Ok so just put a B18c in my teg ..
-New Distributor
-New Main relay
Have good fuel pressure, Spark, Checked my Map sensor and TPS both were working just fine, New spark plugs, Checked resistance in spark wires and they were fine .. BUT .. The motor is hard to start and once it does start if I try and rev it past 2k it just dies like it's not getting fuel (Doesn't backfire like I guess it would if it were getting to much fuel). The motor doesn't just shut off tho .. It kinda bogs down and shakes before it dies .. Really the only things left it can be that I haven't checked would be the O2 sensor or the fuel system some where ... BUT I HAVE NO CEL .. Anyone have any ideas .. Something is up with the A/F mixture It idiles ok doesn't sound that bad at all .. The motor just can't keep up when I try and give it gas .. I wouldn't say it's missing .. it's not just one cylinder the whole motor is getting bad information from something I just can't find where ... Could a faulty O2 sensor really shut a car down like that .. I thought the computer would just run on a open loop if it was totally gone .. This just isn't making any sense any more ..

 

Did you check to ensure the timing was all lined up with the marks? Is everything connected right?

 

is it all stock??? stock fuel rail?? stock injectors??? my 3000gt did the same thing and it ended up being a very small, and i mean very small gas leak right before the fuel rail.

 

you are describing the EXACT same issue with my EK LS swap. Idles fine, even will drive OK at about 2K then when i give it gas its rich and sputters and almost fights me on the pedal. I figured it HAS to be a fuel issue. But i also would like some input as to whether it could be a timing issue, fuel or sensor issue. All of which are eazy to check, but i dont have a volt meter, but i do have a CEL reader. bad news is, no CEL.

I hope you figured it out OP and then i can use the same answer to solve mine.

 

might be that you have the map switched with the tps.
reset the ecu, and just unplug the ecu and replug after 2 min.

 

FIXED! drove to shop. car died on the road. got towed to shop annnnnnd.

pulled the dizzy cap off and it was destroyed in there! white powder from the screw being destroyed. it was amazingly awful inside there. replaced the cap and the rotor and BAM worked perfectly.

check your dizzy! just pull the three screws holding the cap on, open her up and look for the little screw that is holding the rotor on. make SURE its there.

 

Yea I it was my distributor .. I repined an OBD1 harness to fit the Type R which is OBD2 and when I did I messed up with one pin .... I checked it a thousand times I don't know how I didn't see it .. RUNS STRONG NOW .. This was my frist vtec swap .. and I must say no other vtec is anything like the JDM TYPE R it's awesome ..

 

I don't know about your area but most of the auto parts stores around here don't even come with the screw anymore when you buy a new rotor.. funny thing is they use too but i just wanna vent about that little damn screw LOL