ok so i have 90 acura integra that cranks but does not start most of the time and when i do get it started when you press on the gas it hesitates and bogs then goes its throwing a code 6 and 15 on the ecu....

the history before this happened...
i had a code 8 on the ecu which was tdc but it still started and drove fine... then one day it just cranked but didnt start...
figured it was time to replace the distributor...
so replaced it and bam it started right up worked fine...
a week later my throw out bearing melted cause the release spring broke so i parked the car and replaced the the spring and the bearing...
go to start my car and it started then when you press the gas it started to hesitate and bog thought i just needed gas so i went to get gas...
ran good for a couple days...
then i come to start it one morning and it wont start...
the next day i tried to diagnose the problem so i go to start the car and it starts then dies a couple of times...
then it finally starts...
but now its not starting and im getting code 6 and 15....
im not getting a code 15 and more just a code 6....



when car warms up it runs perfectly...

things that i have replaced
distributor
distributor cap,rotor,igniter,
spark plugs, and spark plug cables
throttle body and tps
injectors

tests i have done
test for spark: good
test for fuel: there is fuel at the fuel pump and the injectors are clicking
compression test: 175 all across
timing: belt is set correctly and all on the marks (belt is less then 10k old and has no signs of wear)
ecu was replaced by workin ecu and still same problem
throttle body and tps was replaced...
tps reads .344v at closed position and 4.45 at wot

could cracked headers or bad header gasket cause this problem?

please help me out tell me what else i need to do

 

Is gas actually getting into the cylinders?

Try starting the car, then immediately remove a spark plug and see if it is wet with gas.

If you have good compression and spark and fuel is getting to the combustion chamber but engine will not start, the problem must be timing, check the timing, make sure timing belt has not "skipped" a tooth. 94

BTW, I just got my Tokico Illuminas for my 94 Integra, from Loardco, sadly they are still sitting on my bench at work.

 

ok so updated the tests that i have done....

and fcm i should crank it once and just remove the spark plug right away??? all the spark plugs???

any one no how to check for clogged injectors??? could it be the main relay??? help please thanks

 

Just try and start it, let it crank a few times, then pull any plug or all of them, if fuel is getting into the cylinders the plugs will be wet with gas, if they are not, check the fuel pressure at the rail, check and make sure there is power at the injectors, [lead that is the same color on all four injectors]. 94

 

up!

 

ok i'll throw my dmm at the injectors 2morro... can the injectors work only sometimes??

 

Power for the injectors is supplied by the injector relay in the PGM-FI Main Relay, [sometimes through resistors, depends on MM&Y of car] the injectors are controlled by the ECU/ECM, [ground pulse] and yes, both power and ground pulse can be intermittent to the injectors so they will be intermittent, [more so then they are supposed to be].

Have you checked to see if the plugs are wet with gas yet? 94

 

yea they wet with gas i believe like its not soakin wet but its wet

 

also tested more parts... could it be the main relay???

 

Check your timing, if you already have, check it again.

If you have fuel and spark then the problem can only be timing, or no compression.


If there is gas on the plugs the PGM-FI Main Relay is working, but I would do a fuel pressure test.94

 

I think the main relay might have some to do with this. Check your current relay 4 continuity, if there isn't any, replace it

 

how to check continuity? what pins and it smells kinda shorted real faint smell


im gonna try and get one to swap 2moro

 

fcm compression 175 all cylinders and timming is correct.... should i swap the pgm fi main relay?

 

coolant temp sensor... $30 at autozone.
Really easy to install. Just a a hassle.

I would reset the ECU after and might as well swap out the spark plugs.
Im about 99% sure its this.

Why you ask?
When its cold its shooting too much gas in the combustion chamber and wetting the spark plugs not letting them create a spark.

and the code its throwing is the coolant temp sensor... fix that and let it scan for codes.


PS... reset your ecu properly and let it idle for 5-10mins and NOT hitting the gas at all


You should fix lots of problems
good luck

if you have any questions... lemme know. done this done that.

 

no. Also i forgot to mention that youre going to need a deep socket for the coolant temp sensor. when you buy the sensor . open it and check what size. i forgot what size it was. it will save u a trip back if you need it.

 

Main relay powers up the fuel pump and the injectors on two different relays within the main relay housing. If the plugs are wet with fuel, both the fuel pump and the injectors are working, hence the main relay is working, both of them.

The timing belt could be one tooth off or two teeth off and cause your problem. Put a little oil in each cylinder to up the compression and try to start again. Get an old spark plug and cut the L off of it, plug it into a plug wire, ground the side of the plug and see if the spark will jump the new bigger gap, you may very well have weak spark, seen it many times, sparks but too weak. This is why you need a real spark tester (tool).

 

i really really doubt its the spark plugs. the code is coolant temp and ive fixed this problem before. with 100% success

 

Yes, the ECT sensor can tell the ECM that it is -40F and flood the engine, in that case, you disable the fuel pump, try to start on the fuel thats in the cylinder (due to flooding), the car should start for a couple seconds, try to keep it running by spraying carb cleaner into the intake. Some guys try to regulate fuel by clamping the inlet fuel hose. In the old days on Hondas, you carry a resistor in your glove box that equals a warm engine ECT ohm value, plug that into the harness and start the car, then change ECT sensor that is out of spec.

 

the ect senor is the one under the distributor right? cause i no there is one next to the oil filter also. and the connection to the one under the distributor is cut could that be the reason???

 

by the way thanks for all the help guys

 

Brother, if you dont know where components on your car is, at least pick up a cheap Haynes manual, get a repair manual that has a wire diagram at least, we love to help out but any book is going to tell you where the ECT (TW) is located.

One wire sensor is for the temp gauge on the cluster, two wire sensor should be for the ECT but there are temp sensors that tells the fan when to turn on also, let us know if you need more help.