ok i need some info on trying to figure this out. I had swapped out my RS machine gsr regrind cams to my stock gsr's, and apparently i shot timming and now i'm way off, i'm like at 7 degrees from the red hash mark (16 deg). I've already checked the camgears, there lined up correctly along w/ the white hash mark on the crankpulley (tdc), swapped out ecu's and it still doing it. Before i did the cam swap timing was dead on 16 deg.


Modified by jspec-integ Ls at 2:24 AM 10/19/2006

 

loosen the bolts on your distributor and move it back or forward until you get 16 deg.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR#132 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">loosen the bolts on your distributor and move it back or forward until you get 16 deg. </TD></TR></TABLE>


bwhahaha....so true.

 

yeah true but that's one of the things i have already done, bolts are all loose, and distributor is facing all the way towards the front of the car and timing is still way off like i said before at 7 deg. I mean i'm thinking my crankpulley key must of broke in half or something and i has to pull the pulley but apparently 625 lbs. of torque isn't good enough. Anybody in seattle, wa area wanna give me hand and loosen this bolt for me?

 

Hold your horses, I wouldn't pull the crank pulley just yet.

how do you know it's exactly 7 degrees off? are you using a timing gun with degree marks on it?


btw before you adjust the dizzy you have to short out the ecu connector with a paperclip. you can find it above the passenger side kickpanel

 

i did jumped the ecu w/ a paperclip and ran the motor to operating temps. I also used a timing gun w/ timing marks, that's how i found out i'm at 7 deg.

 

so what happened when you rotated the distributor? you're saying the timing didn't change when you moved the dizzy?

 

when i rotated the dizzy back and forth it moves but my only problem is it doesn't go to 16 deg on the red hash mark on the pulley, i have it all the way towards the front of the car and it's only half way there inbetween 16 deg. and tdc. If i go the other way towards the firewall it goes toward tdc. This is where i'm stuck at.

 

That's odd. When you rotate it towards the firewall it should be advancing, and when you rotate the dizzy to the front it should be retarding the timing, not the other way around.


Did you connect the timing gun to the #1 spark plug wire?

 

If your dizzy is pointed all the way to the front of the car it is running retarded all the way, towards the firewall is advancement.


Good luck

 

Just like the last 2 post said, towards the firewall will put it closer to where it needs to be....not further away like you're saying.

 

just clock it the whole way towards the firewall, itll be fine.

 

your timing belt is prolly off a tooth

 

i know that if i rotate the dizzy toward the firewall it's advanced and toward the front of the car is retard. The only thing that get's me is that if i have the hash marks lined up correctly on the cam gears, the timing light won't let me reach 16 deg, and that's when i have to retard the dizzy and it only reaches inbetween the tdc and the 18 deg hash mark. Now if i retard the intake cam gear 1 tooth, i'm able to set the ignition at 16 deg towards the firewall but i'll overlapping my cams and backfiring. So this is where i'm stuck at.

 

bump

 

well maybe both cams need to be turned one tooth. If you cant get the dizzy to turn enough it has to be the cam timing.

 

well cam timing is perfect i know because i had both hash marks on the cam gears line up. I also turned the crank one full rotation and they lined up at the marks. And this was all done at tdc on the crank.

 

Check the gears again, see if it all still lines up. Rotate the engine several times and make sure it stays lined up.

Also, are you using a regular inductive timing light, or a timing light w/ advance **** on the back?

If you're using one with advance, you need to set the **** to 16 on the light, and then line up the TDC mark, NOT the red marks on the crank pulley.

 

ok swapped out the stock gsr's to my rs machine regrind gsr's, i still have the same results. I used the timing light w/ the advance **** on the back. The red mark is 16deg. I know how to shoot timing, but i have a big hunch that my crank pulley moved and that the woodruff key is fucked. I'll be checking this out next.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jspec-integ Ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok swapped out the stock gsr's to my rs machine regrind gsr's, i still have the same results. I used the timing light w/ the advance **** on the back. The red mark is 16deg. I know how to shoot timing, but i have a big hunch that my crank pulley moved and that the woodruff key is fucked. I'll be checking this out next.</TD></TR></TABLE>

right, so if you're going by the red marks on the crankshaft, that means you have the advance **** set to zero on the timing gun, right? If you set the **** to 16, then you need to line up the white TDC mark on the crank.

 

no i never did it that way before i've always had the **** on 16 deg and set it on the red mark. and it always worked until now.

 

that's why it's not showing correctly. If you set the **** on 16, you have to line up the TDC mark. My timing light has no advance ****, and I use the red marks.

That's the advantage of having a timing light with advance. You can set the **** to whatever setting you like, and then line up the TDC mark to set it. You don't have to go by the factory timing marks, in fact some cars don't even have them.

 

thanks alot for the advice man, saved me alot of headache trying to figure out y it's not lining up right. I just set the timing to 18 deg instead of the 16.