Whats goin on guys? I just bought a pair of BLOX LCA for my 1995 GSR. Before I install it I just wanted to know if I was going to run into any problems or is it just a straight forward install? I heard that it might not match up with the rear sway bar ends and that I will have to buy after market ones. Is that true? Any help will be much appreciated.

 

why do people buy these?

 

because they're lighter and looks better?

 

better handles and if ur behind a car that have it its stand out?

 

because your LCA bolts get stuck inside so you have to melt, chop, cut, do whatever you can to get them out (aka destroy the stock LCAs). Use a **** ton of PB Blaster or dremel off the welded nut and replace the bolts.

 

i never heard any issue with the blox LCA, it's prolly the blox sway bar. the blox sway bar requires either blox endlinks or matching after market ones. never go with the blox sway bar, headache.

the LCA is a pretty easy install. just 4 bolts and your done. but you might run into 2 bolts that might give you trouble. the strut bolt and the bolt that connects to the spindle.

 

the problem u most likely will run to is cutting few bolts to get lcas out, so a pair of new lcas would be a good idea because u wont be able to reuse the old ones unless you change the bushings in them. why not go with aftermarket when u have a chance

the reason rear sway bar does not fit into blox lcas is because they lower on side to work on it then the other. when u lift one side with the other wheel on the ground it puts good amount of stress on the sway bar causing to flex down so when u install a new one holes do not match. lift an entire back to avoid this problem, gl

 

Blox is a cheap alternative to buying Skunk2 lcas, but I will tell you that after a short amount of time the lower shock bushing will wear out making your suspension sag a bit in the back, and also make some noise. Additionally, attaching the rear sway bar can be tough. If I was going to replace my lower control arms, I would either go with stock, Skunk2, Function7, or another higher quality LCA. Some might say that these brands are just "more expensive" but they are just better both bushing-wise and when attaching the rear sway bar. I promise you from experience on my own cars, and from various friends' cars this is true. Good luck!

 

HAH!! no. Why would they make the car handle better?

People buy them as a cheap alternative to OEM. I bought mine for my EM1 because my shock bolts and LCA to chassis bolts were frozen. I had to mutilate the bushings and cut through them to get them out. I would have bought OEM for about $50 more. But I didn't have time for shipping. A local shop had blox LCAs for $75. I went with those.

The bushings are garbage.

If you don't clock them, they will be torn in about a month or less. I clocked mine so they better last a decent amount of time.

Clock your bushings.

My swaybar matched up just fine. It's an ITR bar, but I obviously had EM1 links. Just leave the links loose on each end so you have slop, get them to match up to each mounting hole, and then tighten. Can't be that hard...

 

I have the newer blox LCA's with the two piece blue poly bushings. They seem to be really nice, and fit well with my ITR 22mm rear sway bar. The only problem that you will have, as mentioned before, is the bolts being seized into the bushings, which is a bid pita.

 

What do you mean by "clock your bushings?'.

 

YOU DONT NEED ANYTHING JUST SPRAY ALL THE BOLTS DOWN WITH WD-40 SO THEY DONT SNAP ON YOU...YOU'LL NEED A NUT TO HOLD UR SWAY BAR END LINK BOLTS THRU THE CONTROL ARM AND THATS IT..AND SOME ZIP TIES FOR YOUR ABS WIRES AND HAVE A NICE DAY HERES A PIC OF MINES with my omni sub frame and sway bar TOOK ME 30MINUTES TO INSTALL ON MY DRIVERWAY

 

Spraying the bolts with WD40 will do nothing to help what people are talking about on this post, which is the lower shock bolt becoming one with the lower control arm bushing. If the set up is stock and has never been taken out, most likely this is the case. Once this happens you have to cut the lower shock bolt in two places in order to get the shock seperated from the control arm. It is neither fun nor quickly done. You must have gotten lucky to have your bolts come out so easily. Good luck to the OP.

 

Hey thanks for everyones help and opinions. I'll keep you updated on the problems I run into.

 

ya iv had mine for 8 months and already having bushing problems, but there deff good replace ments for the stock ones when the bolts get stuck thats why i got them. also it depends where you live and whats your weather like, that as alot to do with the bushings

 

No...not clocking the bushings has a lot to do with bushings wearing out.

Search for "clocking bushings". I've posted a lot of information on doing this. I don't feel like typing out the procedure again.

Basically, you have to tighten the bolts at ride height...or the bushings will tear from over stretching. This is true for any non floating bushing. Including stock. So if you didn't clock your stock bushings, hit yourself in the face.

If you can't find any threads, ask me and I'll post the procedure again.

 

Alright I got it. Thank you for clarifying that. Clocking makes a lot of sense when you think about it. Another question. For the stock sway bar do I need to buy new bolts to bolt it on the LCA? Or can I use the oem bolts?

 

I believe you need slightly longer ones with a nut on the other end. Blox control arms do not come threaded. Good luck!

 

Straight Forward Install, Out with the Old in with the New...