Engine mount relocation??
so, I have only heard there being a "kit" made for eg's that allows the sohc engine to sit higher in the engine bay.. I have never seen it, I've looked everywhere and nothing.. is there really something like this out there??
now, I don't wanna drop a single cam in my tegg so I was planning on taking measurements and fabricating something to relocate my motor mounts 2-4 inches higher ( taking into account the difference it will make when it comes to exhaust, shift linkages, ect.) what do u guys think? has it been done before? is there already something like this for sale online somewhere? am I living under a rock?!
now, I don't wanna drop a single cam in my tegg so I was planning on taking measurements and fabricating something to relocate my motor mounts 2-4 inches higher ( taking into account the difference it will make when it comes to exhaust, shift linkages, ect.) what do u guys think? has it been done before? is there already something like this for sale online somewhere? am I living under a rock?!
why on earth do you want a sohc in an integra ? even a b16 is weak on one...a single would be horried. plus for the amount of work for the swap is pointless.
I wouldn't even bother, along with the work required to move it higher your going to have to do something about the axles also. Are you trying to move it higher for more ground clearance or other reasons?
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yes more ground clearance.. but I really don't think I will need to do anything to the axles at all.. I mean my motor/ tranny is sitting lower than my spindles so it would actually be better to raise the motor/tranny to align it with or have it sit above spindle level (as it does from factory)
I mean I don't think its a big deal to cut a half moon on the underside of the engine bay walls to clear the axles and rack-n-pinion if necessary
I was talking about the new angle of the axles depending on how high your trying to raise the motor, but I've never seen someone mass manufacture raised mounts so you may be in for a long search.
I was thinking a 4 inch raise max.. oh and I took measurements and cut a sheet 1/8 inch thick steel to cover the underside of the engine bay
4 inches is more then you think if this is for ground clearance you may want to look how close the hood sits to the engine. Don't want to ruin your paint how low are you even trying to go ?. I'm helping my friend hellaflush his teg currently we are using a jdm itr header and 2.5'' straight pipe w/no resonator so it can be tucked in the exhaust trench. as for wheels he's running 16x9.5's with +15 offset thing is damn near an inch off the ground at the front and we didn't have to do any hack job of raising the engine. I don't see how you're going to raise the trans mount....the rear and driver side you could get 3/4-1'' up but.
4 inches is more then you think if this is for ground clearance you may want to look how close the hood sits to the engine. Don't want to ruin your paint how low are you even trying to go ?. I'm helping my friend hellaflush his teg currently we are using a jdm itr header and 2.5'' straight pipe w/no resonator so it can be tucked in the exhaust trench. as for wheels he's running 16x9.5's with +15 offset thing is damn near an inch off the ground at the front and we didn't have to do any hack job of raising the engine. I don't see how you're going to raise the trans mount....the rear and driver side you could get 3/4-1'' up but.
This crossed my mind, a great idea but only thing is the guys who want to be slammed don't know what a dry sump set up is at all. And more then likely can't do the set up them self's along the exhaust would still be an issue, but in theory but to that I'd say get a side exit header like a drag car lol.
Probably cost less to have a custom wet sump oil pan made and what goes with it then raising the engine, definitely cheaper than a dry sump system, [although a dry system would get the most clearance].
Hanging an inch above ground is not practical for anything but a show car, maybe a race car, I drop my 94RS when I autocross, but keep it a practical hight for DD, [although probably not practical for a slamed and tucked "hellaflush" ride] 94
Hanging an inch above ground is not practical for anything but a show car, maybe a race car, I drop my 94RS when I autocross, but keep it a practical hight for DD, [although probably not practical for a slamed and tucked "hellaflush" ride] 94
It should be easier to modify your existing mounts. This will prob not give you a 4 inch raise but I guess some raise would help. Making a spacer for the rear "t" mount and taking some material off of the bottom of the driver side mount. The hardest thing would be the trans mount. But if you have access to a machine shop it will help. I am thinking chopping off the whole bottom area of the trans mount along with some material then fabricating a plate with the same mount holes trans to mount. Then welding it back on there. You might be able to get 1/2 or maybe even a 1" lift out of that. Combining that with a custom sump oil pan that should put you in the clear. I personally dont agree with this but your car and your money. Would be cool to see the Fabrication work in making these one off mounts.
You can weld 4" tall steel plates to the current engine mount places(obviously 2 plates on each mount)
How ever up high the holes on the plates are, will determine how much it is raised
2 plates would be sketchy.
I would also well supporting plates on the 2 plates.
2 plates going from the top of the 2plates that are for the engine, going to the body.
Then another 2 plates holding it in
So 2 plates holding the engine, and 2-4 supporting plates for each of the engine plates.
As for the T bracket, leave it bolted to the block as is, then run 2 more plates from the bracket to the mount on the crossmember, then just put the bolts through the plates.
Vibration mounts will have to be removed
All this is being pictured perfect in my head lol
Hope you understand.
Also I am not sure of the strength this will have, idk if the plates will hold up.
But with a good welder and skills, that can be done.
How ever up high the holes on the plates are, will determine how much it is raised
2 plates would be sketchy.
I would also well supporting plates on the 2 plates.
2 plates going from the top of the 2plates that are for the engine, going to the body.
Then another 2 plates holding it in
So 2 plates holding the engine, and 2-4 supporting plates for each of the engine plates.
As for the T bracket, leave it bolted to the block as is, then run 2 more plates from the bracket to the mount on the crossmember, then just put the bolts through the plates.
Vibration mounts will have to be removed
All this is being pictured perfect in my head lol
Hope you understand.
Also I am not sure of the strength this will have, idk if the plates will hold up.
But with a good welder and skills, that can be done.
Acually there is a point of putting a fully built d- series in a integra. Believe it or not. A turbo fully built dseries will spank a fully built turbo bseries. Less rotation. Less weight to hull. And there was a awd dseries tranny in the ef waggons. So in other words d-series are faster built. Bseries are only good from.the factory.





