Dieing Battery!!!!!
My battery wont stay chargerd I will jump it . It will start fine the volt meter will read 13.6- 14.0 . If I turn the car off it will be completely dead in about 15min and do nothing. This is really pissing me off I dont know where to look.
Alternator. I'm 99.9999999999999% sure. Alternators recharge the battery via that belt off your crank pulley. It spins while the engine is on in order to recharge the battery under operation. If the alternator dies your battery will not recharge. Thus, the battery dies.
If the battery is at 14V while the car is running the alternator IS charging thus working. You have a parasitic draw on the battery most likely. Meaning something is draining the battery, could be as small as .050 amps which will drain the battery as fast as your stating. Find the draw
Modified by ForceFed_Motorsports at 6:21 PM 7/19/2007
Modified by ForceFed_Motorsports at 6:21 PM 7/19/2007
Thats what I was thinking is there any suggestions on what and where to look . Is there any stock parts that could do this or should I look at only my after market parts.
how old is the battery? if it is more than 5-7 years old it may just be time to replace it
also, how do the terminal connections look? are they clean or correded? that could cause voltage leaking
what aftermarket parts have you added? do you have gauges connected straight ot the battery instead of through an ignition activated signal? may be drawing from that
do you have a sub/stereo mods? check the wires on that
if you think it may be the alternator, take it to napa or autozone, they can test it for free
do you have an underdrive pully on the alt?
alarm system that draws a lot of power?
that's all i can think of now.....
also, how do the terminal connections look? are they clean or correded? that could cause voltage leaking
what aftermarket parts have you added? do you have gauges connected straight ot the battery instead of through an ignition activated signal? may be drawing from that
do you have a sub/stereo mods? check the wires on that
if you think it may be the alternator, take it to napa or autozone, they can test it for free
do you have an underdrive pully on the alt?
alarm system that draws a lot of power?
that's all i can think of now.....
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I only have turbo timer boost gauge and exhaust temp gauge and alarm but they are all wired into the ECU I guess thats where I will start . I will go back and soider all my connections.
Easiest way to check for parasitic drains are to put your multimeter on the battery and start pulling fuses, when the amps clears to 0 you know you found the circuit which is draining the battery
Changed for future reference
Modified by ForceFed_Motorsports at 6:21 PM 7/19/2007
Changed for future reference
Modified by ForceFed_Motorsports at 6:21 PM 7/19/2007
well with the parasitic loss you'll have atleast some loss for the ecu so it won't read 0. Also it's amps your looking for not volts when doing the parasitic draw. Draw refers to amps. You'll have to use either a digital volt/ohm meter that 99% of the time also have an amp meter in them. Switch the red to the amp side, black stays in the common. Place in series when testing, meaning the black probe goes on the top of the (-) battery terminal, the positive probe will be help with the (-) terminal clamp that you'll be loosening and lifting up/hovering over the terminal, not touching the black (-) probe.
The ignition must be off. Then start pulling fuses from the fuse box and when you see a drastic fall in amps that's where you should start your diag.
The range for most hondas is in the neighborhood of say 15 to 30 milliamps. That's a rough estimate.
Load test the battery before you do all that because if your reading high enough voltage with the car on the alt. is charging. But your battery may have a failing cell.
Best way is a battery tester that will test cca.
Hope it helps
The ignition must be off. Then start pulling fuses from the fuse box and when you see a drastic fall in amps that's where you should start your diag.
The range for most hondas is in the neighborhood of say 15 to 30 milliamps. That's a rough estimate.
Load test the battery before you do all that because if your reading high enough voltage with the car on the alt. is charging. But your battery may have a failing cell.
Best way is a battery tester that will test cca.
Hope it helps
its probably the battery i had the same problem but when i got my teg it was sitting for a month so at first i though the alternator went bad changed it and same situation... got it check and went to buy new battery and now it starts every time and the alternator was still good
Wow had a brain fart there. Thats correct it is amps your looking for... i believe its .050 amps thats the maximum draw allowable. Load testing the battery is a good option as well as stated. Sorry for the confusion.
I went through 2 batterys so im thinking its not the battery. Thanks for all the suggestion will try all of them till I get to the problem,
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