So first my car would start like a bad battery about a month ago. I jumped it. Started up fine. Checked the battery posts and they were tight. A couple weeks after that my car wouldn't start like the battery was dead again. Checked cabling on the battery. Checked it on the alternator, and the belt; all good. Then About 4 days ago my car started to stutter on the way to work. I got made it to the parking lot but not a spot so I pushed it. Had someone come give me a jump after work. Got a jump. Car started right up. I took off the negative cable post off the battery and the car died. Took the spare battery that was brought to me. Put it in and car started and idled fine. Drove it home and lights started to dim. Got home and car wouldn't start up. I assumed the alternator went bad so I went and got it rebuilt by a shop. They said it needed new bearings and regulator and something else(not exactly sure). I installed the alternator. Car started right up. Then about 3 min later died!! So I went and started it again. Wouldn't start. Started it again about 2 min later. Started right up and died. Had my bro help me and he started/primed it. The fuel filter gagde wouldn't move at all! So i tried my spare p2t-a11 ecu. Car ran for 3 seconds and died. I can hear a humming noise when it primes but not sure if its the fuel pump but the fuel filter guadge doesn't move at all.

Bad fuel pump? Clugged? Tried searching and googling but nothing specific like my problem! It just amazes me how my alternator went bad along with possible fuel pump.

Thanks!

 

by fuel filler gauge I trust you mean you have an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge ?. 3 things here 1 possibly bad rebuild of the alt 2 **** battery for $80 may as well replace it 3 old fuel filter(most likely) for $20 replace it. hack even aftermarket pumps(255 walbro) are sub $100

 

Alternator was test bad so it was rebuilt by the best rebuild shop in town. The gauge is on the Fuel filter. Usually when I prime the key it goes around 35psi. All its staying at is 0. The battery cranks the engine with no problem.

1. Alternator most likely good. Shop who rebuilt it came highly recommended by past customers on a Local facebook page.
2. Battery holds a charge since it kept cranking engine after i replaced the alternator.
3. Not sure about fuel filter or pump. Usually the line from the filter to the rail is stiff but when i squeezed it, it was kinda limp.

I know for a fact the old one was comepletly dead because when I used the backup battery i had. It was 50% bigger and kept my car driving for about 2 1/2miles to my house.


Is this not enough info to help my case or you still think those 3 are bad?

 

bad pump or filter if your gauge reads 0 botrh are easy to replace. does the pump prime

 

I hear a humming sound. I think it primes. What else could make a humming noise when key is on position? Just the pump?

I HOPE ITS THE FILTER. I seen how to do the pump. Filter seems easier lol.

 

nothing really I have an 255 walbro thing is loud as **** compare to stock. I have to change mine one day to scared to strip the bolts tho idk how many times I've changed pumps tho.

 

It's ur pump for sure had the same issues u had about a month ago expect mine was a dead battery not dead alternator. And upgraded from a walbro 190lhp to a 320lhp. U can never have to much fuel. Lmao

 

so long as you keep the stock regulator PSI specs and injectors^ or are familiar with an EMS and car adjust injector trim/fuel tables, despite what some say no harm in putting a 255 in a bolt on b18

 

Nothing Really? You mean just the pump will humm?

When you say you have to change your walbro one: Do you mean because it went bad? If i do have to get a new filter what brands are good and what brands should i stay clear of?

Strip bolts? Easy to strip the ones that are holding the fuel pump in?

When you say you dont know how many youve changed? Is that because previous cars have had bad ones? Or they keep going bad in yours?

 

Yes just the pump should be the only thing making noise at that point.

no build reasons required more fuel could have gone 190lph but meh they were the same price for me.

you NEED a line/flare wrench to remove them, careful they corrode fast so pb blaster them a few days before you remove.

OEM Honda filter all the way, they're cheap

No I work on these cars after school at my friends shop I'm an assistant to the head mechanic. so I do tons of stuff regularly.

 

Do you hear your relay click? It should click twice, if hauge isnt reading anything the. It should be the pump. Rock auto has a good price on the fuel pupm,DENSO Part # 9500111 Pump & Strainer Set $79.99. Wayy cheaper the local, check ebay too..

 

for a note here, NEVER pull a battery cable while the car is running, the alternator can send a voltage spike of over 60 volts through everything in the car, the pulling the cable to check, goes back to the old days of generators, it can do serious damage to your alternator and electrical components. Thats an old test that I wish would just die out, if the alternator had a bad diode, and you pulled the cable, you may very well have cooked the pump and who knows what else. It sounds like it started as an electrical issue then because another issue after you did that

 

Ok so possible fried of the pump. from what your saying.

Also need flare wrench to get it off parts of the pump. ok

As for the humming noise I think its the pump. I'm going to change out the filter when ever it gets nice out again. Past few days were nice but some reason this sh***y sd weather got cold again and windy. Since my filter has a pressure gauge on it. Can i take that one off the old one and put it on the new one?

After I pulled the neg wire it died. Then I tried the bigger battery then it drove 2 1/2 miles. I was running on a little low on gas that day now that I think about it. Hopefully its the filter!

Ordering filter today and hopefully nice enough to install soon.

 

if the alternator had a bad diode, the battery was shorting the other half of the AC waveform to ground, the battery also absorbs spikes etc from the alternator, without it all of that goes to your electronics, radio,ecu, and everything thing else in the circuit

 

Alright. So this is all new to me. From all what your saying.

So even though I drove it 2 1/2 miles with the bigger different battery my fuel pump could of been shorted? Or do you think its my filter? The big battery ended up losing power eventually when I got closer to home because it was around 9:30pm and my dash lights and headlights started to dim. Then when i replaced the alternator it ran good for 3mins then died. Then started up a little later for another minute and then wouldn't get any pressure on the fuel filter gauge.

 

I'm saying you could have damaged it, you need to use a meter to see if voltage is going to the pump when it's suppose to prime, if it is, it's most likely the pump, I have personally seen people cook everything in late model Hondas by messing with the battery leads while the car was running. car shuts off and never starts again. I hope you didnt do that kind of damage, but it's a real possibility

 

Alright. If you would please do so. Tell me how to test it?

So here's my list:
Replace fuel filter(Just for the heck of it since Its never been done)
Test relay
Test pump power(if ya tell me how to do so)

thanks!

 

um disconnect the connector to the pump on the tank, have someone turn the key while you check for voltage at the terminals, should briefly get voltage when the key is first turned on

 

So the the wires going to the pump? Or see if there's a voltage going through the pump itself?

 

No the wires. At the connector that plugs into the pump, if you have voltage and the pump wont run its the pump

 

So finally got time to look at my car today. It was getting around 3.xx volts to the pump. Everytime i prime the key for the pump i can always hear it prime up. Bad pump Or something else? If i prime up 3 times then start the car it runs for 5 secs then dies or runs for 2 sec and dies or tries to run and dies. Bad fuel filter(firewall)? I'm puzzled. I've tried both my p2t ecus and both with same results.

 

UPDATE:

So I feel sooooo dumb....

My gauge must be off because it said 1/8 tank. Which obviously was empty because I put a gallon of fuel in it and it started right up and my fuel filter gauge stayed at its normal pressure. I already bought the filter so going to replace that for ***** and giggles lol.

Some other questions. I measured the volts with it on and i got around 14.43v

With it off i got 12.41v

Are these measurements normal?

 

yep those are fine, I was assuming you had gas

 

haha. yea I assumed my gauge was accurate. I usually fill up every 1 1/2 weeks. Well thanks for your time and knowledge! I now have my dd back and can quit borrowing my moms car! lol