I'm looking into upgrading my '95 Integra GS-R for graduation. I want to get to around 200whp, but because of very low funding, that is out of reach. What can I expect from this setup? I'm looking for low priced power adders, and I need a little help as to what gives the best results. What is the best I can do with about $1,000-$1,500? Keep in mind labor isn't much of a factor in the budget cuz I have hookups...

Cams - Probably Skunk2 Stage 2 (cheap; $712/pair)...
Skunk2 Cam Gears(unless there are cheaper ones that don't slip; $200/pair)...
Valve Springs and Retainers - Skunk2 for both (unless I can find something cheaper; $441 for both)...
Apexi V-AFC (looking for good price)...
JG Pro Flo Header w/ 3" b-pipe (same as above)...
Dyno Tuning (can get done cheap)...

Not included in price, cuz I will have it before graduation:
Apexi N1 Catback
AEM CAI (no bypass)

How close am I to 200whp? What else can I add, or am I over my budget?

Thanks for the help, I know its a newbie question, but I don't wanna fish through a billion posts and compare things. Plus, this could become "the ultimate low-budget tuning" thread. See ya around...

-Andrew

PS: If anyone is in the area of Michigan State University, check out:
http://pub45.ezboard.com/bredlinestreetracing

We need members!!!

 

You can probably hit 200 whp with NOS, which will fit your budget. But if you want the all-motor route you might also want to add either CTR or ITR slugs to bump the compression for those cams. If you don't want to do the new pistons route you can probably use a thinner head gasket or mill the head. You might also want to add a Skunk2 or comparable ECU to take advantage of those cams.

You might also need Skunk2 manifold to get better air flow at top end compared to the Dual stage manifold. Also while your there get the hondata intake mani gasket to reduce manifold temperature.

You might also need to upgrade you rods to the ITR ones, from what I heard GSR rods tend to stretch at high RPMs. You probably don't have to upgrade, but its good piece of mind knowing that you bottom end can handle the higher RPMs.

The things you might think about adding:
Skunk2 manifold $310
ECU $250-$300
CTR or JDM or USDM ITR slugs $ 300-$350
ITR rods (optional)
Hondata gasket $60
FPR $30-$150

 

Yeah, I don't want to do pistons or rods cuz I am doing a FI build up next summer, with Crower rods and 9.0:1 JE pistons, which I can't afford now. Also, same thing with the head gasket, that is the oppisite of what I want to do. I just need something to get me through this year. Does anyone know how you can raise the redline on a stock ECU? When I get the valvetrain done, I want to raise the redline to 8700 (shifting at 8500 when racing). Will the stock bottom end handle that? Also, with out the parts that you mentioned, how much hp will I have? Thanks for the info, I might consider an ECU chip, but I heard those are bad cuz they are all programs for race versions running wild cams and compression ratios and stuff, so I want to stay away from that. Can I just use the VAFC instead of adding a fpr?

-Andrew

 

bump...

 

GSR rods are good for 9000 rpm (daily driving?). You need to make sure you have the proper valvetrain components. And if you plan on going fi, getting high lift cams is a bad idea. Skunk2 stage 2 cams aren't made for f/i. If you fully tune it, expect around 180whp....You definitely neeed to bump up that compression though.

 

I'll get rid of the cams in about a year or more depending on when I get the turbo kit, and I am saving my GS-R cams for when I put a turbo on. I just need a quick fix for this summer. Other than that, does anyone have an answer to whether I need an FPR with the Apexi VAFC? Or how to raise the redline cheaply? Thanks for the help...

 

add a skunk2 intake manifold

get some sticky tires, clutch and suspension and bring home
home some 13 second timeslips

 

Compare with my signature: ~$5000 just for the parts not including the $$$ for installation which is about another ~$2000: With my setup I got 175whp...keep dreaming for 200whp, I know I am , but w/ out ~$9000 Naturally aspirated or going Forced Induction(ie. NOS, TURBO, SC) it just isn't going to happen.
Sorry...

 

Only 175whp from all that??? Check this out: http://integra.vtec.net/carmag/importtuner1.html they got 152.4whp from just I/H/E namely 13.9whp from just the AEM CAI. This was all on a '98 GS-R with ODB2. The note on that article is that if they had done fuel tuning, they probably would have gone higher. How did you gain only 22.6 whp from AEM ITR CAI, Skunk2 Intake Manifold, ECU, Toda Spec B Camshafts, gears, head gasket, and a high flow cat??? I think 200whp is very attainable with my setup, considering the Skunk2 Spec 2's are identical to JUN 3's.

-Andrew

[Modified by Stealth 95 GS-R, 5:42 PM 3/25/2002]


[Modified by Stealth 95 GS-R, 5:44 PM 3/25/2002]

 

check this setup:
Itr or Ctr cams -$300-350 used
spoon Itr ballanced pistions- $330 (www.jdmhondaparts.com)
Skunk 2 or crower valvesprings and retainers - shouldnt be more than $300
replace the head gasket (spoon 1 piece)
Skunk 2 cam gears - $200
and a DC jdm header with a testpipe $400

that should be around $1500 and $1600. also this setup should be good for atleast 170whp - 180whp.

shop around and if you dont mind buy some quality used parts, im sure most of these parts can be has for cheap if they are used.

good luck and let us know what u decide

 

Thanks for the input. So far, since I am going turbo next year, I am looking at Skunk2 IM, ECU chip, ITR TB, ITR intake cam, DC JDM 4-1 Header, Skunk2 Spring/Retainers, Skunk2 Cam Gears, A'PEXi V-AFC, and some dyno time...all on top of the AEM CAI and A'PEXi N1 catback. Aiming for 170whp.

-Andrew

 

Personally I have a better plan for you. First should prep it for FI like go ahead and get low comp pistons and rods, clutch, good tires (thats about 1,500 since you have hookup on labor) then get a no interest credit card call ben @ import parts.com and get a good deal on turbo kit. imo dont waste your $$ on parts that you may not use next year. The key to remember in this sport is that you dont get your $$ back from what u put in your car, you do it for yourself and to beat those cocky mustang guys. So why waste 1,500 or so on things that may change in one yeat. just my .02.

In the end you will be pleased

 

I agree, if you plan on doing turbo there is no sense in you going and buying a JDM header you aren't going to use, start saving up for the new pistons, rods(safety freak here), new clutch, new guages. There is going to be alot of stuff to do if you plan on going FI, so don't waste anything, you'll regret it later when you have your header lying around.

 

see, now I am stuck...since my car has 115,XXX miles on it, I sometimes wonder if an N/A build is better. How much hp would I loose by going with low CR pistons? I was going to do JE 9.0:1 pistons. If I don't do an N/A build, I will probably do wheels/tires. I can also get this for $1,580 shipped.

Skunk2 IM
Skunk2 ECU chip w/ free JUN program.(www.hyperducktuning.com)
Skunk2 Stage 2 Cams
Portflow Inner Springs/ITR Outers & Portflow Ti Retainers
Skunk2 Cam Gears

So, should I just do that? Then do CTR pistons, P&P, and such later down the road when I get more money, or should I just save for turbo?

-Andrew