how does RPM work?
hey, I need some input, I have a 1995 ls with greddy kit
problem: noticed the stock RPM gauge flies to 4.5k then stays there but I'm still accelarating....as soon as I let off the BOV releases pressure and then the gauge flies up to where it should have been and goes down from there.
info:stock cluster, with reverse gauges properly installed, the RPM gauge seems to work in nuetral or slow accelaration in the same gear, so if i bring it up to 4.5k slowly without boost it works past that, what is going on?
how is boost affecting this?
anyone know how the stock rpm gauge works, so i can locate the problem.
let me rephrase the question, what sensors are involved in translationg the current RPM to the ECU and then to the gauge, and how are they if at all related to positive pressure accumulatd by the turbo?
problem: noticed the stock RPM gauge flies to 4.5k then stays there but I'm still accelarating....as soon as I let off the BOV releases pressure and then the gauge flies up to where it should have been and goes down from there.
info:stock cluster, with reverse gauges properly installed, the RPM gauge seems to work in nuetral or slow accelaration in the same gear, so if i bring it up to 4.5k slowly without boost it works past that, what is going on?
how is boost affecting this?
anyone know how the stock rpm gauge works, so i can locate the problem.
let me rephrase the question, what sensors are involved in translationg the current RPM to the ECU and then to the gauge, and how are they if at all related to positive pressure accumulatd by the turbo?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91ntegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get an aftermarket tach man, auto meter's are the most common and also the most accurate. that should help you out</TD></TR></TABLE>
This didn't answer his question. Maybe he doesn't want an overside 3 3/8" or 5" monster tach clashing with a stock interior.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadLock23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
info:stock cluster, with reverse gauges properly installed, the RPM gauge seems to work in nuetral or slow accelaration in the same gear, so if i bring it up to 4.5k slowly without boost it works past that, what is going on?
how is boost affecting this?
anyone know how the stock rpm gauge works, so i can locate the problem.
let me rephrase the question, what sensors are involved in translationg the current RPM to the ECU and then to the gauge, and how are they if at all related to positive pressure accumulatd by the turbo?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
When did this first happen? Just all of a sudden? Or had the needle been sticking before?
Are POSITIVE that the indiglo gauges aren't holding that needle? For all the effort that it takes, that would be the first thing I would check. It only takes 5 screws and 10 mins of your time to take that guage cluster out and apart.
If that's not it, then I would consider checking wiring schematics.
Remember...start with simple solutions first.
This didn't answer his question. Maybe he doesn't want an overside 3 3/8" or 5" monster tach clashing with a stock interior.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DeadLock23 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
info:stock cluster, with reverse gauges properly installed, the RPM gauge seems to work in nuetral or slow accelaration in the same gear, so if i bring it up to 4.5k slowly without boost it works past that, what is going on?
how is boost affecting this?
anyone know how the stock rpm gauge works, so i can locate the problem.
let me rephrase the question, what sensors are involved in translationg the current RPM to the ECU and then to the gauge, and how are they if at all related to positive pressure accumulatd by the turbo?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
When did this first happen? Just all of a sudden? Or had the needle been sticking before?
Are POSITIVE that the indiglo gauges aren't holding that needle? For all the effort that it takes, that would be the first thing I would check. It only takes 5 screws and 10 mins of your time to take that guage cluster out and apart.
If that's not it, then I would consider checking wiring schematics.
Remember...start with simple solutions first.
It might be something with the distributor..
My friend has a stock LS and the tach jumps around after he gets over 5k.. only under load though.. It sweeps fine when in neutral...
Its weird but i think the distributor is the cause of it..
My friend has a stock LS and the tach jumps around after he gets over 5k.. only under load though.. It sweeps fine when in neutral...
Its weird but i think the distributor is the cause of it..
nope, the gauges sweeps accross when in neutral, so it cant be that....
it happens when in boost, so if I do 3 shifts, 1st to 2nd to 3rd, first it holds at 4.5k then 2nrd when I shift it shoots to 5.5k and then holds there once boost kicks in and so on......
nothing to do with gauges...
since you think its the distributor:
here is recent event, got new amp, new sub, new wiring kit for sub, did everything to spec.
ran over curb got realignment and rebalancing, but that doesnt seem like it could cause it, this just started happening never happened before.
if it was the gauges it would get stuck in neutral tooo
and no i dont want a monster tach...
Modified by DeadLock23 at 3:43 PM 7/3/2004
it happens when in boost, so if I do 3 shifts, 1st to 2nd to 3rd, first it holds at 4.5k then 2nrd when I shift it shoots to 5.5k and then holds there once boost kicks in and so on......
nothing to do with gauges...
since you think its the distributor:
here is recent event, got new amp, new sub, new wiring kit for sub, did everything to spec.
ran over curb got realignment and rebalancing, but that doesnt seem like it could cause it, this just started happening never happened before.
if it was the gauges it would get stuck in neutral tooo
and no i dont want a monster tach...
Modified by DeadLock23 at 3:43 PM 7/3/2004
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My car is all stock , and sometimes it does that too , I noticed , that sometimes when it accellerates , the rpm stay at the same point (that's random ,not at 4.5 or something) .
Also , sometimes , i might travel at a constant speed , and if i let the accellerator petal , and press it again , the rpm , might fall 200-500 rpm and stay there (all these at the same speed)
Also , sometimes , i might travel at a constant speed , and if i let the accellerator petal , and press it again , the rpm , might fall 200-500 rpm and stay there (all these at the same speed)
when i had problems with my tach & guage cluster it was due to a bad transmission sensor, fried cluster, blown fuses, and wires melted together under the dash. symptons included cluster lighting blown, rpm and speedo needle dropping to zero on the highway and shifting problems.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Medek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i had problems with my tach & guage cluster it was due to a bad transmission sensor, fried cluster, blown fuses, and wires melted together under the dash. symptons included cluster lighting blown, rpm and speedo needle dropping to zero on the highway and shifting problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well the problem seemed to cure itself after being parked overnight, but I did hit a curb dwestroying my downpipe and possibly really hurting the tranny, so I'm assuming its a bad tranny sensor, anyone know where it is?
thanks
well the problem seemed to cure itself after being parked overnight, but I did hit a curb dwestroying my downpipe and possibly really hurting the tranny, so I'm assuming its a bad tranny sensor, anyone know where it is?
thanks
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