axles are the devil
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
bolded area is the important part, standard text is just lead up to problem.
oops- its a 93 Teg RS
i was driving home last night doing about 65 mph and my car started pulling hard to the left. i had just braked going down a hill, so my first thought was my driver side front caliper had seized. i pull off at the next exit, get out and walk around my car. theres steam coming outta my driver side front wheel well(it was raining here last night.) so i assumed i was correct in thinking it was my caliper. i jacked the car up pulled the tire off and was able to spin the rotor by the studs.... this is where i get confused. i look at my rim and grease is slung everywhere.... so now i realise my outter CV joint is leaking/torn but its 5 AM and using my cell phone as a flash light is working out too well for trying to look at a black boot to determine the extent of the damage. i figure its trashed, but say f*ck it because i was 5 miles from home. put the wheel back on yada yada. pull back out on the highway get up to about 40mph. then just start coasting/free revving. "WTF?!?!?!?!" was the only thought i had at that point... coast into next exit. jack car back up etc. outter CV joint is seperated. the midshaft of the driver side axle pulled out of the outter CV joint. i can hold onto the midshaft(not the halfshaft on the rear of the engine) and rotate the wheel hub assembly. heres why i'm pissed. axles are only approx. 2000 miles old. i have ES motor mount inserts installed(front and rear, the rear being biggest PITA known to man) which takes away my concern of severe angles on the axles and I'm only lowered about 2" on eibach sportlines, and ive got F&R camber kits installed and properly aligned... so i figure im ok as far as axle alignment. I've never had a problem with this car's axles before. they were recently replaced because they were clicking but had about 65K on them so it seemed reasonable. anyone have suggestions?
think it was just a "bad" reman'd axle? possibly a longer axle available?
i've read up a little on the DC driver side axle swap using the 94+ halfshaft with male end and the 94+ driver side axle with female end, supposedly slightly longer than the DA axles. but would this cause binding? anyone have thoughts on that conversion?
do you think the steam was caused by the boot/joint being really hot and the rain just hitting it? or should i be concerned that something else was getting unnecessary friction/ heat build up?
and final question, the front engine mount has a "slot" to it. i noticed this installing my ES inserts. theres about 3/4" of range to choose from when tightening down the bolts. does anyone know the proper point to tighten the mount at? such as all the way up, or all the way down? or does this small amount of play not matter?
sorry for the long *ss post. im just ticked off, missing work with a lot on my mind, and my cars sitting in a damn parking lot . any help or thoughts would be awesome. thanks guys.
Modified by benjaminenjamin at 12:56 PM 5/16/2006
Modified by benjaminenjamin at 1:05 PM 5/16/2006
oops- its a 93 Teg RS
i was driving home last night doing about 65 mph and my car started pulling hard to the left. i had just braked going down a hill, so my first thought was my driver side front caliper had seized. i pull off at the next exit, get out and walk around my car. theres steam coming outta my driver side front wheel well(it was raining here last night.) so i assumed i was correct in thinking it was my caliper. i jacked the car up pulled the tire off and was able to spin the rotor by the studs.... this is where i get confused. i look at my rim and grease is slung everywhere.... so now i realise my outter CV joint is leaking/torn but its 5 AM and using my cell phone as a flash light is working out too well for trying to look at a black boot to determine the extent of the damage. i figure its trashed, but say f*ck it because i was 5 miles from home. put the wheel back on yada yada. pull back out on the highway get up to about 40mph. then just start coasting/free revving. "WTF?!?!?!?!" was the only thought i had at that point... coast into next exit. jack car back up etc. outter CV joint is seperated. the midshaft of the driver side axle pulled out of the outter CV joint. i can hold onto the midshaft(not the halfshaft on the rear of the engine) and rotate the wheel hub assembly. heres why i'm pissed. axles are only approx. 2000 miles old. i have ES motor mount inserts installed(front and rear, the rear being biggest PITA known to man) which takes away my concern of severe angles on the axles and I'm only lowered about 2" on eibach sportlines, and ive got F&R camber kits installed and properly aligned... so i figure im ok as far as axle alignment. I've never had a problem with this car's axles before. they were recently replaced because they were clicking but had about 65K on them so it seemed reasonable. anyone have suggestions?
think it was just a "bad" reman'd axle? possibly a longer axle available?
i've read up a little on the DC driver side axle swap using the 94+ halfshaft with male end and the 94+ driver side axle with female end, supposedly slightly longer than the DA axles. but would this cause binding? anyone have thoughts on that conversion?
do you think the steam was caused by the boot/joint being really hot and the rain just hitting it? or should i be concerned that something else was getting unnecessary friction/ heat build up?
and final question, the front engine mount has a "slot" to it. i noticed this installing my ES inserts. theres about 3/4" of range to choose from when tightening down the bolts. does anyone know the proper point to tighten the mount at? such as all the way up, or all the way down? or does this small amount of play not matter?
sorry for the long *ss post. im just ticked off, missing work with a lot on my mind, and my cars sitting in a damn parking lot . any help or thoughts would be awesome. thanks guys.
Modified by benjaminenjamin at 12:56 PM 5/16/2006
Modified by benjaminenjamin at 1:05 PM 5/16/2006
Thread Starter
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
well it wasnt a bad reman'd. i borrowed my friends spare DA axle went about a mile and same thing. axle seperated, then sheered off the splines at the outter CV joint. im guessing its something with my suspension or alignment issues? any suggestions.
