Finally got the Flex pipe today. I had to custom order it from SMSP. 3" inch flex pipe with 3 bolt flanges welded on. Like all of SMS Products, the weld quality is excellent. It was a bit pricey, but you get what you pay for.

On to the pictures!

(Header-Tech header + SMSP 3" inch flex pipe + Kteller Cat with 3" inch inlet / 2.5" inch outlet)




(3" inch collector )



So this summer, I will be installing this header setup, along with Skunk2 Valvepsrings, Skunk2 Retainers, chipped p28, and get it Dyno tuned to 9000rpm.




I'll have to cut a good chunk of my Tanabe Exhaust to make the header fit, so that will kinda suck. Also, the second O2 bung on the Cat is pushed back alot further down... what should I do? Extend the O2 wire, or plug it up since I'll be running OBD1 soon?

 

Nice

 

I'd just pull the o2 sensor off and solder some extra wire on it.

 

i envy you...

 

extend the wire

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">extend the wire</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have absolutely no skills when it comes to wiring. How can I go about doing this?

 

Looks good

You can just get rid of the secondary O2 or just extend the wires by soldering our using butt connects. Its very easy to do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skunk2nR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have absolutely no skills when it comes to wiring. How can I go about doing this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

cut, add wire, crimp, or solder (your pick) and there you go.

 

That's a sick header setup. Keep us posted on what numbers you pull with that and the tuned OBDI ECU. What's your current dyno graph look like?

 

holy crap! thats sick. whats your setup and hp goals?

 

yeh mang that **** is pretty sick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by teamlegacy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">holy crap! thats sick. whats your setup and hp goals?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Current performance parts on the car are:

- Skunk2 Stage 1 Cams
- Skunk2 Cam Gears
- Skunk2 Intake Manifold
- ITR AEM CAI
- USDM DC 4-1 header
- Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion Exhaust
- Apex'i VAFC
- B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator
- Datum1 High Volume fuel rail


I'm slowly building my way up to 200wHP All Motor. I'll be there eventually.

This header setup should flow a helluva lot better than my shitty usdm DC 4-1 header and stock cat.

 

the only thing I am not getting about your setup is that you are going from less restrictive air flow (3") to 2.5"...that doesn't make sense, your header collector size is only worth as much as you pipe size. You might as well have stuck with 2.5" all the way back, also, if you are switching to Obd1 you won't need the secondary O2 sensor so just plug the hole and get rid of the whole section of wiring for that O2 sensor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostinb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only thing I am not getting about your setup is that you are going from less restrictive air flow (3") to 2.5"...that doesn't make sense, your header collector size is only worth as much as you pipe size. You might as well have stuck with 2.5" all the way back, also, if you are switching to Obd1 you won't need the secondary O2 sensor so just plug the hole and get rid of the whole section of wiring for that O2 sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

An all out 3" inch exhaust system will be overkill for my NA setup. Some back pressure is needed, so it won't be too harmful to go from a 3" inch collector to a 2.5" inch exhaust system.

I believe its a different story with boosted cars.

 

Flex pipes are about the gayest things I have ever seen. When I was working at the supra shop people would always come in with DP's with those in them and I would always saw them off and weld in a new section. why do you need a restrictive heavy thing like that in your exhaust? lenghting the 02 will take you about 2 minutes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deepgreengsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Flex pipes are about the gayest things I have ever seen. When I was working at the supra shop people would always come in with DP's with those in them and I would always saw them off and weld in a new section. why do you need a restrictive heavy thing like that in your exhaust? lenghting the 02 will take you about 2 minutes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well let's see. It's a 3 bolt flange design, so I can't use spring nuts. If i just connected the header to the cat to the exhaust, there is a good chance something will snap or crack. I don't want my header to crack. That's the reason why I got the flex pipe, so I wouldn't have to worry about anything like that.

And how are flex pipe's restrictive? They're straight through pipes that are flexible with movement.

 

[QUOTE=Skunk2nR]
If i just connected the header to the cat to the exhaust, there is a good chance
something will snap or crack. I don't want my header to crack. QUOTE]

why would the header crack? what would snap or crack? the spring bolts that hold the cat to the header usually are good enough. if you can't put on the spring bolts, usually the rubber mounts that hold the muffler and b-pipe to the chassis allow enough flex. i've personally been running a test pipe bolted directly to the header w/o spring bolts for almost 3 years, and over 30K, and nothing's cracked or snapped yet.

 

Nice setup buddy...goal of 200whp na is great...that's what mine is when all is said and done. Def let us know how it goes. I'm gonna post pics of my new stuff soon...autocross tomorrow. Anyways, great stuff.

-Staci

 

back pressure is the enemy. You are letting a myth live saying you need it. Yes a 2.5" exhaust may be better for your setup than a 3" but let's not say we need backpressure

 

Yea man, back pressure is not good period.

Its a myth that a little back pressure is good. It would be ideal to have no back pressure, than any at all.

and also, why not just go 2.5 throughout, than having 3in to 2.5in?

 

nice setup... now will you take pics of your car since ive never seen u post pics of it.... no excuses now hehe

 

http://www.team-integra.net/se...D=355

read that..it will tell you what backpressure does for you........you need some

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HJLau75 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea man, back pressure is not good period.

Its a myth that a little back pressure is good. It would be ideal to have no back pressure, than any at all.

and also, why not just go 2.5 throughout, than having 3in to 2.5in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

because he got a good price on the header i believe and it's 3" so step it down... 3" would be overkill.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obd2gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why would the header crack? what would snap or crack? the spring bolts that hold the cat to the header usually are good enough. if you can't put on the spring bolts, usually the rubber mounts that hold the muffler and b-pipe to the chassis allow enough flex. i've personally been running a test pipe bolted directly to the header w/o spring bolts for almost 3 years, and over 30K, and nothing's cracked or snapped yet.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

The header will crack but there is no third mount like the stock header.

 

I still don't fully understand the point of the flex pipe. I welded my own exhaust, etc etc, and bolted my cat w/ springs right to the header..

I've had no problems..? I don't get it?