GreatWave

iTrader: (5)

I've had oxygen sensors cause that same problem and never throw a code, so there's that possibility.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

That's what i've read, most things point to O2 sensors, so hopefully its the lack of the secondary one and not that i need to replace the primary one that is brand new lol.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

I picked up the teg Friday after work from the local shop that fabbed up my catalytic converter for me. The price was a little higher than i was expecting, but it looks great. It looks like it came that way from the factory. I'll have to snap a better picture of it next time i'm under the car. The set up isnt perfect, but that would be my fault for getting a 2.5" universal OBD2 cat. The placement of the O2 sensor port is a little weird, they messed with it for about 3 hours to get the placement right so the sensor and the wires didn't interfere with anything. So i picked up the car, and i brought one of my co-pilots with me:



The car sounds SO much better with a cat, the exhaust is still a little loud, but not nearly as annoying as before. Once the car warmed up to operating temperatures, it did the weird misfire thing and would eventually work itself out of it. I had a hard time believing it was the O2 sensor since its new, but i decided to unplug the primary sensor to see what would happen. Obviously it through a CEL for the sensor, but it did not do the weird misfire thing again. So, possibly bad sensor? I'm going to double check my wiring where i wired in the A/F gauge to make sure that connection is good. If that connection is good and if i test drive it again and it misfires again, I'll order a new primary O2 sensor.

Also, i finally preloaded the suspension. That was a royal pain in the *** lol. But, everything feels much much better now. I found one bolt i didn't tighten, so that explains the clanking i heard up front. After preloading the suspension, The car now sits correctly.


so hopefully no working OT this week and i can narrow down the possible sensor issue tomorrow so i can grab a new sensor if need be and get this thing legal this week.

tony_2018

resonator, need it if you want to make it even more quiet. I had to get it replaced on the db7 before passing inspection. NOTICABLE DIFFERENCE.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

It has a small resonator in the system, but it has a fart cannon style muffler (came with the piping) so its tolerable for now. i can only imagine how loud this thing would be with the silencer out

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

I forgot to update this. I plugged the O2 sensor back in and disconnected the A/F gauge. I drove for about 15 miles and had zero issues. So the gauge must have had a bad connection at the wire. Just to verify, the o2 sensor wire i want to be tapping is the large white wire on the "d" plug of the ecu, correct? I can't recall what pin # it is, but i think it is the only white wire on that plug.

The car gets dropped off of for state inspection and for a four wheel alignment next Tuesday, so after that i can start driving (legally) as much as I want. I'm going to keep my trips short for now to sort out any possible issues. Since i basically disassembled the entire car minus a few items, after how many miles should I get back under the car and go over all of the bolts to make sure they are tight?

tony_2018

Yes,

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

I moved the car out of the garage so i could do a good cleaning of the garage. I also took the opportunity to wash the car and get some of the crap that has just fallen and laid on it for the last 3 years. Couple quick pics outside:





I;m still fighting this leak....I dont think it is coming out of the hose, I think it is coming from the fitting. I'm wondering if i need a new hose to block piece?


I also went to clean up the interior a bit, get all of the dust and debris out of there. I saw a bunch of specs on the dashboard. These are from when i used a flap disc to grind out all of the undercoating in the car. It splattered all over the dash. I tried purple power, I tried goo gone, and I tried a couple of other cleaners. This stuff won't come off. The goo gone actually took some of the shine out of the dash, so I do not want to use that anymore. Any ideas on how to get these guys off?

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

Did you try WD40 or tar remover? WD40 isn't really great at much but it does take sticky goo off of stuff better than you'd think.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

I never really thought to use wd40. I have some so i'll give that a shot before i buy some tar remover.

i was also thinking maybe brake cleaner on a rag?

tony_2018

Yeah, using that disc probably melted the floor stuff which is probably hardened on the dash now.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

You're right, it probably did. I think i'll take my heat gun on the low setting and try it in one area and see if heating it up helps loosen things up

tamboo

lookin great man!
acetone might also work but test a small area first.
got some kind of weird superglue-like goop on my glasses
(plastic lenses)
a few years ago and cheap nail polish remover
took it off like some kind of miracle.
cant wait for the champagne finish to this comeback! 8)

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

i do have some acetone too. I will definitely test a small area first, i dont wanna ruin anymore of the dashboard lol.

