ok heres my problem after i drive my car for about a half hour to an hour my check engine light goes on and the car goes into limp mode where my rev limit is 3000 and it idles at 1500. when i shut the car off and jump the blue connector and then try to get a trouble code my check engine light stays solid and does not blink to give me a code. the other weird thing is that if i shut the car off and let it sit untill it completely cools down the check engine light goes away and i can drive normally for about an hour again and then it comes back on with no trouble code again. can someone help me out here. i dont understand why if i dont have a code it keeps happening and i really want to fix this little problem. also i have a 95 integra ls manual trans.

 

a little help before bed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by surfingsk8r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a little help before bed</TD></TR></TABLE>

free bump..

do you have any mods? and whats the history of the car? im not sure if this will help the others on the board but it might..

 

Is the backup fuse blown, so every time you turn off the car the ECU resets?

 

i dont think so because my clock and cd player stay the same plus if i turn off the car for like a minute lets say it still has teh check engine light on

 

and asa to the mods i dont really have anything except an air filter and a act hdss clutch all my money went into my turbo project and its not installed yet

 

Next time the CEL comes on, leave the car running and jump the connector. It'll work. I've done it before after my B16 swap. You can get the codes while the engines running.

Let us know what the codes are then.

-- Kevin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by surfingsk8r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok heres my problem after i drive my car for about a half hour to an hour my check engine light goes on and the car goes into limp mode where my rev limit is 3000 and it idles at 1500. when i shut the car off and jump the blue connector and then try to get a trouble code my check engine light stays solid and does not blink to give me a code. the other weird thing is that if i shut the car off and let it sit untill it completely cools down the check engine light goes away and i can drive normally for about an hour again and then it comes back on with no trouble code again. can someone help me out here. i dont understand why if i dont have a code it keeps happening and i really want to fix this little problem. also i have a 95 integra ls manual trans.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a similiar problem, I just wasn't jumping it correctly.

 

Atheist could def be right too. Check that as well.

-- Kevin

 

take the car to autozone or somewhere they have an actual code reader and see what happens there is a rare chance that you have a faulty pcm but you have to explorethe other options first

 

i have tryed to jump it while it was running but still no code. also i might be jumping it incorrectly but i doubt it becuase when there is no light an i jump it it lights up as it should. still i wish i had a scs connector thats the proper female jump fitting for that clip

 

A constant CEL light that never turns off and is always on and never gives a code, is "Code 0"(zero) - Faulty ECU. Thats why you are in limp mode.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by surfingsk8r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have tryed to jump it while it was running but still no code. also i might be jumping it incorrectly but i doubt it becuase when there is no light an i jump it it lights up as it should. still i wish i had a scs connector thats the proper female jump fitting for that clip</TD></TR></TABLE>You're doing it right, otherwise the CEL wouldn't come on with the jumper. The only thing about an SCS connector is you don't have to fumble around getting it in straight. Since the CEL comes on, you're doing that part OK.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A constant CEL light that never turns off and is always on and never gives a code, is "Code 0"(zero) - Faulty ECU. Thats why you are in limp mode.</TD></TR></TABLE>NO. Code zero is when it goes out & stays out (but check for burned-out bulb). When I jumper it to set my spark timing (no errors), the lamp stays on solid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrid_vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A constant CEL light that never turns off and is always on and never gives a code, is "Code 0"(zero) - Faulty ECU. Thats why you are in limp mode.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly.

assuming he is jumping it correctly (which i doubt), you need a new ECU-big $$

you better pray you're not jumping it correctly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
NO. Code zero is when it goes out & stays out (but check for burned-out bulb). When I jumper it to set my spark timing (no errors), the lamp stays on solid.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

but then the CEL wouldn't come on while he's driving...if it was burnt out i mean

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kablamo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but then the CEL wouldn't come on while he's driving...if it was burnt out i mean</TD></TR></TABLE>True. I only mentioned the bulb 'cause someone's bound to have a burned-out bulb somewhere, & they'll panic...

But a CEL that comes on when jumpering the connector, & stays on solid, IS NOT a code zero. Look it up in your Helm book.

 

have you tried resetting the computer yet

 

ok heres the update i did a little test today where i unpluged the connector for my o2 sensor so i would purposly throw a code. after the CEL came on i jumped the connector and got code 41 o2 sensor heater malfunction so i know that i am A. jumping it correctly, and B. the connector for reading the codes is fine. now to those of you who said that the sold light was a code zero and that means that it is my ECU while i would not like to admit it i think you are right because i have been setting up uberdata for my car and it is possible that i burned out a circut desoldering stuff. uberdata is not activated now because the jumper wire is not installed yet but i was told that that was ok to have the jumper out for returning the ECU to a stock state. and to the final question i have tried several times to reset the ECU but all of which didnt do anything but mess up my clock the problem keeps occuring.

 

ok well i went out and bought my self a new ECU that is already chipped for uberdata so we shall se if this really is the problem and i realy hope it is so its fixed.

 

I just had the same problem. I installed a chip and it ran fine for a couple of hours and then starting throwing codes and wouldnt let me rev past 4000 and wouldnt give me a code, it stayed solid.

So i cut the jumper and it ran fine. I checked some of my solders and touched them up. Tried it agian and it is still doing the same thing.

I installed a kenji ls/vtec chip in my p28, and i dont currently have vtec wired up yet, could be the problem.

Did you get yours fixed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by surfingsk8r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and asa to the mods i dont really have anything except an air filter and a act hdss clutch all my money went into my turbo project and its not installed yet</TD></TR></TABLE>so a couple days ago you didn't have any mods.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by surfingsk8r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... because i have been setting up uberdata for my car and it is possible that i burned out a circut desoldering stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>Oh. That would have been good to know about at the beginning...

I hope you got it. But I still say the solid CEL isn't code zero. Partly-installed stuff in the ECU can do strange things. You may find that your original ECU isn't really hosed if you put it all back to its original configuration.

 

jimblake the reason i didnt consider it a mod was because i was under the impression that it was an inactive circuit so therefore did not matter but i understand where you are coming from and i do really appreciate everyones help