Code 14 will not go away
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
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From: Tennessee
So I'm Swapping in a 97 spec jdm itr into a 94 integra RS..
I started the car up and im throwing 3 codes. code 14, code 6 & code 22.
The wrong plug for the IACV was plugged in so we plugged in the correct plug, reset the ecu.. Still code 14.
I took the IACV off my 2000 jdm itr engine and installed it. Reset ECU still code 14.. is it possible when the wrong plug was plugged in it messed up the ecu? I know for sure my IACV off my 2000 spec itr was working properly.
Code 6 - I noticed the plug in my harness got broken, will replace it and hopefully that fixes it.. There is nothing plugged into the water temperature sensor right now.. Would this affect the temp gauge inside the car? Because the one wire plug is plugged in and the needle is barely reading.
Code 22 - My 97 spec doesn't have a pressure switch, how can i disable this? Can it be done in crome?
( I guess my 2000 spec had a usdm vtec solenoid on it)
Any help is appreciated.
I started the car up and im throwing 3 codes. code 14, code 6 & code 22.
The wrong plug for the IACV was plugged in so we plugged in the correct plug, reset the ecu.. Still code 14.
I took the IACV off my 2000 jdm itr engine and installed it. Reset ECU still code 14.. is it possible when the wrong plug was plugged in it messed up the ecu? I know for sure my IACV off my 2000 spec itr was working properly.
Code 6 - I noticed the plug in my harness got broken, will replace it and hopefully that fixes it.. There is nothing plugged into the water temperature sensor right now.. Would this affect the temp gauge inside the car? Because the one wire plug is plugged in and the needle is barely reading.
Code 22 - My 97 spec doesn't have a pressure switch, how can i disable this? Can it be done in crome?
( I guess my 2000 spec had a usdm vtec solenoid on it)
Any help is appreciated.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
Yeah.. I believe i did have the wrong plug plugged in for the IACV.. I switched them around and it still didn't go away.
Could someone verify the color of the wires on the IACV connector?
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Ah man I can't help much, other than I know JDM ITR engines usually need the JDM ITR ECU due to the lack of a pressure switch on the side of the head. My buddy and I dropped a 99 JDM ITR B18C into his 96 hatch back in the day, and I remember him running the JDM ECU.
Other than that I don't know much.
Other than that I don't know much.
Code 14:
It is possible to fry an ECU by swapping sensor connectors, but first test the basics. The IACV gets voltage on the Yel/Blk wire from the main relay. Unplug the IACV, turn the key to ON(II), and then check whether this wire terminal has battery voltage to body ground.
The IACV Blk/Blu ground wire pins to ECU A12. Make sure this wire has continuity between the IACV clip and the ECU clip. Also make sure it has no short.
Code 6:
This code is for the 2-wire ECT sensor under the distributor and has nothing to do with either the cluster temp gauge or its 1-wire sending unit (also below the distributor).
Temp gauge:
Unplug the 1-wire sending unit and ground the wire on the engine. When the key is turned to ON(II), the temp needle of the gauge should rise toward HOT (turn off key before it gets there). If the needle rises as I mentioned, then the sending unit may be bad or your thermostat is stuck open. Otherwise, the temp gauge itself may be the problem.
It is possible to fry an ECU by swapping sensor connectors, but first test the basics. The IACV gets voltage on the Yel/Blk wire from the main relay. Unplug the IACV, turn the key to ON(II), and then check whether this wire terminal has battery voltage to body ground.
The IACV Blk/Blu ground wire pins to ECU A12. Make sure this wire has continuity between the IACV clip and the ECU clip. Also make sure it has no short.
Code 6:
This code is for the 2-wire ECT sensor under the distributor and has nothing to do with either the cluster temp gauge or its 1-wire sending unit (also below the distributor).
