when im driving over 60mph when i start to brake from 65 to 55 mph my car start shaking anybody know why.

 

possibly warped break rotors...

is this the only speeds that it happens at?

 

does your steering wheel shake? or are there any noises you hear as you increase speed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsr98integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly warped break rotors...

is this the only speeds that it happens at?</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2 axle maybe???

 

warped rotors

 

Your brake rotors are warped...you can either turn them (as long as they are thick enough), or just buy new ones. New ones are like $20 - $25 a piece at auto zone, advance auto, etc. Good luck!!!

 

Yup, warped rotors!

If you lived up here in Montreal, I would say it's because of the snow accumulated in your wheel wells which is the case for us right now... LoL

 

warped brakes

 

Brake rotors don't warp. They may not be seated properly on the hub, but that does not mean that they are warped. Check your brakes for runout and examine the hub faces for corrosion and/or debris. Your lugs may also not be properly tightened.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake rotors don't warp. They may not be seated properly on the hub, but that does not mean that they are warped. Check your brakes for runout and examine the hub faces for corrosion and/or debris. Your lugs may also not be properly tightened.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea they do. If you get them too hot, they will warp.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWD Terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea they do. If you get them too hot, they will warp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Read:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml

I've head brakes thermally warp when they were overheated. It was caused by the rotors being too thin. The condition went away when they cooled, so no permanent "warping" was induced.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWD Terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea they do. If you get them too hot, they will warp.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's very rare to experience warped rotors, especially on a street car. What most people commonly refer to as warped rotors is most often a case of uneven pad deposits on the face of the rotor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Read:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_i...shtml

I've head brakes thermally warp when they were overheated. It was caused by the rotors being too thin. The condition went away when they cooled, so no permanent "warping" was induced.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I see what they are saying, but I really can't find anyone that backs it up.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/disc-brake4.htm
http://www.f150online.com/foru....html
http://www.racepages.com/brand/powerstop.html
http://www.trustmymechanic.com/brakewarp.html

Edit: These are by no means 100% credible sources. This is just the first few links off the google search.

If the lug nuts are overtightened the rotors will over heat.
If the rotor is not put on right, it will overheat.
If you use the brakes for a long steady period of time, they will overheat.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's very rare to experience warped rotors, especially on a street car. What most people commonly refer to as warped rotors is most often a case of uneven pad deposits on the face of the rotor.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

But this would also be considered a warped rotor. There isn't a good way to get the deposits off w/o having the rotor turned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWD Terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But this would also be considered a warped rotor. There isn't a good way to get the deposits off w/o having the rotor turned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just because the solution or repair procedure is the same, does not mean that the original problem is. Uneven pad deposits are not the same as warped rotors, even if the symptoms and solutions are the same.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just because the solution or repair procedure is the same, does not mean that the original problem is. Uneven pad deposits are not the same as warped rotors, even if the symptoms and solutions are the same. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I meant that the pad deposits are "melted" to the rotor, becoming part of the rotor. Thus making an uneven surface.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake rotors don't warp. They may not be seated properly on the hub, but that does not mean that they are warped. Check your brakes for runout and examine the hub faces for corrosion and/or debris. Your lugs may also not be properly tightened.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Ok...so does anyone who has posted on this topic ever "turned" a set of rotors? I own a garage, and I have "turned" more than 1000 rotors in the last year. Why is it that my lathe always removes a solid (not deposited) material from one part of the rotor, but not other parts? Wouldn't this indicate a "warped" rotor? It seems to me that in order for this to happen the rotor would have to be "warped." And obviously since I work on only street cars, this must be a common occurence on street cars, not just race cars. Many times the rotors are far too thin to turn according to factory specifications, but they are still warped according to the micrometer I use daily.

 

I suppose it's an issue of semantics.

Regardless, if the OP has his rotors resurfaced or replaces them and then follows a proper bedding-in procedure, he should be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Regardless, if the OP has his rotors resurfaced or replaces them and then follows a proper bedding-in procedure, he should be fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

thanks guys ill try to fixed it well it wasn't doing that until i replace my brakes. its the steering wheel that shakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pokmijn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks guys ill try to fixed it well it wasn't doing that until i replace my brakes. its the steering wheel that shakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why don't you go eat some cakes over by the lakes.


So you just changed your rotors, and they are already bad?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weavertime1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Ok...so does anyone who has posted on this topic ever "turned" a set of rotors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes I have. The first time was in 1988.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weavertime1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I own a garage, and I have "turned" more than 1000 rotors in the last year. Why is it that my lathe always removes a solid (not deposited) material from one part of the rotor, but not other parts? Wouldn't this indicate a "warped" rotor? It seems to me that in order for this to happen the rotor would have to be "warped." And obviously since I work on only street cars, this must be a common occurence on street cars, not just race cars. Many times the rotors are far too thin to turn according to factory specifications, but they are still warped according to the micrometer I use daily. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How are you defining warped? A thickness fluctuation on a rotor that is worn beyond spec? In that case, yes they can appear to be warped because they are beyond the service limit which causes thermal warp at the cooling vanes and uneven wear. The root problem is that the rotors are beyond the service limit.

Many people misinterpret rotor runout due to improper seating as warpage. Of course the on-car lathe will "fix" the problem. I've had mechanics tell me that new rotors are warped from the factory and need to be turned on the on-car lathe. I wouldn't let them work on my car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AWD Terror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why don't you go eat some cakes over by the lakes.


So you just changed your rotors, and they are already bad?


</TD></TR></TABLE>

The hubs are most likely not true which causes the rotor not to seat flush. This yields rotor runout. I will file or block sand my hubs before mounting a new rotor to ensure that it is true and free of corrosion.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Regardless, if the OP has his rotors resurfaced or replaces them and then follows a proper bedding-in procedure, he should be fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bedding in will remove pad deposits.

 

The lathe is not an "on car" lathe. I am aware of rotors not seating on the hub, and the issues associated with that problem. Best of luck with your brake issue!