I had an idea today. Soon i should have about 6-7k to spend on a new ride. I really want a DC2 but im also afraid of goin crazy wit mods because I already got addicted to my last car. The only way to not do this is to start off big. Too bad 6-7k aint big dollars. Anyway...my idea was to get a dc2/4 shell for cheap then swap in a k20a2. DO you guy think this would work. If I can get the shell for cheap ill do this but i have some fears.

#1 fear is that the car will have no interior. #2 fear is that the car will be missing alot and that i would go over my budget jus to get the car to run #3 is how will i insure/register the car. I guess what im looking for is a full dc2 just with NO engine for about 2k and i need a complete k20a2 setup..installed for about 4-5k. That scretchin my budget alot and all this has to be done in 1 month. What u guys think?

 

6-7k is probably not enough to buy a teg and get a k20 swap done. And good luck doing this all in a month. Rome wasn't built in a day. These things take time and/or money. You don't seem to have much of either. Just go buy a gs-r or ls or something that runs and save the rest toward your swap and sell the other stuff when it is time.

 

how much do rsx-s full clips go for?

i need a car for school by august and i dont think my idea would be done by then either. Oh well.

My previous car was a slightly modded 2000 toyota corolla with wannabe volk te-37's by rota,prada 2s, tein springs, cai, cat-back, full system...u kno all the usual. How do u think an integ ls would compare to my old 130 hp-2600lbs-rolla?

 

I've seen k20's, tranny, ecu, etc, the usuall swaps go for roughly 5k

 

See if you can find a gsr or ls for roughly 2-3k and sell the drivetrain. That way you can get a shell and possible make some money.

 

I cant buy salvaged titles....the only way ima find a integ for that low is if its salvaged...

 

dude just get a GSR or LS. the k20 swap is supposed to be a real pain in the ***. you need custom axels, motor mounts and a bunch of other misc parts that you wont get with the engine. get the new honda tuning magazine, it shows the process and the requirements for the swap. also, if you cant buy a salvaged car then dont bother with a k20 swap

 

Find a DA (You can find them for cheap, even though you said DC2) RS, has the least of the weight, no real power options (as far as interior and mirrors, windows go) and drop a nice Turbo Kit in, a little suspension work and maybe some exterior stuff.. Then it could be possible to have a nice ride/some power.

 

yea i got that issue cuz thats how i got the idea. Ill do the swap later wen i can afford a project car and a daily driver.

 

Why would you want to do a k20 swap? save the headache....I think people who do k20 swap is ridiculous....especially when your on a budget. Spending 4-5 grand for a motor plus all other accesories to make swap it will cost you an arm and leg. Why not just get a b series motor save that extra cash and buy parts for it and produce more power then a k20 will do. I would still take over b series engine over k20 anyday.

 

haha u wont be saying that once the k20 swap gets down to 3k...k20 is better that b-series in alot of ways. Your only taking the b series now cuz u cant justify the cost. If i had 9k i would do it but 7k is pushin it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lekz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">haha u wont be saying that once the k20 swap gets down to 3k...k20 is better that b-series in alot of ways. Your only taking the b series now cuz u cant justify the cost. If i had 9k i would do it but 7k is pushin it</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes exactly if you Had 9k. But you don't, Same here and Im speaking on half the people here, They dont have 9k or 7k.....on hand. What Im saying is a B series is as much capable if not better then a k series motor. Dont get me wrong, Yes k20 is strong and yes it is different if you was suppose to see it in a dc/eg/ek chasis, but why waste so much money just for a swap with stock internals? Why not build a b16 Turbo and produce way way more power then a k20 would at the same time spend the same amount of money. But from what your saying, seems like you dont know much besides looking at price of an engine and seeing photos here of other people swaping k20's into there ek or dc's.......Do your homework first before buying something you have no idea of and how complicated it is......

 

See what you are doing is comparing a built TURBO motor to a stock k20. So what. Im not an FI guy so going turbo is kool an all but its nuttin special. I want N/A because simply...i want a reliable engine. Now compare a built N/A b16/18 to a built k20...

I have done my hw and yes i do compare prices and look at alot of swap pics? What else should i do? Aint that all apart of doing my homework? Also i can afford the swap(with some hook ups) but i would really like ac in my car so the swap just isnt practical. Ive researched the cost of all the installation and custom work to do so and ive found k20 is not the way for me to go FOR NOW. I would also like to do the swap my self because i kno i can find a complete k20a2 for about 3k but i would have to build this car in less than a month and i have 0 swap exp and this is probably the hardest honda swap. I wanna learn...trial and error...but i dont have the time to learn/do it. Dont tell me to do my hw...im DOING plenty of it.

 

I'm not jumping on any bandwagon here. I'm not a turbo guy. I don't have one let alone want one. But I'll tell you if you want a normally aspirated car with power. Above all you will be sacraficing driveability and reliability. You can build a faster turbo car and be more reliable. The biggest advantage of boost- you can turn it up or down. Less wear and tear on engine parts scooting around town on 10 psi. Race someone put some 114 in it and boost 25. All motor 14:1 will always be 14:1. you can detune it but you will have to run race gas everywhere. Detonation is always a concern not just when you are racing. Now maybe you are talking normally aspirated 11:1 not going crazy. Thats fine and dandy, how fast are you trying to go? You will always be able to go faster when you dictate the atmosheric pressure thats fed into your engine.

 

if i did the k20 swap i would keep it fairly stock until i can afford another daily driver. If i decided not to go that route the max hp id be shootin for is 240 switch is still street able on a k20

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sack Master &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not jumping on any bandwagon here. I'm not a turbo guy. I don't have one let alone want one. But I'll tell you if you want a normally aspirated car with power. Above all you will be sacraficing driveability and reliability. You can build a faster turbo car and be more reliable. The biggest advantage of boost- you can turn it up or down. Less wear and tear on engine parts scooting around town on 10 psi. Race someone put some 114 in it and boost 25. All motor 14:1 will always be 14:1. you can detune it but you will have to run race gas everywhere. Detonation is always a concern not just when you are racing. Now maybe you are talking normally aspirated 11:1 not going crazy. Thats fine and dandy, how fast are you trying to go? You will always be able to go faster when you dictate the atmosheric pressure thats fed into your engine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Rock on.


Sounds to me if you're trying to buy a shell for cheap then it's not gonna be that clean either - unless you find the cherry of the century. I don't know about you guys but I like clean rides that don't smell like ***.

I agree with everybody else, go find a driveable and hopefully cleaner 'teg and drive that around and just pace yourself while building it up. Because really, what's the big rush?

So if you asked if this a good idea and I give it a . Good luck with whatever you choose to do, man.