b20b in a DA
was gonna do a turbo set up on my DA9 but my a1 has over 240k on her....i was thinking of rebuilding her..but the time and price it would cost is just a little more than i want to put in her...she runs perfect for a DD..but isn't in the right shape to be a boosted DD...so i'm thinking of getting my buddy's B20B off his hands...it has under 50k...what do you guys think?...and how direct of a swap is this?...should i just rebuild my a1 or go with the B20?...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jhammond_82 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i wouldn't want to go too much boost in the b20, the cyl walls are alot thinner than your b18a1, and won't hold up to alot of abuse. </TD></TR></TABLE>
see that's the thing...ls's have weak heads...and i've heard different things about the b20..some say it's a solid engine that can take major beatings..others say they're weak and can't take a couple pounds of boost...what's the truth here?...
see that's the thing...ls's have weak heads...and i've heard different things about the b20..some say it's a solid engine that can take major beatings..others say they're weak and can't take a couple pounds of boost...what's the truth here?...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .PLUMMM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20 DA would be fine. My friend had one and it ripped. Stock with an intake, stage 4 clutch, Thermal Research Exhaust, and a Ls tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why??????
B20's that are not sleeved are not hte best things for boost due to the thin cylinder walls. The main weak part with B20's when going all motor especially B20/VTEC where you plan to rev it higher are the rod bolts. A B20 all motor is a solid motor, and if you do go with the VTEC putting new rod bearings and ARP rod bolts will let the block rev to 8k rpms. To be safer if you are really going to build it then you would want to get the assembly balanced. LS heads are not weak unless you're talking about cam profiles compared to VTEC heads. I have had a B20 DA and I loved it, it had great response and the low rpm pick-up was incredible compared to waiting for my GSR to hit 5800 rpms before it starts going anywhere. For boost purposes though, I would not use a B20 unless you sleeve it, I'd stick to an LS for boost, they are cheap and easy to find a newer replacement for yours that you can boost on without worrying about the mileage on your motor now.
Why??????
B20's that are not sleeved are not hte best things for boost due to the thin cylinder walls. The main weak part with B20's when going all motor especially B20/VTEC where you plan to rev it higher are the rod bolts. A B20 all motor is a solid motor, and if you do go with the VTEC putting new rod bearings and ARP rod bolts will let the block rev to 8k rpms. To be safer if you are really going to build it then you would want to get the assembly balanced. LS heads are not weak unless you're talking about cam profiles compared to VTEC heads. I have had a B20 DA and I loved it, it had great response and the low rpm pick-up was incredible compared to waiting for my GSR to hit 5800 rpms before it starts going anywhere. For boost purposes though, I would not use a B20 unless you sleeve it, I'd stick to an LS for boost, they are cheap and easy to find a newer replacement for yours that you can boost on without worrying about the mileage on your motor now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PACT man »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For boost purposes though, I would not use a B20 unless you sleeve it, I'd stick to an LS for boost, they are cheap and easy to find a newer replacement for yours that you can boost on without worrying about the mileage on your motor now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectstacy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should i just rebuild my a1 or go with the B20?...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think that he did and i would agree
For boost purposes though, I would not use a B20 unless you sleeve it, I'd stick to an LS for boost, they are cheap and easy to find a newer replacement for yours that you can boost on without worrying about the mileage on your motor now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by projectstacy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should i just rebuild my a1 or go with the B20?...</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think that he did and i would agree
my bad.....that's kinda what i wanted to hear..i don't want to have to swap...but i had heard a b20 could take a beating and i can get one for a good price so i figured "why not?"..but if the ls is the best choice..then rebuild it is..any more opinions?....would love to get tons of feedback before making a final decisions...
searched but pulled out a lot of fs threads....and few info threads...but i think i'm gonna keep the ls...it's what i wanted to do originally..and it seems the most practical thing to do...i'm gonna run a comp test soon to see where my engine stands....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2Hedi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not for what motor to keep but for what parts to change out</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm keeping the b18a1. the comp test is just to see if it's safe to boost stock, or if i should rebuild. i'm only gonna push about 7psi....i'm more than likely gonna do a valvetrain job either way.
i'm keeping the b18a1. the comp test is just to see if it's safe to boost stock, or if i should rebuild. i'm only gonna push about 7psi....i'm more than likely gonna do a valvetrain job either way.
3 angle valve job and re-ring it, and make sure the ringland on the pistons are in decent shape, Usually with that many miles they will come apart but other than that you should be able to boost about 8 psi on a small turbo with out any problems.
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Mar 11, 2004 04:10 AM



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