So I need to replace my engine in my 2001 integra and I need to know if I can put a 1991 LS motor in my 01?? Or does it have to be a specific year?

 

You can. U have to convert a few parts or plugs cause ur swapping from a obd0 to obd2.

Here a few that I can think of on the top of my head: obd2 distributor, alternator, fuel injectors, ecu. That's all I can think of as of now

But u can keep the parts that listed obd0 and just change out the sensor plugs for the parts listed above.

And I think you would have to change ur o2 sensor and add another o2 sensor cause I believe obd2 had two o2 sensors and obd0 has one. But someone will hopefully chime in and correct me if I'm wrong.

But I would just swap parts and avoid cutting and soldering sensors if ur not electrical incline.

 

I have yet to find or see a obd2 to obd0 jumper harness that's not a jump people do, the easiest thing to do would be to take your distributor/alternator/injectors over. As for the lack of a CKF just do the ckf bypass there's write up and it's easy stepping down to obd0 isn't really plausible especially in an emissions sense, swapping as making it obd2 isn't hard and "shouldn't" cost you anything.

 

Yea find a obd2a LS or B20 or whatever you end up swapping, you will need a a obd2a to obd2b conversion harness at the very least.

You can find a obd2a swap online easy no need to use a older obd0 swap unless its dirt free or something.

Depending on your state and smog regulations the engine will have to be the same year or newer to be a legal engine swap and or have the proper emissions equipment converted to the new engine like what people do with using JDM engine swaps in a USDM chassis.

 

Why would anyone need to do a ECU conversion after swapping over a long block??

You put whatever year engine you want in there. You run your original ECU. You need to swap some of your OBD2 sensors onto the new engine.

The ECU doesn't care if you have a V8, rotary, jet engine, vibrator, or slice of pizza under the hood. It just wants the right sensor signals.

If your state requires that the engine itself needs to be of the same (or later) year as the car....that's an external requirement. ECU's DGAF.

 

You will have to rewire the fan switch to the back of the block of the 91 as its there as opposed to the thermostat housing of the 01.

-reuse your injectors, distributor and alternator
-swap over intake and exhaust manifolds
-bypass CKF
-the rest will plug and play

 

So if I only need to do a harness does it make a difference if I seized the engine I'm taking out like as far as things that need to be swapped. What about rebuilding the engine I seized? Which would be easier? The current one has 140 thousands miles on it.. it sucks not knowing exactly what to do. I don't wanna part with my baby I always think I can till I see it again and I'm desperate to get it running again I know it's worth it

 

Buy a JDM swap. Try jdmenginescorp.com or HMO or other retailers. FWIW, I've gotten quite a few very clean H/K/B series engines from jdmenginescorp. A B18 non vtec with low miles from an importer should be like $700-900 shipped.

Rebuilding a B18B is for fruitcakes. Just throw a longblock in there. Go about your life.

 

But bro... don't you know "rebuild' is the new JDM fanboy buzzword, finna rebuild my GSR with forged internals for bewwwwsttt or i'm going "boosted" next year bro.

 

Lol. Crazy that people are still using B series engines.

 

We broke....

 

LOL bewwwwwssttt


Owe dont count out the B series! well built B series are great engines. My 1.8L ITR engine is a blast to drive N.A and with the Pro Charger i have on its even funner. Its outdated by the K of course but doesnt mean these engines are out of demand. Im sure when the price tag on K swaps/conversions comes down for the average consumer it will really dwarf the B series to the point of extinction but i dont see that hapening for a long time.

 

I got nothin but love for the B series. I'm saying that its crazy (amazing) that after being around for 25 years, from a company known to change engine families quickly, its still a relevant engine.

But...now that I own a K24 swapped car...as well as a few factory K cars,...I'm really loving the K series a lot

 

I kept the B series for a few reasons:

I can rebuild it the way I want for pennies in comparison to a K swap (Assuming a proper K swap is still pushing $5k-$6k. I'm not talking about the K20A3/Z3 either, that's a waste of your money *This is my opinion*. I built a simple B18C1 motor 4 years ago that the FG boys couldn't understand why it kept up. Here's what it had - Type R cams, 2 1/2 exhaust, JDM header, 9lb flywheel)

When building and trying to stay in original form, a K changes that obviously.

Fun Fact:
2.0L 197 hp - K20Z3
170 hp - Stock B18C1
~183 hp - Stock B18C1 with Type R cams

 

it should, but why go through the hassle of swapping over obd2 compliant parts.

Put it this way, if that replacement doesn't have the same parts as the current engine in your car, than you'll have to swap it over.

 

Well...a STOCK Z3 is 197HP by new SAE standards. If it were being measured the same way as the B18, it may be something like 210.

Beyond that, the K series makes power for more of the power band, has closer gear spacing (assuming you're using a K20 6spd trans), has more available torque at any given time, and looking at it sideways seems to make ridiculous amounts of power.

