ABS problem
when i turn my car on, i get a buzzing kind of sound. after a while, it'll turn off, then right when its off, the ABS light turns on on the dash. my brakes still work fine, but i noticed when braking harder, i need to press the brakes down harder to stop as fast as before.
what kind of problem is this? any ideas?
what kind of problem is this? any ideas?
Its most likely an accumulator problem. The buzzing sound is the accumulator trying to pressurize itself. Pull the code and see what the error is. It'll most likely be either a 13 or 18 which are high pressure leak and system problems.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brasspremier »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if that is the problem, how would you go about fixing it? check the vaccums and whatnot?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Often, the fix for an accumulator leak is changing a $2 o-ring. But most shops will just recommend changing the whole system, which is a $700-$1000 job.
Often, the fix for an accumulator leak is changing a $2 o-ring. But most shops will just recommend changing the whole system, which is a $700-$1000 job.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brasspremier »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
. i could live with ABS i guess... i'll look into the o ring t hing</TD></TR></TABLE>
BTW , the code to which he is referring is on the ABS ECU, not the car/engine ECU. They are not the same or in the same placre.
Well at least on g2's anyway. Not sure about g3's
. i could live with ABS i guess... i'll look into the o ring t hing</TD></TR></TABLE>BTW , the code to which he is referring is on the ABS ECU, not the car/engine ECU. They are not the same or in the same placre.
Well at least on g2's anyway. Not sure about g3's
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by timmy8151 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Often, the fix for an accumulator leak is changing a $2 o-ring. But most shops will just recommend changing the whole system, which is a $700-$1000 job.</TD></TR></TABLE>
timmy8151: Is that $2 o-ring a DIY kind of thing or is it too involved to tackle at home?
Often, the fix for an accumulator leak is changing a $2 o-ring. But most shops will just recommend changing the whole system, which is a $700-$1000 job.</TD></TR></TABLE>
timmy8151: Is that $2 o-ring a DIY kind of thing or is it too involved to tackle at home?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Brasspremier »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i turn my car on, i get a buzzing kind of sound. after a while, it'll turn off, then right when its off, the ABS light turns on on the dash. my brakes still work fine, but i noticed when braking harder, i need to press the brakes down harder to stop as fast as before.
what kind of problem is this? any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here's the solution to your problem: http://www.danoland.com/nsxgar...s.htm
Granted that's for a NSX, and worked perfectly on my NSX, but use the same principle with the solenoids, the bleeding, and the purging of the fluid. Basically your ABS system just needs to be flushed out.
Otherwise, the "poorman's" fix that works most of the time (as for how long, all depends on the car), when you hear the ABS pump start to prime, you can stomp HARD on the brakes so the ABS works and flows fluid into the pump. I can just stomp on the brakes when the car is at a complete stop because I bypassed the TCS computer so the ALB computer doesn't need to see load, but when you do this it'll circulate the fluid into the ABS pump and the pump will turn off shortly after. Otherwise, they normally stay on for about 60-120 seconds.
what kind of problem is this? any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here's the solution to your problem: http://www.danoland.com/nsxgar...s.htm
Granted that's for a NSX, and worked perfectly on my NSX, but use the same principle with the solenoids, the bleeding, and the purging of the fluid. Basically your ABS system just needs to be flushed out.
Otherwise, the "poorman's" fix that works most of the time (as for how long, all depends on the car), when you hear the ABS pump start to prime, you can stomp HARD on the brakes so the ABS works and flows fluid into the pump. I can just stomp on the brakes when the car is at a complete stop because I bypassed the TCS computer so the ALB computer doesn't need to see load, but when you do this it'll circulate the fluid into the ABS pump and the pump will turn off shortly after. Otherwise, they normally stay on for about 60-120 seconds.
dont think i mentioned this, but sometimes there is no problem, no buzzing, and no abs light on, it really has the problem about half the time
next time i have problem, i'll try the stomp method, see if that does anything
next time i have problem, i'll try the stomp method, see if that does anything
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