fan problem
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,413
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From: Los Angeles, CA, U.S.A
i'm still having the problem with my fan
the ran dont turn on they will only turn on when i turn on the ac
other than that they will never turn on
can someone please tell me how i fix this
the ran dont turn on they will only turn on when i turn on the ac
other than that they will never turn on
can someone please tell me how i fix this
Does anyones car overheat or the needle rise? I'm not sure about my car, but I dont' think I've ever heard them on without the A/C coming on. Our cooling systems are fairly large and efficient.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,413
Likes: 1
From: Los Angeles, CA, U.S.A
my car does over heat if it is left at idel for long periods of time because the fans dont switch on. can anybody help with this problem? i heard that it something with the fan switch
i have a first gen b16
i have a first gen b16
The fan switch is a little sensor - I think it's screwed into the thermostat housing (where the lower radiator hose attaches below/behind the distributor). I don't have the Helm book right here...
If you unplug that sensor, and jumper the wires together that you just took off, this should make the fan run. Maybe you need the ignition turned on? If this works, then your fanswitch is bad. If this doesn't work, then you have to look for the problem in your wiring. Blown fuse, bad relay, busted wire somewhere, etc...
I think the other two coolant temperature sensors are near the upper radiator hose. The little one is for the dashboard gauge, and the bigger one is for the ECM. They don't 'share' the same sensor with the radiator fans.
ps... The fan isn't supposed to come on until the temperature gets a little higher than normal. So don't expect it to run when your temperature gauge is at it's 'normal' position.
If you unplug that sensor, and jumper the wires together that you just took off, this should make the fan run. Maybe you need the ignition turned on? If this works, then your fanswitch is bad. If this doesn't work, then you have to look for the problem in your wiring. Blown fuse, bad relay, busted wire somewhere, etc...
I think the other two coolant temperature sensors are near the upper radiator hose. The little one is for the dashboard gauge, and the bigger one is for the ECM. They don't 'share' the same sensor with the radiator fans.
ps... The fan isn't supposed to come on until the temperature gets a little higher than normal. So don't expect it to run when your temperature gauge is at it's 'normal' position.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Slut City aka San Diego, Ca, United State Of King
this is a problem alot of people have, and instead of looking for the main problem.. people tend to hook up there fan to a toggle switch so you can turn it o in the car... just remember to turn it off when you get out your car.. if you want to get creative wire it to something in you r vehicle that runs only when you car is on so when you turn your engine off you dont have to worry about your fan...
If you were to put a jumper on the wires you just took off the switch, it will run. That doesn't mean the switch is bad. That's just taking the switch out of the wiring. Unless I am totally missing what you just said.
It could also be the oil temp. switch, or the coolant temp switch. They are both located on the back of the block. I have never had a problem with either. The only problems I have ever had with cooling fans was the fan itself, or the relay. I would start with the relay. Just my .02.
It could also be the oil temp. switch, or the coolant temp switch. They are both located on the back of the block. I have never had a problem with either. The only problems I have ever had with cooling fans was the fan itself, or the relay. I would start with the relay. Just my .02.
Ummm - Oil Temperature switch?
Here's what I was thinking...
The fan switch is easy to unplug & jumper the wires. If that makes the fan run, you've quickly proven that all the wiring, the relay, and the fan motor itself are all OK. I didn't really consider which part was more likely to fail.
Here's what I was thinking...
The fan switch is easy to unplug & jumper the wires. If that makes the fan run, you've quickly proven that all the wiring, the relay, and the fan motor itself are all OK. I didn't really consider which part was more likely to fail.
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