Temp gauge:
Unplug the 1-wire sending unit and ground the wire on the engine. When the key is turned to ON(II), the temp needle of the gauge should rise toward HOT (turn off key before it gets there). If the needle rises as I mentioned, then the sending unit may be bad or your thermostat is stuck open. Otherwise, the temp gauge itself may be the problem.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
Okay. I just want to make sure the FITV has even been bypassed properly.. (This is how a friend set it up) I've never done it before.
As you can see in this first pic.. there is no coolant hoses ran on the bottom of the throttle body.
As you can see in this first pic.. there is no coolant hoses ran on the bottom of the throttle body.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
Code 14:
It is possible to fry an ECU by swapping sensor connectors, but first test the basics. The IACV gets voltage on the Yel/Blk wire from the main relay. Unplug the IACV, turn the key to ON(II), and then check whether this wire terminal has battery voltage to body ground.
The IACV Blk/Blu ground wire pins to ECU A12. Make sure this wire has continuity between the IACV clip and the ECU clip. Also make sure it has no short.
Code 6:
This code is for the 2-wire ECT sensor under the distributor and has nothing to do with either the cluster temp gauge or its 1-wire sending unit (also below the distributor).
Temp gauge:
Unplug the 1-wire sending unit and ground the wire on the engine. When the key is turned to ON(II), the temp needle of the gauge should rise toward HOT (turn off key before it gets there). If the needle rises as I mentioned, then the sending unit may be bad or your thermostat is stuck open. Otherwise, the temp gauge itself may be the problem.
It is possible to fry an ECU by swapping sensor connectors, but first test the basics. The IACV gets voltage on the Yel/Blk wire from the main relay. Unplug the IACV, turn the key to ON(II), and then check whether this wire terminal has battery voltage to body ground.
The IACV Blk/Blu ground wire pins to ECU A12. Make sure this wire has continuity between the IACV clip and the ECU clip. Also make sure it has no short.
Code 6:
This code is for the 2-wire ECT sensor under the distributor and has nothing to do with either the cluster temp gauge or its 1-wire sending unit (also below the distributor).
Temp gauge:
Unplug the 1-wire sending unit and ground the wire on the engine. When the key is turned to ON(II), the temp needle of the gauge should rise toward HOT (turn off key before it gets there). If the needle rises as I mentioned, then the sending unit may be bad or your thermostat is stuck open. Otherwise, the temp gauge itself may be the problem.
My temperature gauge is barely moving up at all. I even thought maybe the sensor the one-wire plug was bad, so i removed the old one out of my engine and swapped it out.. still nothing.
You know how the single wire has that weird plug on the end? Are you suggesting i snip it off so i can have a bare wire to ground to something and see if the temperature gauge will rise up?
Below the red and blue lines show the normal coolant hose routing from the IACV to the FITV (red) and then from the FITV to a hard coolant line. The FITV bypass would be to run a hose or hoses (purple) that connect the IACV to the hard line, bypassing the FITV.
No don't snip it. Use a jumper wire to ground it to the engine. Also consider that the thermostat is bad (stuck open), preventing the engine from warming up to operating temp.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
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From: Tennessee
That hose i took a picture of used to have the hard line, but not it doesn't.. right? It comes off the back of the block and goes to the IACV bypassing the FITV.. So that appears to be right?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
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From: Tennessee
Which also makes sense as to why my heat is not as warm as it used to be?
Doh, I forgot you are using a JDM itr engine. Your engine doesn't have a FITV at all. Those two ports on the throttle body are just to warm the throttle body in freezing weather to aid in fuel atomization...
Here's some OBD1 civic/integra wire colors to the different sensors so you can double check...
