I've got data that shows this:

Damper Mounting Self-Locking Nut 22 ft.lbs

Damper Lower Mounting Bolt 40 ft.lbs

Damper Mounting Base Nuts 29 ft.lbs



I'm looking for the torque of the single nut and bolt that connects the damper fork to the front LCA.

I have what appears to be self-locking nuts, I think it's 22 ft.lbs
I'm also thinking the Damper Lower Bolt is the one that keeps the strut tightened at the top of the fork 40 ft.lbs.

The base nuts? 29 ft.lbs, I don't have a clue.

Am I correct with the first 2?

Thanks!

 

40ft-lbs. although good and tight works fine as well if you're used to suspension components. 20-25 is like what you would do the 10mm fender bolts too or hand tight with a little 3/8 ratchet.

 

That seems reasonble to me, but I seen this mentioned several places.

"Damper Mounting Self-Locking Nut 22 ft.lbs"

I do have the OEM nuts, and the are self-locking.

No?.....or do they go some where else?

Many years ago when I started working on bikes and cars, I broke or stripped lots of bolts (mostly aluminum blocks), but it caused me to make a habit of using a torque wrench. Now, I don't even know what tight is.

 

I found it. It's 47 ft.lbs on the '90.

The pinch bolt is 32 ft.lbs.



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The damper self locking nut is the center nut for the top hat (14mm head).

The lower nut (17mm head) is not self locking from the factory. You either have an aftermarket nut...or a burr on the thread (incredibly common). Put the car on the ground before tightening that bolt, BTW.

I agree with using a torque wrench where you can. Good and tight isn't a universally acceptable spec for suspension bolts.

I also have a torque limited ingersoll impact. It stops at 50lbs-ft (reverse is around 300lb-ft or more). Great for snugging lug nuts and suspension bolts that are a bitch to tighten by hand. The lower damper fork is a bitch to tighten by hand with the car on the ground. Not that I'm saying its a necessary tool.

 

the pinch bolt will snap like a wet noodle if you overdo it.
ask me how i know this....i wasnt even trying very hard.

 

I just ordered and received two brand new ones from DelRay Acura. It's self-locking. It's OEM for a 1990.

"90215-SB0-003 NUT, SELF-LOCK (12MM) (CLINCH)(SATO RASHI)
90175-SH3-005 BOLT, SHOCK ABSORBER FORK"

This is what was on mine and what I bought and put back.

But I torqued it to 47, that's what I found in the book.

You're right though the 22 ft.lbs is the strut rod.

Yes, I knew about tightening the bushing on the ground, but I jacked them up instead (easier than crawling under the car). I really wanted to verify the torques, I think it's critical if you plan on keeping the car. The torques and other parts changed a lot after '90 on the DA. Acura started changing it the very next year in minor ways

I appreciate the input.
Sometimes it takes me a bit of time to research all this stuff....I also work 55+ hours a week.
...and sadly, I tend to look thru "alldata" which is poor on many detail. I have the original 1990 Acura Integra Service Manual (one owner & the manual was in the trunk), but the Japanese didn't put an index and finding some detail is ridicules, and the print is small. I should refer to it more often.




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