whats the esay way to replace your alternator on a dc2

 

u got to take off your driver side axle so u can pull it out through the bottom...

 

u can take it out fom the top to.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s2kdre &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u can take it out fom the top to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Make sure the car is cooled down or you might burn yourself from the top. Just ask my mechanic. lol

 

would it be easier from the top? what do i have to take off from the top to get it out.

 

in for an answer too. i'll search up tomorrow and see if i can dig anything up. until then, bump for an answer.

 

u dont have to move nothin, u just have to wiggle it out, its a tight fit.

 

I think you will have a much harder time trying to get it up through the top than you would dropping it down from the bottom. Just go ahead and pull the driver side axle (at least you don't have to drain the tranny) and drop 'er right on down.

 

yeah, for sure from the bottom. i actually just recently replaced my alternator on my da. it's obviously a b-series motor so it's in the same exact spot as the dc's. i wouldn't even want to think about pulling it from the top.

 

through the bottom is definately easier. on a DC i don't even think you can get it out through the top anyways....

 

Yeah my buddy was able to get his up through the top, but on his D-series Civic w/ no PS or anything. But no way on a B-series Integra.

 

What about a 97 GSR? Which way is easier?

 

bottom.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrclan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about a 97 GSR? Which way is easier?</TD></TR></TABLE>

read my post again

 

my buddy and i did it in about an hour in an autozone parking lot on my way to baltimore from stl..

pop the bottom balljoint and pull the axle out of the intermediate shaft while moving the knuckle (with the axle still inside) to the side and out of the way...it moves it enough to get the alternator out.. the hub/axle just hang while still together

no dealing with the PITA axle nut and it saves a lot of time

this was on my DA but it cant be much different

 

well for me I can pretty easily get the axle nut off with the car still on the ground and my 32mm socket and breaker bar, so for me it would be easier to just go ahead and remove the whole axle.

But then again, it's always a PITA for me to get the inner joint off that intermediate shaft, unless the car is up on a lift.

 

Helm's manual didn't even mention axle removal, however Haynes mentioned it. I hated the way Honda was desined making replacing parts difficult.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrclan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Helm's manual didn't even mention axle removal, however Haynes mentioned it. I hated the way Honda was desined making replacing parts difficult. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you sure? I thought it did show removing the axle.

Oh well, just goes to show why it's good to have both a Helm's AND a Haynes manual, which I do have. I know the Helm's does not show the procedure to do a complete coolant flush for the entire coolant system including engine block, but the Haynes does show how to do it.

 

god this thread just reminded me....i have to replace my alternator before i can drive my GSR next spring...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you sure? I thought it did show removing the axle.

Oh well, just goes to show why it's good to have both a Helm's AND a Haynes manual, which I do have. I know the Helm's does not show the procedure to do a complete coolant flush for the entire coolant system including engine block, but the Haynes does show how to do it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

My 96 Helm's manual has an 8-step procedure, non of them says anything about removing axle:
1. Disconnect ground cable...
2. Disconnect the alt connector...
3. Remove the terminal nut...
4. Lossen the adjusting nut, then the mounting nut.
5. REmove the belt...
6. Remove the lower mounting bolt, then lift the alternator upward.
7. Remove the lower and upper mounting brackets bolts and the mounting brackets.
8. Remove the adjusting nut and upper mounting bolt, then LIFT OUT the alternator.

 

I read somewhere that if you remove the 3 bolts that hold the intermediate shaft bracket, you can move it enough to squeeze it out the bottom, at least on a DA.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrclan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 96 Helm's manual has an 8-step procedure, non of them says anything about removing axle:
1. Disconnect ground cable...
2. Disconnect the alt connector...
3. Remove the terminal nut...
4. Lossen the adjusting nut, then the mounting nut.
5. REmove the belt...
6. Remove the lower mounting bolt, then lift the alternator upward.
7. Remove the lower and upper mounting brackets bolts and the mounting brackets.
8. Remove the adjusting nut and upper mounting bolt, then LIFT OUT the alternator. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know, but it just seems to me that it's WAY too crowded, at least on a GS-R, to get it out from the top. There is the dual-runner intake manifold, the vacuum canister that controls the butterflys, the power steering hose, and the brake master cylinder all there in the way. Shoot it's hard enough for me to get a wrench down in there to loosen or tighten the top alternator bolt, much less lift it out from up top.

I'm going to check my 94 Helm's when I get home and see what it says.

 

i pulled my alternator on my 98ls from the top? everything was fine? just had to wiggle it out...

 

I checked 94 manual, the procedure is the same. I looked at my car and agree there are lots stuff in the way.

 

i replaced mine 6 moths ago myself. take off the front black bar on the bottom and ull be fine. its a tight fit