compression test results
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: budd lake, nj, usa
Re: compression test results (D 2da A9)
you must have a very friendly compression tester, 205 is very very good...but the thing that matters most is that you held the same number across the board 
..get that lsvtec underway
..get that lsvtec underway
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From: around, ca, us
Re: compression test results (LSracing94)
ya, i hope i did it right. i held it at wot and took out the ecu fuse and unpluged the distributer. i cranked it untill the gauge stoped going up. is this correct?
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From: nc
Re: compression test results (M Coop)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M Coop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey CNSK, did you figure out why your car wouldn't start? Was it a relay?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its actually my civic swap that i had problem.....i can crank it now but still not the same....when i move my engine harness and ecu down at the bottom of the feet, it dies. Its kinda hard cause im running a p28 w/ hondata plus the jumper and its hard to stick it at the corner becuase those car run short ecu and im running the long ecu, so i have to jam the ecu up there, that cuases me to have faulty wire i believe, but which one? that my question... Also when I crank the engine when its dead cold..my engine makes loud knocking noise, stalls as i drive and idles up and down from 200 rpm to 2500. Ive adjust the tps sensor and cable line when it was warm and got it right at 1000 rpm but when i crank it cold, the rpm is at 1-200 rpm and dies. (fustrating) Now once its warm, it idles fine and no knock....Ive checked all possible solution i think...Ever since i changed the cam seal on the driver side and took off my timing belt, **** started to screw up......i check my timing and its correct also......but yes it does run but not normal....when i redline it cel pops up...when i turn it off and crank it back...cel goes away....confused....
its actually my civic swap that i had problem.....i can crank it now but still not the same....when i move my engine harness and ecu down at the bottom of the feet, it dies. Its kinda hard cause im running a p28 w/ hondata plus the jumper and its hard to stick it at the corner becuase those car run short ecu and im running the long ecu, so i have to jam the ecu up there, that cuases me to have faulty wire i believe, but which one? that my question... Also when I crank the engine when its dead cold..my engine makes loud knocking noise, stalls as i drive and idles up and down from 200 rpm to 2500. Ive adjust the tps sensor and cable line when it was warm and got it right at 1000 rpm but when i crank it cold, the rpm is at 1-200 rpm and dies. (fustrating) Now once its warm, it idles fine and no knock....Ive checked all possible solution i think...Ever since i changed the cam seal on the driver side and took off my timing belt, **** started to screw up......i check my timing and its correct also......but yes it does run but not normal....when i redline it cel pops up...when i turn it off and crank it back...cel goes away....confused....
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From: VA
Re: compression test results (CNSK)
Damn, now I understand why you're frustrated. Sounds like you're right about the wiring problem on the ECU, but as for the knocking sound, I'm kinda lost, I don't even know where to start. As for the stalling, did you put on and aftermarket intake and do away with the IAC? I'm working on my boy's Civic with GSR swap which doesn't want to start when it's cold and it's because he has an aftermarket intake. I'm determined to figure out a way to incorporate the IAC so it'll run when it's cold. Don't know if that's at all relevant but I thought I'd mention it. Good luck man, I would have ripped out all my hair by now if I were you. 
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From: nc
Re: compression test results (M Coop)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M Coop »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn, now I understand why you're frustrated. Sounds like you're right about the wiring problem on the ECU, but as for the knocking sound, I'm kinda lost, I don't even know where to start. As for the stalling, did you put on and aftermarket intake and do away with the IAC? I'm working on my boy's Civic with GSR swap which doesn't want to start when it's cold and it's because he has an aftermarket intake. I'm determined to figure out a way to incorporate the IAC so it'll run when it's cold. Don't know if that's at all relevant but I thought I'd mention it. Good luck man, I would have ripped out all my hair by now if I were you. </TD></TR></TABLE>
problem after problem....i think im gonna sell her...but ive invested so much money into her( close to 10 g's on motor and accesories).....thinking of that makes me not want to sell her and most of my parts has less then 5k miles on....
</TD></TR></TABLE>problem after problem....i think im gonna sell her...but ive invested so much money into her( close to 10 g's on motor and accesories).....thinking of that makes me not want to sell her
and most of my parts has less then 5k miles on....
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From: VA
Re: compression test results (CNSK)
Damn, man I'm sorry, that's almost enough to make me cry. So did you get rid of your IAC? Most aftermarket intakes don't allow for one, and that would definitely cause some idling problems when it's cold. Like I said, might not be relevant but since it's cold now the IAC would be more important than during the summer months.
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