Engine B18c1
Approximation 19x,xxx

skipped timing/misfire
#1 0 #2 180 #3 200 #4 190

Wet Compression:
#1 0 #2 200 #3 0 #4 240

cylinder 1 exhaust valves


cylinder 3 why the little leak? stems?

 

You're either not getting a seal on the compression tester or your engine is $*%&ed. If you think the test is correct don't even speculate -- just pull the head and have a look.

 

Well if those two cylinders were at 0 the car wouldn't even start. Borrow someone elses tester and do it again.

How many times do you let the engine turn over before reading the gauge? You should only have the engine crank over 3 times, then read the gauge.

 

You cant bend valves unless you skip your timing.

Sounds like a burnt exhaust valve to be honest....

Dry 200 to Wet 0 sounds messed up, I don't see how that is possible.

Redo the test on that cylinder. Wet test should always increase compression. I'd say its time for a rebuild.

 

not sure of wet numbers, but agree with ^ you probably have a burnt(cracked/chipped?) valve on #1. not sure of #3

 

ok thanks for the info guys. when i look inside exhuast side. i see the valves all wet on #1 and #3. #2 and #4 looks fine like it should. i think its bad stem seals on 3 and 1? and yes it skipped timing sorry for not giving that info.

 

Valve stem seals will not affect compression numbers. Valve seats wills. And if it skipped timing the valves are bent, and that is obviously what is causing no compression.

 

ok thank u much

 

A couple skipped teeth won't do any damage, but more than that and your compression will be off. With the inconsistency you've gotten I'm still not believing your numbers. Have you re-done the test?

 

not yet. i pulled the motor and swapped in my ls for daily driving. so i can just check the compression outside of the car. ill get back to you guys

 

ok checked exhuast ports and i see oil in #1 and #3...#2 and #4 are dry

 

Piston rings then. I would say valve seals but they wouldn't cause no compression.

 

but remember i skipped timing. so obviously the motor is out of time. and probably bent valves, which that could cause no compression.

 

Depends on how much. But slightly bent valves will not cause oil in the cylinder to the ports.

 

ok, valve cylinder one. exhaust is chipped. the block seems fine. is that the problem? lol noob question, and pretty sure those valves are burnt.

 

What about cylinder 3?

 

you didn't skip a tooth or two or else you wouldn't have 200psi in the good cylinders. when cam timing is off it effects compression numbers. what you likely did is what others have suggested, you chipped an exhaust valve. the most common cause of this is oil burning, it coats the valve in soot and reduces cooling on the seat and in the guide. inconel is incredible metal but even it can only take so many heat cycles. normally a bad tank of gas and detonation will frag an already weakened valve.

BE CAREFUL who have you have rebuild your cylinder head ! very easy to screw up a valve job on a honda head. shipping it off to endyn would be my choice.

 

noone rebuilt it. it was stock like that never touched. but its either me or imma have my professional buddy rebuild the valves and such. what else should i replace in the head?

 

He means be careful who you have rebuild the head, not who you had rebuild it. Have the valve seals replaced, and you aren't going to be able to do it yourself, neither is your buddy, your are going to need the new valves and valve seats machined, they are probably passed lapping.

 

^absolutely

you might be able to re machine the intake valves but you will be replacing ALL the exhaust valves. guides need to be checked for run out and like i said, be careful who you have do the machine work. either golden eagle or endyn would be my choice. there's a good chance your local machine shop will do the valve job wrong and they won't seal correctly. i've seen it more than once.

 

Head Games is where I get my stuff done, but I don't know what coast you are on.

 

im from wisconsin. yea i think theres only one place in town here that does hones and such. might just give them a call. but do i have to replace the guides if its not necessary?

 

Make sure they do a lot of hondas, if not send your head out somewhere, which I would recommend.

 

send your head here

http://www.theoldone.com/

it's SO easy to screw up a valve job on a vtec honda. unless you know for a fact they have rebuilt many vtec heads DO NOT CHANCE IT!

if you listen to this advice you will be time and money ahead. period.

call larry and ask about a basic rebuild. he can check your guides for run out and let you know if they need to be replaced or not. all you may need is 8 new exhaust valves and a valve job on the head. a typical vtec valve job is $175-225 and the exhaust valves are $30ea for oem or you can get a set of stainless from ferrera for 199 for all 16

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ferrea-5000-...#ht_3552wt_928

keep in mind the oem valves use an inconel face on the exhaust which is a stronger steel than stainless

i would absolutely chat with larry before you buy anything

 

thank you will do