I have a bone stock USDM GSR.

I've checked threads for a solution and nothing comes close to what i am looking for as an explanation. So here it goes.

Every morning i turn on my car and it jumps exactly to a 2k rpm idle and starts going down over an elapsed time of 1 minute to roughly 1500-1200 rpm's. After i drive for <2 miles it idles at 1000 rpm's. Also my temp. gauge is at its lowest point. After driving for awhile lets say a little over 10 miles the car idles at around ~500 rpm's, then the the temp. gauge signals at operating temp. Now one thing that i notice when i try some 'pulls' on the car it pulls a lot better when the car idles at 1k rpm rather than when its at operating temp. it feels like the car doesn't even want to move. So today i went out for a drive and peeled out on the highway..after i hit it on 3rd gear and topped out i put it in neutral and suddenly the car turned off on me. It was the second time it did that. The other time i was just daily driving and at 30mph i put it in neutral and it also turned off.

Long story short -

why does my car react and pull a lot better when its at a cold temp. rather when it gets to its operating temp. the vtec pull is a lot weaker and the car feels like its going to stall at every stoplight with a weak idle.

Feedback would greatly be appreciated.

 

Car pulls harder when it's cold because it's still in open loop. Feeding more fuel.

Have you tried cleaning your IACV? What year is your gsr? Any CEL?

 

Mine does this too sometimes. As far as the weak idle is concerned. '99 LS Coupe

 

I see. I was leaning towards the IACV since that was the closest thing that appeared to make sense due to other people's story's.

No i have not tried the IACV, the GSR block is a '95. And yes i have a CEL, i have not gotten it checked out for codes but most people have told me that it may just be the o2's, so i really never bothered.

 

check the codes. if the o2 sensor is failing, once in closed loop it'll run like garbage. also, check the ECT sensor resistance. first cold, then hot. see if it falls within spec.
but check the codes first. always

 

sure will, get codes checked out asap.

 

O2 sensor. Clear the code and see if it comes on once the car has reached normal temp.

 

^^that's absolutely not definitive. just because a problem occurs once the vehicle warms to operating temp does not indicate an issue with the o2. any electrical problem may show itself once heat/resistance is applied. there are a multitude of possibilities.
check the codes and go from there

 

May just be the o2 sensor? Really?

Wow either they don't know **** or you're just too lazy to fix things in the first place.

 

No you misread what I was stating. The O2 sensor will trigger a cell once the car has reached operating temperature. I am still leaning towards it...

 

Hey guys sorry to revive an old thread but my 88 ef sedan with b18a1 dies when it's cold and I Try to dive when I need to get places asap but it runs fine after its warm but on cold starts I need to hold the gas till its warm enough to keep itself on plz help
I can do a few things on the car but I don't tear into what I don't know

 

Need a second post to make my own thread
So yeahh...

 

go to EF section. this is for integra..