IACV:
blue/yellow goes to pin A9 on ECU
yel/black goes to ign. power (check for pos 12v with KOEO)
EVAP PURGE:
red goes to A20 on ecu
yel/black goes to ign power (check for pos 12v with KOEO)
MAP:
yellow/red goes to D19 on ECU
white or pink/white goes to D17 on ECU
grn/white to D21 on ECU (sensor ground)
TPS:
yellow/white to D20 on ECU
red/blue to D11 on ECU
grn/ white to D21/D22 on ECU (sensor ground)
Intake Air Temp:
red/yellow to D15 on ECU
grn/white to D21/D22 on ECU (sensor ground)
Here's some OBD1 civic/integra wire colors to the different sensors so you can double check...
IACV:
blue/yellow goes to pin A9 on ECU
yel/black goes to ign. power (check for pos 12v with KOEO)
EVAP PURGE:
red goes to A20 on ecu
yel/black goes to ign power (check for pos 12v with KOEO)
MAP:
yellow/red goes to D19 on ECU
white or pink/white goes to D17 on ECU
grn/white to D21 on ECU (sensor ground)
TPS:
yellow/white to D20 on ECU
red/blue to D11 on ECU
grn/ white to D21/D22 on ECU (sensor ground)
Intake Air Temp:
red/yellow to D15 on ECU
grn/white to D21/D22 on ECU (sensor ground)
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
Doh, I forgot you are using a JDM itr engine. Your engine doesn't have a FITV at all. Those two ports on the throttle body are just to warm the throttle body in freezing weather to aid in fuel atomization...
Here's some OBD1 civic/integra wire colors to the different sensors so you can double check...
IACV:
blue/yellow goes to pin A9 on ECU
yel/black goes to ign. power (check for pos 12v with KOEO)
EVAP PURGE:
red goes to A20 on ecu
yel/black goes to ign power (check for pos 12v with KOEO)
MAP:
yellow/red goes to D19 on ECU
white or pink/white goes to D17 on ECU
grn/white to D21 on ECU (sensor ground)
TPS:
yellow/white to D20 on ECU
red/blue to D11 on ECU
grn/ white to D21/D22 on ECU (sensor ground)
Intake Air Temp:
red/yellow to D15 on ECU
grn/white to D21/D22 on ECU (sensor ground)
Here's some OBD1 civic/integra wire colors to the different sensors so you can double check...
IACV:
blue/yellow goes to pin A9 on ECU
yel/black goes to ign. power (check for pos 12v with KOEO)
EVAP PURGE:
red goes to A20 on ecu
yel/black goes to ign power (check for pos 12v with KOEO)
MAP:
yellow/red goes to D19 on ECU
white or pink/white goes to D17 on ECU
grn/white to D21 on ECU (sensor ground)
TPS:
yellow/white to D20 on ECU
red/blue to D11 on ECU
grn/ white to D21/D22 on ECU (sensor ground)
Intake Air Temp:
red/yellow to D15 on ECU
grn/white to D21/D22 on ECU (sensor ground)

I'm gonna stop by Acura tomorrow and see if they have a Thermostat in stock.. If they don't is there another i could use off another make/model that maybe the Honda Dealership would have?
Thanks for the information man, I really appreciate your all's help. I'm gonna start checking stuff out tomorrow.


In the mean time all other input/advice is still always greatly appreciated!
And by the way, the wire colors and hose routing I posted are for the stock USDM B18C5 engine/ECU. But it does sound like the FITV is properly bypassed, even though it appears that the B18C5 engine also lacks a FITV based on the diagram.
Yeah, it sounds like the thermostat is stuck open.
And by the way, the wire colors and hose routing I posted are for the stock USDM B18C5 engine/ECU. But it does sound like the FITV is properly bypassed, even though it appears that the B18C5 engine also lacks a FITV based on the diagram.
And by the way, the wire colors and hose routing I posted are for the stock USDM B18C5 engine/ECU. But it does sound like the FITV is properly bypassed, even though it appears that the B18C5 engine also lacks a FITV based on the diagram.
He gave you wire colors for an OBD2 ITR engine and ECU..
I gave you wire colors for an OBD1 wire harness and ECU..
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,521
Likes: 6
From: Tennessee
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