For example:
A reflash for a stock K24A2 with an intake adds 30 midrange HP and 28 LBS of midrange torque while never reducing driveability or reliability. Infact...driveability improves. It takes away none of the refinement...and it is undectible until you step on the gas. You can still pass emissions testing (unsure about CA). And that's $300!!! And all you have to do is plug it in!!

You can then make close to 300whp without using any aftermarket engine parts. And still make torque.

K series swaps are expensive. But a 300whp B series engine with close to factory reliability would probably cost about the same. It would be boosted....which can be a boner killer.

The K series is definitely a better engine in every way that I can think of.

With a B series, you don't have the big lump of initial spending, which is why I believe it is still appealing. Along with the fact that you can use factory engine mounts/locations, and there is no cutting or fabricating involved in swapping over. Much more simple.

My solution would just be to buy a 8th gen Si, or 1G TSX, as they are now getting cheaper. That's one of the best bang-for-your-buck Hondas besides the S2000. You'd be hard pressed to find another car in the world that's as good of a value as a S2000, though.

 

If you want 300 hp, we can agree... the K series is likely a better starting point.

However, if you're serious about 300 hp, you don't exactly have an end budget in mind either.

My claim of the B18C1 vs the K20Z3 comes from real life driving, not something I heard. First through fourth gear, he was forced to look at me wondering why he couldn't just pull away.

Also, can you provide some more insight on the 300whp with no aftermarket engine parts.... I'm having a hard time putting that together. The K24 comes with 200hp, stock, to the flywheel not the wheels. The flash adds 23 horsepower to the wheels, as witnessed by their own tests (https://www.kseriesparts.com/cr/HD-K24A2.html).

They are not very forthcoming with their dyno results displayed there... Just a pretty graph with no information. They also mention, "The Hondata TSX reflash is designed for use with an intake and headers. It will work very well with a stock airbox and stock headers. Testing was done with a stock cat back system."

 

I think b-serious needs to be specific about the "aftermarket engine parts" are we talking pistons or mild bolt on's?. Here's how I would push "close" to 300whp on a stock k20z1 i'd run K-Pro and ID1000's with q16 race gas, that's not ideal at all but in terms of running down the 1320 it's ok. I know ID's are aftermarket but how else would I run q16 race gas is magic

 

No aftermarket ENGINE parts. And I was talking about a K24. You just mix the right combination of stock Honda OEM cams, head, timing wheels, manifolds, etc. onto a 2.4L block. Obviously, you'd need bolt-ons and tuning, and a few external components. I beleive honda tuning put together a TSX as a dyno mule to show the capability of the K24A2.

There was a dude selling a mostly stock K20Z3 or Z1 equipped ITR that was putting down 280whp. I'll never find the ad.

None of this relates to this thread, BTW. I feel bad for the OP. He probably got conned into some chain-shop "rebuilt" B18 for $2500.

"Always bet on black" - Wesley Snipes.
"Always throw in a longblock" - B serious.

 

What caused the engine to seize? I'd pull the head and the oil pan and see what happened. It may be a lot cheaper to rebuild and you'd have a brand new engine to beat on

 

Your car doesn't weigh the same as an Si. Pretty easy equation. Stock FG/FA's aren't impressively fast. But they're equipped with all the right things to make power for minimal money. And a LSD trans. An Si with an LSD trans...and actual power and performance built in...first time ever.

If you're racing a stock FG with your 180 something WHP 90's civic/integra...then...yeah, yours will be faster.

A stock FG is a little slower than a stock ITR.

If we're comparing apples to apples, the K series wins. If you had two 2300LB cars, both making 200whp (N/A), the stock K series car would effortlessly destroy the loud, strained out, built B18 car.

Making power is easier with a K series. It makes more power to start with.

Reliability and refinement at 200whp...the K series is still yawning. The B series is using more hamsters than it can cash checks to feed.

Again...the B series is a great engine and I hope to see it used for a long time. But the advantages of K series engines is impossible to ignore or refute. K swaps aren't $20k anymore, like they used to be a few years ago.

 

A siezed engine cannot always be rebuilt. If the main bearing or block was damaged, for example.

It will be MUCH more expensive to rebuild an engine. Labor to remove. Labor/parts to rebuild. Labor to install. A low mileage JDM longblock is $800 on average. If it costs more than $800 to rebuild the engine (it will), then the cost of rebuilding is higher.

It will be less reliable to have a motor that was not factory built/assembled.

 

That's why I was curious in what caused it to seize. If it was me I would tear into it and find out. I disagree in saying it wouldn't be as reliable. The reliability of a rebuilt engine is all in the clearances, oil supply and hone.

 

I read down further and know you have respect for the B-series.....but I'm driving/renovating a 25 year old LS, that when I purchased it 3 years ago, was all original, except for a few normal replacements like axles, idler pulley, brakes. I have all the receipts for the one owner car. The only reason they sold it for $500, was due to two hail storms that put 125 dents on it.

Quite a car to last that long, but it only had 145k miles on it. 168k now. Long way to go.

Looks better now.



My advice, tear it down if you want to learn, but I'd go JDM with the same OBD.

.