Converting Auto to Stick
I got a close friend that recently started working at a signature auto place and he told me I could get the labor done very cheap and proffessionaly all i need to do is buy the parts. I have a 95 Integra Ls Non-Vtec. Anyone tell me what exactly the right parts and maybe tranny I should swap with?
I'll be the first to say don't waste your time. Just sell it and buy a stick. May as well get a gsr while your at it.
Oh, and search next time. This has been covered a million times.
Oh, and search next time. This has been covered a million times.
you cant just tell him to do that...you dont know if he already has work in his car hes not willing to lose....if you have any work done...IE motor...body...audio....the swap is worth it...because you dont get that money back you already put in it...if its bone stock...then sell it
yeh is true i mean i got tein suspension, full stereo system, intake, headers, rims and tires, full catback exhaust, i also change both the headlights and taillights and put on a itr wing. I put as much money into it as the car costs. My friends is telling me he could get me a full tranny swap wit stage 2 clutch for liek about 600-800$ and maybe a full engine swap for about $1000
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lVlemphizStylez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant just tell him to do that...you dont know if he already has work in his car hes not willing to lose....if you have any work done...IE motor...body...audio....the swap is worth it...because you dont get that money back you already put in it...if its bone stock...then sell it</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea plus if you really like the car...lol, thats why i did it on my Da...but when i found out how extensive the body repair was gonna be due to rust , i swap everything from my auto Da chassis to a manual one...
for the auto - 5 swap...its really not that hard to do...just time comsuming
yea plus if you really like the car...lol, thats why i did it on my Da...but when i found out how extensive the body repair was gonna be due to rust , i swap everything from my auto Da chassis to a manual one...
for the auto - 5 swap...its really not that hard to do...just time comsuming
Trending Topics
he can buy an ls ecu for less than 100 bucks...and an ls tranny for like 300....if you see those wrecked ls's for 400 bucks...then go ahead...but if not...plz just look around and dont waste your money...itll take time to locate parts...i myself got a gsr tranny for 450....when everyone was like no they only go for like 650-800....heh damn that
yeh ima get a gsr tranny like 2-300$ and labor done cheap. Im holding out on parts i update as soon as i get it done thanks for the feedback guyz
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integra_dreamz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> full tranny swap wit stage 2 clutch for liek about 600-800$ </TD></TR></TABLE> id do it .
I'm new (first post actually), but I'll try not to act like a newb. You will probably find a better explanantion and more extensive detail if you search.
You will need: tranny, pedals, manual ecu, shift linkage, flywheel, clutch, and the zinger - welded tranny mounts. I may have forgotten something. I went to a well known honda mechanic in the area and was researching an auto-manual swap in an LS with a blown auto tranny. Just wasn't worth it. I was planning on finding a JDM ITR tranny (for the close ratios and high final drive), but the tranny and swap would have eaten half of my budget for the whole car.
You should be able to find a $2k 94 LS with okay miles if you are a real bargain hunter (and have a little experience in mechanics).
Overall, you can do the swap but it isn't worth the effort/cost in most cases.
My $0.02
You will need: tranny, pedals, manual ecu, shift linkage, flywheel, clutch, and the zinger - welded tranny mounts. I may have forgotten something. I went to a well known honda mechanic in the area and was researching an auto-manual swap in an LS with a blown auto tranny. Just wasn't worth it. I was planning on finding a JDM ITR tranny (for the close ratios and high final drive), but the tranny and swap would have eaten half of my budget for the whole car.
You should be able to find a $2k 94 LS with okay miles if you are a real bargain hunter (and have a little experience in mechanics).
Overall, you can do the swap but it isn't worth the effort/cost in most cases.
My $0.02
As said before....try to search some more.
I did a couple of them in my day, so I'll try to list what I remember:
1. Manual tranny from B-series motor.
2. Clutch assembly including flywheel, pressure plate, disc, etc.
3. Starter from manual B-series motor. The automatic one looks like it will fit, but the bolts do not match up.
4. Intermediary shaft/half shaft from a manual B-series motor. Don't remember if you need a driver's side axle from a manual car.
