'94 LS Timing Belt Tension.....
11-14-2007, 04:35 AM
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'94 LS Timing Belt Tension.....
I just replaced the t-belt, tensioner, spring, and water pump.
I have a feeling (maybe I worry too much) that the belt is a bit on the tight side. It is not making the infamous whining/whirling sound but the car feels sluggish and the belt was pretty damn tight when I put it on.
So...I have a couple questions on how to re-tension the belt now that it's on the car. Search yielded many different answers but nothing definite.
?#1 - I can remove dist. cap and check the rotor against the crank pulley to verify TDC...BUT...once at TDC how do I know when I've rotated the motor three teeth?...do I have to remove the valve cover and upper t-belt cover so I can actually see the cam gears move three teeth?
?#2 - When do I loosen the tensioner?...do I a) loosen the tensioner while at TDC then move three teeth and then tighten the tensioner, or b) move three teeth then loosen the tensioner then tighten the tensioner?
Hopefully that made sense...any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have a feeling (maybe I worry too much) that the belt is a bit on the tight side. It is not making the infamous whining/whirling sound but the car feels sluggish and the belt was pretty damn tight when I put it on.
So...I have a couple questions on how to re-tension the belt now that it's on the car. Search yielded many different answers but nothing definite.
?#1 - I can remove dist. cap and check the rotor against the crank pulley to verify TDC...BUT...once at TDC how do I know when I've rotated the motor three teeth?...do I have to remove the valve cover and upper t-belt cover so I can actually see the cam gears move three teeth?
?#2 - When do I loosen the tensioner?...do I a) loosen the tensioner while at TDC then move three teeth and then tighten the tensioner, or b) move three teeth then loosen the tensioner then tighten the tensioner?
Hopefully that made sense...any help would be greatly appreciated!
11-14-2007, 06:35 AM
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Re: (skata89)
take off teh valve cover and there is a hole on( nail size) each of the cams, try to find a screw driver to fit in them and then loosen the tension. this trip should keep you TDC, but you should never over tight your TB
11-14-2007, 06:36 AM
#5
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Re: (GSR-C5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR-C5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take off teh valve cover and there is a hole on( nail size) each of the cams, try to find a screw driver to fit in them and then loosen the tension. this trip should keep you TDC, but you should never over tight your TB</TD></TR></TABLE>
Worst advice evar!!!
You do not have to be at TDC to adjust tension. Just losen, turn three teeth, and tighten.
Worst advice evar!!!
You do not have to be at TDC to adjust tension. Just losen, turn three teeth, and tighten.
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11-15-2007, 04:01 AM
#8
Daisy... Daisy...
Re: (GSR-C5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR-C5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">won't it be easy this way? to keep your timing from jumping?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It won't jump time.
Here is a good link with pictures. Mind you, it is for a B18C.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php
It won't jump time.
Here is a good link with pictures. Mind you, it is for a B18C.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php
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