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
yeah the shaft pulled out of the CV housing. then sheered all the teeth off of both the CV joint and the shaft. its as if my axle is too short. but im thinking its something with my driver side alignment though ive never had this problem before, or that my engine isnt sitting right in my engine bay. all the mount bolts are tight and i just installed the ES insert kit last weekend. though i am concerned with the position of my front mount because it offers some room of adjustment and i dont know where correct placement would be?
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
sadly im out of axles. i turned in my cores when i did the new ones about 2000 miles ago. im pretty sure its something with my engine alignment or my upper control arm has moved some since theyre adjustable from the camber kit. i got my car home today, but i dont want to put in new axles again and have them do the same thing while driving it to a shop to get aligned. any thoughts on proper engine positioning with OEM mounts?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by benjaminenjamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sadly im out of axles. i turned in my cores when i did the new ones about 2000 miles ago. im pretty sure its something with my engine alignment or my upper control arm has moved some since theyre adjustable from the camber kit. i got my car home today, but i dont want to put in new axles again and have them do the same thing while driving it to a shop to get aligned. any thoughts on proper engine positioning with OEM mounts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't see how the suspension would move enough to allow an axle to pop out like that. Even harder to understand how the motor can bolt up any other way to allow this to happen as well. I still think you have the wrong axle. Take it down to the auto parts place for comparison.
I don't see how the suspension would move enough to allow an axle to pop out like that. Even harder to understand how the motor can bolt up any other way to allow this to happen as well. I still think you have the wrong axle. Take it down to the auto parts place for comparison.
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
well my car is lowered about 2 inches... think that could possibly have something to do with it, though its never had a prob before? i dont get why it took 2000 miles for it to happen? then put in another driver side DA axle today that my friend had, thinking that the other axle was just coincidentally junk and the same thing happend to it. i dont see how we both managed to get a wrong axle. i wont be able to get a new axle til thurs, ill be working all day tomorrow.
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BOLO-FTW!! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your title reminds me of the movie waterboy</TD></TR></TABLE> i dont get it?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arrojj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ******* boot strikes again same **** happened to me
</TD></TR></TABLE>
what was your remedy?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arrojj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the ******* boot strikes again same **** happened to me
</TD></TR></TABLE>what was your remedy?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by benjaminenjamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i dont get it?
what was your remedy?</TD></TR></TABLE>
had to replace the axle cuz they were so fucked, I think that would be your best bet or get them rebuilt. but i just got newones cuz they came with life time warranty< i think thats how you spell that, sorry im a shity speller
what was your remedy?</TD></TR></TABLE>
had to replace the axle cuz they were so fucked, I think that would be your best bet or get them rebuilt. but i just got newones cuz they came with life time warranty< i think thats how you spell that, sorry im a shity speller
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by benjaminenjamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i dont get it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
oh i get it the part where his mom says football is the devil and everything is the devil HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
oh i get it the part where his mom says football is the devil and everything is the devil HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
haha oh yeah, now i remember. its been a while since ive seen bobby buchay take the field.
i know i need to replace the axle. i thought you were saying that you were having similar problems, as in your axle was seperating... not that your axle just wore out.
anyone else have axles seperating?
i know i need to replace the axle. i thought you were saying that you were having similar problems, as in your axle was seperating... not that your axle just wore out.
anyone else have axles seperating?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by arrojj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
had to replace the axle cuz they were so fucked, I think that would be your best bet or get them rebuilt. but i just got newones cuz they came with life time warranty< i think thats how you spell that, sorry im a shity speller
</TD></TR></TABLE>
it's not a boot issue from what he has said. If the axle is seperating at the joint its too short, plain and simple.
Having the car lowered only makes the axles slightly tighter. Either way it won't cause this.
had to replace the axle cuz they were so fucked, I think that would be your best bet or get them rebuilt. but i just got newones cuz they came with life time warranty< i think thats how you spell that, sorry im a shity speller
</TD></TR></TABLE>it's not a boot issue from what he has said. If the axle is seperating at the joint its too short, plain and simple.
Having the car lowered only makes the axles slightly tighter. Either way it won't cause this.
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
would engine alignment be a factor?
i need to get a new axle in then just sit around and adjust suspension parts and motor mounts seeing if i can find positioning that seems to work.
i need to get a new axle in then just sit around and adjust suspension parts and motor mounts seeing if i can find positioning that seems to work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by benjaminenjamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would engine alignment be a factor?
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah sure but how the hell could you bolt the motor up wrong? Take a picture of all three mounts....
stock mounts with ES inserts right?
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah sure but how the hell could you bolt the motor up wrong? Take a picture of all three mounts....
stock mounts with ES inserts right?
Correction:
* foose ball's the devil!!
Well, i hope thins work out for you man, i had a friend who spun a bearing not too long ago and it like saudered itself all over the place somehow.
* foose ball's the devil!!
Well, i hope thins work out for you man, i had a friend who spun a bearing not too long ago and it like saudered itself all over the place somehow.
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
thanks man. i think ive got it figured out. it seems my driver side torsion bar has positioned my LCA too far back, causing my axle to be out of alignment. i tightened the nut a couple turns and pulled the arm forward about a half inch. lined up the half shaft, strut fork, and spindle in a much more centered position. im hoping this is the fix. idk what caused it to be so far back suddenly. hopefully ill get the new axle tomorrow and have it aligned by the weekend.... and hopefully i can drive more than 2 miles and make it to the shop.
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From: i live on an island, MD, USA
holy **** talk about getting *** raped on parts. payed 82.94 for a damn lower balljoint and 155.17 for a wheel bearing..... without labor fees.
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