Identifying the problem.
Ok it broke down on me today, i was up the hill, car stalled and wouldn't restart again.
First, i checked all the 4 wires for the spark. There was a spark. Second, i checked for fuel pressure and it was there (gauge). Third, the fuel pump was working ( i heard it priming). Fourth, timing belt is in place ( i opened the valve cover). I tried to jump start it, pushed down the hill 2nd gear, it started and it idled at 1500 RPM and slowly started to die down. I tried revving it, wouldn't do any better. I shut it off.
What are your thoughts?
Ok, after i checked all that i gave up and then i called the tow truck. Decided to check for the spark once again and now i don't even have a spark. Like wtf seriously.
First, i checked all the 4 wires for the spark. There was a spark. Second, i checked for fuel pressure and it was there (gauge). Third, the fuel pump was working ( i heard it priming). Fourth, timing belt is in place ( i opened the valve cover). I tried to jump start it, pushed down the hill 2nd gear, it started and it idled at 1500 RPM and slowly started to die down. I tried revving it, wouldn't do any better. I shut it off.
What are your thoughts?
Ok, after i checked all that i gave up and then i called the tow truck. Decided to check for the spark once again and now i don't even have a spark. Like wtf seriously.
Update,
There is a spark again, i took distributor cap off and there are 2 terminals on the ignition coil - and +. I hooked up a test light to them and both of them have power, then i tested each sparkplug wire for spark and it was there while cranking.
I just have no idea what else it could be? I had a similar problem before and it was my main relay which i have replaced with the used one. My old one used to work on and off and eventually it stopped working. I tried switching to my old one since i still have it and it's still the same thing. So then main relay again? Could that be a coinsidence or a possibility.
Now i'm lost.
There is a spark again, i took distributor cap off and there are 2 terminals on the ignition coil - and +. I hooked up a test light to them and both of them have power, then i tested each sparkplug wire for spark and it was there while cranking.
I just have no idea what else it could be? I had a similar problem before and it was my main relay which i have replaced with the used one. My old one used to work on and off and eventually it stopped working. I tried switching to my old one since i still have it and it's still the same thing. So then main relay again? Could that be a coinsidence or a possibility.
Now i'm lost.
I vote shitty alternator... believe it or not those things can cause a whole world of problems that just don't make too much sense.
Either that or a bad ground somewhere
Either that or a bad ground somewhere
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnnyH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I vote shitty alternator... believe it or not those things can cause a whole world of problems that just don't make too much sense.
Either that or a bad ground somewhere</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not either or. Alternator has been replaced a year ago. It would have gave me the battery light on the cluster and the car would still start. Come on man, you could do better then that.
Either that or a bad ground somewhere</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's not either or. Alternator has been replaced a year ago. It would have gave me the battery light on the cluster and the car would still start. Come on man, you could do better then that.
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I've done these tests so far:
The ignition coil did not put enough voltage, it only put out 11.89 V and the spec says +12V, also the resitance of the primary coil was 0.4 ohms and the spec is 0.6-0.8 ohms. and resistance of the secondary coil was less then a spec as well. The ignitor i tested with a test light by hooking up the positive lead from it to the positive terminal of the battery and the negative lead of the test light to the negative screw of the coil. The light was lit and it suppose to flash while cranking but it didn't. So it's faulty.
I didn't do any mods to my ignition system and it's not fuel related unless the fuel does not actually gets into the cylinders. Maybe it gets to the fuel rail and stops right there?
Looking at those tests it looks like my ignitor (ICM) isn't good. But how will this explain that when i had a spark it still wouldn't start? The fuel not getting to the cylinders as i stated before?
The ignition coil did not put enough voltage, it only put out 11.89 V and the spec says +12V, also the resitance of the primary coil was 0.4 ohms and the spec is 0.6-0.8 ohms. and resistance of the secondary coil was less then a spec as well. The ignitor i tested with a test light by hooking up the positive lead from it to the positive terminal of the battery and the negative lead of the test light to the negative screw of the coil. The light was lit and it suppose to flash while cranking but it didn't. So it's faulty.
I didn't do any mods to my ignition system and it's not fuel related unless the fuel does not actually gets into the cylinders. Maybe it gets to the fuel rail and stops right there?
Looking at those tests it looks like my ignitor (ICM) isn't good. But how will this explain that when i had a spark it still wouldn't start? The fuel not getting to the cylinders as i stated before?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Groove_D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've done these tests so far:
The ignition coil did not put enough voltage, it only put out 11.89 V and the spec says +12V, also the resitance of the primary coil was 0.4 ohms and the spec is 0.6-0.8 ohms. and resistance of the secondary coil was less then a spec as well. The ignitor i tested with a test light by hooking up the positive lead from it to the positive terminal of the battery and the negative lead of the test light to the negative screw of the coil. The light was lit and it suppose to flash while cranking but it didn't. So it's faulty.
I didn't do any mods to my ignition system and it's not fuel related unless the fuel does not actually gets into the cylinders. Maybe it gets to the fuel rail and stops right there?
Looking at those tests it looks like my ignitor (ICM) isn't good. But how will this explain that when i had a spark it still wouldn't start? The fuel not getting to the cylinders as i stated before?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well when i had a fault ignitor i had spark but it wasnt strong(if that makes sense). the ignitor amplifys the spark for the spark plugs i do believe.
The ignition coil did not put enough voltage, it only put out 11.89 V and the spec says +12V, also the resitance of the primary coil was 0.4 ohms and the spec is 0.6-0.8 ohms. and resistance of the secondary coil was less then a spec as well. The ignitor i tested with a test light by hooking up the positive lead from it to the positive terminal of the battery and the negative lead of the test light to the negative screw of the coil. The light was lit and it suppose to flash while cranking but it didn't. So it's faulty.
I didn't do any mods to my ignition system and it's not fuel related unless the fuel does not actually gets into the cylinders. Maybe it gets to the fuel rail and stops right there?
Looking at those tests it looks like my ignitor (ICM) isn't good. But how will this explain that when i had a spark it still wouldn't start? The fuel not getting to the cylinders as i stated before?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well when i had a fault ignitor i had spark but it wasnt strong(if that makes sense). the ignitor amplifys the spark for the spark plugs i do believe.
Hopefully tomorrow i'll get my hands on the new distributor. I'll let you guys know the aftercome. I just can't see anything else go wrong except the power to the fuel rail which will prevent injectors from opening but then again it could not happen since i disconnected the fuel pump while i was checking for the spark and the fuel pressure in the lines went down when i was cranking; therefore, injectors do open and even after when i connected back the fuel pump the pressure came back. So injectors do open.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Groove_D »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, problem fixed. Most likely faulty ICM as i stated above. I ended up replacing the whole distributor.
Thanks for the replies.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice...that damn ignitor can be a ss....you can get spark and still wont start...haha
Thanks for the replies.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nice...that damn ignitor can be a ss....you can get spark and still wont start...haha
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