what is a reliable engine for a 94 integra. i want one that is affordable but has alot of power

 

Fast cheap reliable...

Pick 2 of those 3 words, you can only have two...

I'd say a good all around motor for you dollar if your not looking to do your own tuning and such would be your basic GSR swap, its not incredibly powerful, but its a good base to start with.

 

H22 -> B18c -> b16a ->DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD

 

gsr lsv or you can always turn to b18c5. hahah

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slpr_civic93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gsr lsv or you can always turn to b18c5. hahah </TD></TR></TABLE>

From the sounds of him, i dont think ls/v is for him, he's not looking to spend a lot of money but wants reliability.. that doesnt make a good combo for lsv setup, and hype-r is over priced, you can get a gsr and with the money you save, build the gsr a bit and destory the hyper

 

Fast and Cheap..... run nitrous on your stock motor till it blows! have a nice day.

 

yea i am kinda not wanting to blow my current engine lol. but thnx for the tip

 

GSR

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iH8RICERZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fast and Cheap..... run nitrous on your stock motor till it blows! have a nice day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tazragoon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i am kinda not wanting to blow my current engine lol. but thnx for the tip</TD></TR></TABLE>

nitrous destroys engines just as much as would a turbo charger, supercharger or a high compression all motor setup...dont be ignorant...ive run nitrous on my engine for two years with frequent use and havent blown anything...

 

can never go wrong with a gsr motor with a few little bolt ons

 

B20vtec

 

B20Vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lVlemphizStylez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nitrous destroys engines just as much as would a turbo charger, supercharger or a high compression all motor setup...dont be ignorant...ive run nitrous on my engine for two years with frequent use and havent blown anything...</TD></TR></TABLE>

this guy speaks the truth if you get nitrous tuned right and dont lean your **** out then it will do just as much damage as a well tuned turbo... which is really not too bad cosidering most people run the **** out of there cars anyway...

 

what's ur definition of cheap? and if u want fast reliable and cheap it's impossible for all three to be in one category...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by numberone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20Vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tizight &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

Obviously frankenstein motors arent for him, he's not looking to do a whole lot, he wants fast and somewhat reliable.

 

who says ls-v/b20-v isnt reliable?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sic_DC_FOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who says ls-v/b20-v isnt reliable?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me, an "affordable" ls-v is not reliable it cost some money to build them right...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VHOA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Me, an "affordable" ls-v is not reliable it cost some money to build them right...</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

it isnt really all that much

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sic_DC_FOE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it isnt really all that much


</TD></TR></TABLE>

About how much are you thinking? Whats your breakdown of a 'reliable' frankenstein?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spectrum24x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

About how much are you thinking? Whats your breakdown of a 'reliable' frankenstein?</TD></TR></TABLE>

to find a legit gsr complete swap, it will run you about...2300-2600

since he already has a LS bottom block...it isnt gunna cost him all that much...

a reliable ls-v isnt gunna be as much as a complete gsr motor.

and it building it right means using NEW parts...
you dont have to buy a whole bunch of aftermaket **** to make it run right...

i have a b20v in my integra and it hasnt gone out on me....it runs good and strong without ANY leaks...daily driven. any motor can be reliable if youmaintain it right

 

Well, to me, building it right means i can rev the **** out of it every day, and not have to worry about it...

GS-R block girdle is ideal for any ls/vtec setup. i would definetely use ARP Headstuds, forged rods for sure, if not pistons as well.. along with some great tuning to make sure everything is running right..

on top of all that you need to buy the Vtec head, thats 800 bucks, and the Golden eagle ls/v kit swap the water and oil pump.

Tell me you can do all that for less then 3 grand..

 

Also.. depending on how many miles his motor has, 100k+ i would recommend doing a rebuild before putting the kind of stress an ls/v will be putting on his motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spectrum24x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, to me, building it right means i can rev the **** out of it every day, and not have to worry about it...

GS-R block girdle is ideal for any ls/vtec setup. i would definetely use ARP Headstuds, forged rods for sure, if not pistons as well.. along with some great tuning to make sure everything is running right..

on top of all that you need to buy the Vtec head, thats 800 bucks, and the Golden eagle ls/v kit swap the water and oil pump.

Tell me you can do all that for less then 3 grand.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

whoa whoa someone stop the bullshit...listen...you dont need forged rods to make an ls vtec reliable...and what does forged pistons have ANYTHING to do with reving?? Does your gsr have forged internals??? why would an ls vtec need them?? Vtec head for 800?? did the Pope endow this head with his **** or something?? Where are you getting your figures??

a reliable ls bottom end reinforced with ARP rod bolts has been proven to withstand and be reliable to 8k...Yea you could change out the rods for added security...but like i said, its been done on the LS rods many times over, lsvtec must be out of the ordinary where you are...because here they are common and are still running strong, i guess if something is alien to you it might seem unreliable (fear what you dont understand i guess)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lVlemphizStylez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whoa whoa someone stop the bullshit...listen...you dont need forged rods to make an ls vtec reliable...and what does forged pistons have ANYTHING to do with reving?? Does your gsr have forged internals??? why would an ls vtec need them?? Vtec head for 800?? did the Pope endow this head with his **** or something?? Where are you getting your figures??

a reliable ls bottom end reinforced with ARP rod bolts has been proven to withstand and be reliable to 8k...Yea you could change out the rods for added security...but like i said, its been done on the LS rods many times over, lsvtec must be out of the ordinary where you are...because here they are common and are still running strong, i guess if something is alien to you it might seem unreliable (fear what you dont understand i guess)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand LS/Vtec i have a stong *** ls/v, I'm just saying for me reliable means i can rev the **** out of it, you said yourself forged rods are added secruity, i didnt say the pistons were a must, but if you got the rods out, why not throw in pistons to make some real power... i know i paid around 800 for my GSR head, it was off a 2000 GSR