5. All the miscellaneous bolts/screws for the system to work.
6. Hard lines for the clutch fluid.
7. Master/slave cylinders.
8. Shift linkages, including the shift lever, boot, ****, etc.
9. Wiring harness for the reverse light.
10. Clutch pedal assembly.
11. Upper transmission mount. The upper mount (chassis and tranny) are different between the automatic and manual counterparts. You have a couple of choices. You can purchase custom ones from an aftermarket company. I don't know of any off hand that do this. When I did mine, there weren't any companies that had this available yet. You can also fabricate it yourself, which is what I did. You can also cut the chassis mount from the frame and reweld it to where the manual mount is supposed to be (slightly more forward on the frame).
Optional pieces:
1. Manual ECU. The automatic one will work, but you will throw a code 1660 for the automatic shifter solenoid. The solenoid must be secured in the "PARK" position so the key can be removed.
2. Manual center console. The automatic one is slightly different, but with minimal custom work (VERY minimal), it'll look just like stock.
3. Manual brake pedal. Large auto one still works/fits, but if you have big feet, it might get in the way.
4. Manual cluster. The manual one doesn't have the P, N, D, etc lights on there. Probably wise just to keep the original since it's really not a necessary piece anyway. Just remove the light bulbs from behind the cluster.
I believe that's all there is. There might be a couple more small things that I will add when I remember it.
I did a couple of them in my day, so I'll try to list what I remember:
1. Manual tranny from B-series motor.
2. Clutch assembly including flywheel, pressure plate, disc, etc.
3. Starter from manual B-series motor. The automatic one looks like it will fit, but the bolts do not match up.
4. Intermediary shaft/half shaft from a manual B-series motor. Don't remember if you need a driver's side axle from a manual car.
5. All the miscellaneous bolts/screws for the system to work.
6. Hard lines for the clutch fluid.
7. Master/slave cylinders.
8. Shift linkages, including the shift lever, boot, ****, etc.
9. Wiring harness for the reverse light.
10. Clutch pedal assembly.
11. Upper transmission mount. The upper mount (chassis and tranny) are different between the automatic and manual counterparts. You have a couple of choices. You can purchase custom ones from an aftermarket company. I don't know of any off hand that do this. When I did mine, there weren't any companies that had this available yet. You can also fabricate it yourself, which is what I did. You can also cut the chassis mount from the frame and reweld it to where the manual mount is supposed to be (slightly more forward on the frame).
Optional pieces:
1. Manual ECU. The automatic one will work, but you will throw a code 1660 for the automatic shifter solenoid. The solenoid must be secured in the "PARK" position so the key can be removed.
2. Manual center console. The automatic one is slightly different, but with minimal custom work (VERY minimal), it'll look just like stock.
3. Manual brake pedal. Large auto one still works/fits, but if you have big feet, it might get in the way.
4. Manual cluster. The manual one doesn't have the P, N, D, etc lights on there. Probably wise just to keep the original since it's really not a necessary piece anyway. Just remove the light bulbs from behind the cluster.
I believe that's all there is. There might be a couple more small things that I will add when I remember it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lVlemphizStylez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant just tell him to do that...you dont know if he already has work in his car hes not willing to lose....if you have any work done...IE motor...body...audio....the swap is worth it...because you dont get that money back you already put in it...if its bone stock...then sell it</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most of the parts are probably bolt-on is why I said that. You can go out and get a loan for the car you want. Then you bring it home and switch all the parts. Sell the old car and pay off all or most of your loan. This way you get a big + on your credit for paying off a descent size loan and you get the car you want. The only thing you'll loose is a little time and maybe body mods if you have them.
Most of the parts are probably bolt-on is why I said that. You can go out and get a loan for the car you want. Then you bring it home and switch all the parts. Sell the old car and pay off all or most of your loan. This way you get a big + on your credit for paying off a descent size loan and you get the car you want. The only thing you'll loose is a little time and maybe body mods if you have them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






