Anyone got a link or instructions on replacing a master cylinder for a 97 teg? Thanks!

 

this for the brakes or clutch?

 

basically remove and replace. Pretty straight forward. Remember to bench bleed the MC before hooking up the lines, otherwise you'll never get the air out of there, mushy brakes suck.

 

clutch... is there anyone that knows how to do this step by step?


[Modified by 97teg415, 10:26 PM 8/31/2002]

 

i just did mine today... bought the hayne's manual, it's not as good as helms, but for 12 bucks at autozone, ya can't beat it... it's basically just remove and replace, the only part i had trouble with one of the bolts that holds the cylinder on, the one on the right is a breeze to take off, but there's not much room to get a socket around the nut on the left, i went and bought a short 12mm wrench from sears, worked fine. also make sure you have another cotter pin to replace the one you take out on the pedal. remember to bleed the system too once you're done installing the new cylinder

 

Removal
1) Disconect the cable from the negative battery terminal.

2)Working under the dash board, remove the cotter pin or spring clip from the master cylinder pushrod clevis. Pull out the clevis pin to disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.

3)Detatch the clutch master cylinder resevoir. Clamp a pair of locking pliers onto the clutch fluid feed hose, a couple of inches downstream of the reservoir. The pliers should be just tight enough to prevent fluid flow when the hose is disconnected.

4)Disconnct the hydralic lines at the cylinder. Loosen the fluid feed hose clamp and detatch the hose from the cylinder. Have rags handy as some fluid will be lost as the line is removed. Cap or plug the ends of the lines (and/ or hose) to prevent fluid leakage and the entry of contaminants. Caution: Don't allow brake fluid to come into ccontact with the paint as it will damage the finish.

5) Working under the dash, unscrew the two clutch master cylinder retaining nuts and remove cylinder.

Installation
6)Place the master cylinder in position and install the mounting nuts finger tight.

7) Connect the hydralic lines to the master cylinder. mOve teh cylinder slightly as necessary to thread the fitting into the cylinder (don't tighten the fitting yet). Attatch the fluid feed hose to the cylinder and tighten the hose clamp.

8) Tighten the mounting nuts securly, then tighten the hydralic line fitting securly.

9) Connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal. On models that don't use a spring clip, use a new cotter pin to secure the clevis pin.

10) Remove the locking pliers from the feed hose. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoirwith brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specifications and bleed the clutch system.

Tips: Just take the reservoir off of the car and you can reach the master cylinder much easier.

Don't get brake fluid on your paint, it will take that **** right off.

Don't let your drunk cousin play with the old master cylinder because it still has fluid in it and it may shoot out, bounce off of theceiling and onto the middle of your hood.

I got too sick of typing to type the instructions for the bleeding process but someone else will help I am sure. Good luck, it is easy as hell.

 

when removing it, just unscrew the bleeder by the slave cylinder and do a gravity bleed. the brake fluid will just drain out of the old MC. after the new one is installed and you bleed it again, do a short gravity bleed again and then do a pressure bleed. make sure the clutch fluid reservoir doesn't go empty when you're bleeding it. good luck

 

I know the thread is about clutch, but on this instruction, how do you bench bleed the brake MC? TIA.