Integra is dropped off for inspection, hopefully it passes. I'm a little worried how they will feel about the side that still needs the quarter replaced. I found a guy parting out a 97 gsr, i'm going to go snag a couple parts off of it tomorrow after work. Some misc. interior odds and ends, the core support so i can replace mine at some point and maybe the hood will close correctly, and maybe the front bumper. It looks like it is in way better shape than mine.

Can;t wait to get some miles on this car and just enjoy it. Paint next year for sure so it won't look so goofy lol.

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

You need to be careful with acetone, it will ruin the finish on most plastics almost instantly.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

Good point, i'll make sure i test all of these ideas on some small areas first.

I scored some parts from a guy parting out a DC2. i got a new oem hood, new oem front bumper with turn signals brackets and rubber insert, and the front core support. The hood is in way, way better shape than mine, same with the bumper. and for the price i paid for all 3, i couldnt pass up new oem parts. it was dark and rainy, so i couldnt quite tell the color. they are either clover green pearl or cypress green pearl.

tony_2018

Next option is to repaint it the same color... what was the vinyl spray...SEM. thats it.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

Turns out the bumper and hood are the same color. I'm gonna store the new to me bumper in the top of my garage until all of the body work and paint prep is done on the car. I'll just rock the broken semi repaired one on the car now. And one pic:



One quick pic. Got about 250 miles on the car now since the project began. Taking her to work again today, and probably for the rest of the week.

GreatWave

iTrader: (5)

Looks good Dante

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! How is your project coming along?

GreatWave

iTrader: (5)

Hoping to get the swap done this weekend. I've been wrapping up a few odds and ends and working on a few cars for friends, so I haven't had a chance to work on my own stuff lol. Hoping it all goes smoothly!

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

So, I'm going to try and get to work on the A/C stuff in the car now that i've seen the weather that we have coming up. The compressor leaked out all of it's oil, and thanks to Tamboo i have a new to me compressor i can install. I hooked a gauge up on my car to see if it was reading anything in the lines, it was reading a hair above zero psi on the gauge. I'm debating if i should take the car somewhere to have it all evacuated or assume the gauge is accurate and just start disconnecting stuff. If the A/C compressor doesnt engage, will those A/C gauges read accurately? I'm assuming the compressor isnt engaging due to no oil and no refrigerant in the lines.

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

Dang it's really starting to come together! That new hood is a huge improvement.

HFC134A is around 60-80 PSI at room temperature so if it's reading barely above zero then it's almost empty. If you haven't already, you need to find the source of the leak and fix it before you get it recharged, otherwise it will all just leak right out again. Chances are since it's been sitting so long that most of the seals are dried out by now so it might be best just to order a bunch of new O-rings from Honda and replace them all in one go since the rings themselves are cheap, then take it to a shop to have it pressure tested and recharged, it shouldn't be more than $100 or so, I paid $80 about a year ago.

DISREGARD As for the compressor not engaging, that sounds like something else. The compressor should engage regardless of whether there's oil or refrigerant present unless it's seized up or the clutch is busted.

danteisme

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! I'm so glad i found that CL ad for the other hood an bumper.

I bought a seal kit and a new drier from rock auto to be replaced along with the compressor. I suspect i know where the leak is if it isnt just an o ring. There is zero clearance between my exhaust manifold and the one A/C line. after i swap out the compressor and all of the parts, my next stop was going to be the shop up the street from my work to test it and recharge it.

Really? I thought i read that the ac will not engage unless it is properly charged. The pulley spins fin but the clutch doesnt engage.

MotorMouth93

iTrader: (1)

I didn't think our cars had a low pressure switch in the AC but after further research it appears that you are correct and the compressor will not cycle when pressure is too low.