koni yellow and bolt problem
Has anyone had a problem with the factory bolt that goes through the bottom of the stock shocks not work with the nut that is welded onto the koni yellows. My bolts are fine threaded and the nuts on the koni yellows are coarse threaded. Just wondering if anyone has had that problem. Im probably just gonna go to home depot and see if I cant find a bolt that will work for it. Sounds ghetto but what else can I do?
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,101
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Never heard of that problem, ever. I've had my suspension on and off the car numerous times since I purchased my Koni Sport shocks 9 years ago, and have always used the OE bolts.
I would contact Koni about it and see what they say.
I would contact Koni about it and see what they say.
I don't know if I would use Home Depot bolts for your suspension. They're not meant to handle the high demands of your suspension. I would use Home Depot bolts for body stuff, or interior stuff. But nothing like suspension.
i've stripped one before. find an ace hardware. they actually sell grade 8 that is designed for heavy loads like suspension. buy a grade 8 nut and bolt long enough to work and the correct size. toss the honda bolt and you're good to go.
grade 8 has 6 dashes and looks like this

DO NOT run home depot cheapie bolts. grade 3 and 5 can break under the stress of suspension.
grade 8 has 6 dashes and looks like this

DO NOT run home depot cheapie bolts. grade 3 and 5 can break under the stress of suspension.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,101
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Lowe's carries Grade 8 bolts, not sure about HD but they probably do, too.
I would still contact Koni about it. Koni shocks should always be compatible with the OEM bolts. If they're not then you either got a bad set or the wrong set.
I would still contact Koni about it. Koni shocks should always be compatible with the OEM bolts. If they're not then you either got a bad set or the wrong set.
the nuts welded on are cheap. if you zap one with the impact gun you can strip it pretty easy. if you start to put it in and it's even a little cross threaded you can damage it. 9 out of 10 times that would be my guess
hmm.i didn't know that about HD and lowes, i'm in there all the time i never noticed 8s, gotta look now
hmm.i didn't know that about HD and lowes, i'm in there all the time i never noticed 8s, gotta look now
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plus I had to do what I could to get it done as I already had the front put together and im going back to school in a week n a half. I ended up just drilling the threads out in the nut and then put a lock washer and nut against the nut that was welded on. My be a little ghetto but it worked fine.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,101
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
plus I had to do what I could to get it done as I already had the front put together and im going back to school in a week n a half. I ended up just drilling the threads out in the nut and then put a lock washer and nut against the nut that was welded on. My be a little ghetto but it worked fine.
Also I hope you did remember to tighten that bolt/nut with the suspension loaded so that you don't preload and eventually tear the LCA bushings.
plus I had to do what I could to get it done as I already had the front put together and im going back to school in a week n a half. I ended up just drilling the threads out in the nut and then put a lock washer and nut against the nut that was welded on. My be a little ghetto but it worked fine.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,101
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
But I still don't see why y'all are so intent on ghetto-rigging your expensive shocks, which carry a lifetime warranty, when Koni should remedy the situation if in fact the welded nuts have the wrong thread size/pitch. That is, unless you F'd them up yourself. In that case you're on your own and probably voided your Koni warranty.
well. lets think this out
vibrations can loosen bolts but a welded nut won't stop that
a grade 8 nut is stronger than the oem koni nut
the stress in the suspension is on the bolt. the nut is basically a retainer clip keeping the bolt from coming free
i don't really see anything dangerous with what the op did mainly because that nut is stronger than the one he had before. the koni nut is also fat enough it should have a good surface to seat to.
if someone was worried about vibration blue threadlock would kill it dead in its tracks
vibrations can loosen bolts but a welded nut won't stop that
a grade 8 nut is stronger than the oem koni nut
the stress in the suspension is on the bolt. the nut is basically a retainer clip keeping the bolt from coming free
i don't really see anything dangerous with what the op did mainly because that nut is stronger than the one he had before. the koni nut is also fat enough it should have a good surface to seat to.
if someone was worried about vibration blue threadlock would kill it dead in its tracks
Ill check the new nut i put on after a couple days. Worse case ill just take the rear shocks back off and cut the nut off and use the new washer and nut again. But yeah I put the washer and nut on there cause of the fact that the koni nut looked big enough to seat against but we'll see.
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travisallenn
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