ok, my b20z integra will start fine and idle fine. Once i give it a little gas the idle likes to come back down but only to 1500k. any ideas? no vacuum leaks (replaced tb gasket today and intake gasket 3 months ago) replaced iacv, tighted fitv, no CEL either. motor has intake header and adj. cam gears thats it

 

Try flushing your radiator coolant...there might be air bubbles inside

 

ok and just now on the way home it died while i was driving too

 

TTT

Could the dieing problem be the alternator? i have no idea how old it is it was on my motor when i bought it... Going to test it today.

 

One point five million RPM is indeed a pretty high idle. Check the throttle cable tension. An alternator problem will usually cause some engine struggling before it just dies. Check the fuel pressure.

 

Alternator checked out fine. I will give the throttle cable a little slack and see what happens

 

Did you check for spark and fuel? Or did your car start up again?

 

It starts back up. I just put in a brand new optima redtop in it 2 days ago. The car will die when I'm goin down the street in 3rd and push the clutch in as I'm pulling up to my street to make a left turn. Once I get the clutch in the car will die. Doesn't do it everytime I push the clutch just happens when I'm pulling up to my street?? Lol.

 

If it runs fine when cold and also runs fine just after the engine reaches normal operating temperature, but has problems when running for much longer than that, you probably have a bad coil or ICM that's screwing up when hot. If that's what's happening, drive the car awhile and then go to a parts store. Remove the coil and ICM (be very careful working on a hot engine) and have them tested asap while they are still warm. Have the associate test them a few times in a row. A hair dryer can also be used to warm the parts up prior to testing but be careful not to overheat them.

 

Yeah thats what it sounds like. Ill go down the street, and I'll downshift from 3rd to 2nd to 1st then right before I turn left I have to go into a dip so I push the clutch in and get ready to brake, as soon as I get to around 10mph and press the clutch in it dies... My tach Isnt freaking out so I ruled out the ICM and the dizzy all-together but better safe than sorry and getting checked is free. Does anyone know if a b20 crank pulley and b18 crank pulley differ in the timing marks? I put a b18 crank pulley on my b20 and thinking the timing might be screwey??

 

Same timing marks. An ICM problem won't necessarily cause tach fluctuations. If you'd like to verify that the ignition is the cause before having the parts tested, either buy a spark tester or:

First, warm the car up completely to normal operating temperature or as hot as your motor gets. Some ignition components are affected by heat and problems with those parts may not show up until the engine is hot. Disable the fuel injectors and get a new or known good spark plug. Set the gap of this plug to your vehicle's specifications and make sure it is clean afterward. Wear gloves (welding gloves work great), preferably with latex or nitrile gloves underneath, and remove a spark plug wire from its plug. Connect the good plug to the end of the wire and hold the plastic deep-well tube at the very tip of the wire end with the threads of the plug touching bare metal on the valve cover. Have an assistant crank the motor while you watch the spark, carefully keeping all body parts away from the plug, motor and car body. Different types of plugs have different colored sparks but usually a good spark is a thick, strong flow of bright pink or is at least bright. Little blue or pink "lightning bolts" indicate a weak ignition. Check all four wires. If the sparks at all of the wires are weak, try holding the threads of the plug against the battery negative post to see if the better ground makes a stronger spark. This will test your entire ignition.

You follow a similar procedure when using a spark tester.

 

Alright, I have a spark tester. Weak spark means I need a new ICM or coil?

 

UPDATE

I used the spark tester for the first time. I hooked it up from cylinder 1-4 and each time the test light blinked really fast a hot pink/red color. now I'm not sure but this tester just tells you if you have spark and not if it is weak or strong but I'm not sure I dont have a manual for it.

Also I got the idle fixed, the throttle cable was too tight and was not letting the idle go back down once it had been "revved"

 

Did you test the spark when the engine was hot and the problem was evident? Drive it awhile and see how it does with the cable adjusted. Hopefully it's better now.

 

I let the car warm up for about 15 minutes, shut it off to do the first plug, then turned it on and ran it for about 4 seconds each wire. I didnt drive it around afterwards though, weather isnt good and hopefully can take it out tomorrow