Preferio

Driving down the road at about 4500 and the car starts bogging down, i left off the throttle and all is fine.. Then i push down on the throttle again. and it bogs down again.. so i let off the gas, this time it dies.. i coast into a parking lot. Then i try again. it just starts up, then dies, starts, then dies... so I let it sit for like 10 minutes, then try again, this time, it starts, idles, so i rev it up a little and its fine until it hits about 4, then dies out again. tried to start it, starts, then dies... so I push it across the parking lot to a lit spot, adn just try one more time.. this time it starts, and i let it idle for a min, then put it in gear and cirlcle around the parking lot twice, then it dies... so I let it sit for about 5 minutes, start it up, let it idle, and then it makes it back to my apartment fine. when i get there, it dies in the parking spot. any ideas?!?

IntegraTypeRob

This sounds like the Accord I used to have. I drove it down the street one day and it died. I tried to start it up and it wouldn't start up. I waited a few minutes and then it started up, drove for about a min, then it died again. I took it to the shop and they told me I needed a new distributor. It sounds similar, but it might be something different on your car. Check your distributor though.

Atheist

I was going to sat dizzy as well, but when it dies, does the duel pumps till prime when you turn the key?

Backk InTheDA

Yeah, if you here your fuel pump prime, that means your main relay is working, which i was going to associate this with, until you said it died at like 4k, because if the main relay is bad, it will start, then die right away.

But definately check the dizzy, doesn't sound like your getting a spark.

Good luck

Preferio

yeah, you can hear the fuel pump when you turn the ignition on... so it's not that... i was also thinking the distributor... i was hoping it wasn't... but since you guys say this to, it makes me worry... it stalled out a little today, just for a second... then i dind't have any problems after that until tonight... it started doing this right after i got gas... but i still think it might be the distribuotr... could it be the module maybe? i know that if they get hot, they will shut your car down... and after you let them cool, it'll start up...

oldtegskoo90

i had the same thing, plus misfire at 3.5k rpm, which made it a bitch to drive normal. i got it all fixed now, wat i did was changed the coil, and dizzy cap, and ignition module, sparkplugs, and sparkplug wires. even tho, some of these wasnt necessary to replace i did it anyways, but change the cap and coil, and if it does it again then change the igntion control module, cuz the cap is wayy cheaper then the module, but the coil and module are close in pricing. keep us posted on the progress

phateless

igniter (ICM - Ignition Control Module), or possibly the coil, but sounds more like the igniter to me. the coil usually just goes out completely when it goes. igniter should run you about $80 at the dealer.

Preferio

i am glad that others think it might be the ignition module... my cost on it at work is like $40... I am going to go ahead and get one because everything else is new,(ignition wise) escept for the dist. itself.... i.e. plugs, wires, cap, coil, rotor... I have heard a lot of people that msd has a problem with their ignitions going out... i've had mine going on two years now.. could that be a possibility?

rkrone

when i was changing my intake manifold i noticed that the throttle position sensor could be the cause, i left it unplugged, it would start, then when i gave it gas it would rev up to 3.5 then almost start to go down

make sure all you connections are good, pull your spark plugs and see what they look like, you said they were all new, for how long? make sure they are all installed correctly

dirty air filter? really low on gas? battery terminals good? stupid things sometimes cause stupid problems

Preferio

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rkrone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i was changing my intake manifold i noticed that the throttle position sensor could be the cause, i left it unplugged, it would start, then when i gave it gas it would rev up to 3.5 then almost start to go down
</TD></TR></TABLE> That is actually the first thing I checked. I made sure it somehow didn't come lose, or the wires hadn't somehow touched something got enough to melt them. That is what it acted like though, like I had left the TPS unplugged. And I've checked everything else. Other than the module, and of course Autometer doesn't have a wiring harness for my ignition module, so I can't take it to work and test it.

Preferio

bump... i put on new wires and new plugs because i had them laying around... no check engine light is on... if it were the distributor, would i get a misfire code?

Preferio

bump again.... put in new module... nothing different...

Gee3

Did you check the coil and ignitor to see if they are still good? From what I've read it sounds like the ignitor (ICM) which is about $170 at Acura/Honda. A coil will run about $70-80.

Do a search on checking ignitors and coils.

Distibutorking.com sells new one's for a little over 2 bills. You may want to look into that since a dizzy is not much more than the ignitor, if that's the problem.

Good luck!

Preferio

yeah. by module, i mean ignitor....

Gee3

OIC... Hhhmmm... Do you have the iginiton box or the external coil setup or both? I was told by an MSD tech that if you run just the external coil you'll need to get an inline ballast resistor (msd PN8214 or a .7 or .8 ohm ballast resistor at your local parts store). Not sure if it goes on the Neg or Pos wire form the coil wires though. I think Neg but don't quote me on that.

I'm not sure what else it could be... You may have to dish out the $$ to get it looked at by a good mechanic.

nub.96ek

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phateless &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">igniter (ICM - Ignition Control Module), or possibly the coil, but sounds more like the igniter to me. the coil usually just goes out completely when it goes. igniter should run you about $80 at the dealer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Happened to 2 of my Hondas... your best bet is one of these.

Preferio

welll... i put a new ignitor in.. nothing happened... so.. i have heard that msd's have a bad reputation to go out.. so i disconnected my igniton(full ignition) and put everything back factory... and it is still doing the same thing...

Preferio

bumpity bump! i need this thing figured out... so i can fix it...

98b18black

ttt help the guy

Preferio

what ecu do i have? whats the code..p74/75?


Modified by 95IntegraLSR at 8:17 PM 7/28/2005

motoman

This sounds like an intermittent ground. Try looking at the main ground for the ecu.

phateless

main relay?

PnX-R

Sounds like the infamous coil-ignitor problem.

You're driving and the engine bay gets hot. Ignitor-coil cuts out and you have no spark therefore you bog at a certain rpm. Then all of a sudden the ignitor/coil go out instantly and you're stuck coasting. Engine bay cools down and ignitor/coil works again.

Personally, I would try and replace the coil first it and then go from there.

Customer's car, I'd replace both and call it a day.

phateless

+1. do that and report back.

oldtegskoo90

yup sounds like the coil to me, it left me stranded many of times, and the next day the module went out! lol that was one long *** 5 days!