or effort building anything?

something like

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/b20vtec-specs-dyno-220-whp-153-tq-2272403/

would be a minimum for street use and the drag strip. this build is still too weak to hold up to road racing with stock sleeves and no oil cooler but it probably will live awhile on the street. notice the part about eagle H beams. that's the single weakest link in the 18b and the 20

i mean there have been many many guys before you that swear the b20 and lsv are so reliable and just dandy since they have been driving one for 2 months. you might ask yourself why honda saw fit to make the additions it did to the b18c bottom end if the b20 and 18b were good enough to spin with a vtec head

 

wow with this info i do believe ima just save for the GSR swap..

 

That would be a safe bet..but even those break under extended duress...

Point being..if it's stock, and u intend to abuse it heavily and push it outside the perimeters of its normal range of operation..it's bound to break unless u purpose build it.

 

that makes sense but i had heard LSV was expensive anyway and not worth it

 

[QUOTE=idrivesideways;43465222]

basically sums you up

I don't think I've threatened, or talked **** to you so that doesn't apply tooo me haha.


"i read somewhere that making ur ls into vtec isnt reliable? is this true?
i wonna make mine vtec"

OP doesn't say anything about keeping the bottom end stock.

A LS/V can be reliable, if done right. End of story.

 

Wouldn't say it's not worth it. Going All motor on a B-Series build, in the strive for power, is an expensive feat regardles the motor type. Getting a GSR, LS, LS-VTEC, B16, even a type R to put down 200hp at the wheel is a feat and a half to attempt all motor (Even though a type R is the closest, it still would require some money and much needed tuning).

The Worth comes in your need for speed and desire to build a performance motor. How important is ripping a 60mph run in 4 seconds to you? Very important? You cannot drive without it? Then dropping a few hundred into your motor for a reliable, powerful build is Worth it alright. If you're goal is just for a "Quicker then norm" build then it may not seem worth it at all to do anything to your motor.


Having had a B16, b20, B18 (stock), Ls vtec, GSR even a type R at some point in time, I can tell you that reliability comes with precision, diligence and NOT cutting corners and that if you really have a passion to make your swap work, and make it the best it can be, then it's always gonna be worth it to invest in making more power.


IF I may make a suggestion...


LS
Sleeve It
High Compression Pistons
SEVERE Crank work
B16 Head with above type R level Drivetrain hardware (I went Skunk2)
Port and Polish, 3 angle valve job
Intake Manifold (I went skunk2, but squeezed more power out of a victor X)
Port matched Throttle Body
Cold Air Intake
Exaust Manifold (once again found myself going with Skunk2 and stayed)
3" Exaust
225lph Fuel Pump
AEM Fuel Rail
300+ cc injectors
Hondata S300

and most importantly..

TUNE

Your LS/Vtec will make power reliably, perform reliably to spectacular levels and never let you down.

Go forth and make power young man...and enjoy it.

 

Well, this got out of hand quickly.

OP: LS/VTEC's got a bad reputation from half-assed builds that blew up. IF you build it correctly, it will be just as reliable as a stock engine. Having said that, if you want the same reliability there are things which must be done in order to ensure the engine stays in one piece. You dont have to go all-out crazy to make it work like Mr. Sidewaysdriver seems to think. If you find a quality LS, replace the rodbolts with ARPs, and attach the VTEC head and oil lines correctly, you will have no issues.

Some people are easily persuaded into thinking that these engines have problems and others over-complicate things when in reality, the truth lies somewhere in between. If built correctly and not stressed beyond its capacity, you will have a perfectly reliable setup.

LOCKED

PS: Grow up a little guys...