forumnoobie

is it possible w/out bleeding the system? tried the c-clamp thing already and searched. thanks

0hboitony

on the piston... it gonna look like a cross... take a long and big flat head and twist it! right goes in and go all the way down BUT NOT TO MUCH! you want to mess up the baring inside... so do it till its flat and slide your pads and bolt it right up! good luck!!

forumnoobie

thx for quick reply, going to try that now, ive already thrown every tool i own. its my first brake job... and my last

gsrob

A pry bar or a really big flat head screw driver works best for it...Unless you have the little cube tool with small points that line up as a cross. It goes on the end of a ratchet and makes it really easy.

jewpont

Pliers, open them alittle to fit each point towards the end across from each other and turn.

gsrious

if you already used the c clamp on it then you might be out of luck. you could have probably damaged it by doing so.

try twisting the piston, as members have said. that should moving the piston in or out depending on which way you turn it.

Rickdrizzle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0hboitony &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on the piston... it gonna look like a cross... take a long and big flat head and twist it! right goes in and go all the way down BUT NOT TO MUCH! you want to mess up the baring inside... so do it till its flat and slide your pads and bolt it right up! good luck!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

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myfirstdc2

turn it with a screw driver, or go buy a rear brake tool and use a rachet for faster changing.

CARMA_626

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by forumnoobie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thx for quick reply, going to try that now, ive already thrown every tool i own. its my first brake job... and my last</TD></TR></TABLE>

It shouldnt be your last.

Doing your brakes is super easy and will save you a ton of cash by not taking it to a mechanic. Once you know what you're doing, you'll slap your head because it's so easy.

AWD Terror

Get the right tool. It's like $12 and it's pretty much universal

6-thray

twist it bro!!! it looks like a cross

forumnoobie

Got it all figured out. I did use a clamp on the back piston so I hope I didn't do any damage to it. Thanks for the help. Got my first brake job under my belt.

boosteda9

id rather do it the right way with the piston tool thats the shape of a cube :D

soon2bdropped

a flat head or a set of needle nose pilers will do..

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

I don't know what cube tool ya'll are using, but the one I got from AutoZone does not fit the Integra rear caliper piston very well, not on any side. A couple of different sides of the tool will sort of fit, but not very well and it ends up slipping off all the time, and you'll end up swearing alot.

I just changed my rear brakes last weekend, and it was MUCH easier to turn the piston with my panel puller tool, since it's wide and flat at the end.

Probably 30 seconds of twisting the panel puller tool per side was all that was needed to get the piston all the way back in, nearly flush with the rubber seal.

Just be careful that the seal doesn't stick to the piston and try to twist and possibly tear it. If the seal starts to twist with the piston, just turn it back the other way to try to work the piston apart from the seal, so that the seal will slide against the piston and stay where it's supposed to.

91redteg

dont bleed them just open the bleeder valve for a second then close it and it takes the pressure off, thats what i did. it can let air bubbles in but it didnt when i did it.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91redteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont bleed them just open the bleeder valve for a second then close it and it takes the pressure off, thats what i did. it can let air bubbles in but it didnt when i did it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No reason to open the hydraulic system at all when doing a brake job.

Just remove your brake MC reservoir cap because the fluid in the reservoir will rise slightly when you push the pistons back in. Make sure the fluid doesn't overflow. You may need to use a syringe or something and suck a little fluid out of the reservoir.

And make sure you put the reservoir cap back on before driving, unlike I did the other day and realized my brake light was on in the dash when I got down the street. Had to pop the hood and put it back on real quick while I was sitting at the stop sign.

gsrob

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No reason to open the hydraulic system at all when doing a brake job.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I always wonder why people think they need to.

dwolsten

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I always wonder why people think they need to.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not required, but it's not a bad idea to bleed the brakes if it hasn't been done in a while. It seems the fluid gets the worst at the calipers, so it can be helpful to properly bleed a little fluid out of each caliper after changing the pads. But don't just open the bleed bolt; bleed them properly: use a length of hose going into a jar, open the bleed screw, then pump the pedal once. Then put some fresh fluid in the master cylinder reservoir to refill it.

Personally, I completely replace the fluid every 30k miles, independent of the pad changes.