i bought the 5 lug conversion for my 94 integra but its the conversion for the front only can anybody tell me what im going to need to complete the rear set up

 

ITR or Prelude VTEC rear calipers, ITR 5-lug hub, and ITR 10.3" rear rotors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ITR or Prelude VTEC rear calipers, ITR 5-lug hub, and ITR 10.3" rear rotors.</TD></TR></TABLE>you need trailing arms too. itr REAR hubs wont fit in non-itr trailing arms.

 

^^This is true, you will need ITR rear trailing arms.

 

Naruto was able to do it on his Integra without the trailing arms. PM him.

 

I also heard that it is possible to just swap hubs and that you don't need the rear trailing arms. They are either very similar or the same. I think i heard this from Naruto too.

 

u want to try to swap everything over to ITR, not just hubs. You will find the bushings and arms are different then DC4 vs. DC2.


You probably can make it work, but you should always use all the parts that cam with the ITR swap because they are better in every respect.

 

Dont mean , to thread jack, but what all do I need to do the 5 lug conversion on a GSR ?

 

you CAN put the rear hub & bearing on the gsr trailing arm, but only ~2 threads will engage the axle nut. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't risk my rear tire flying off the car on a hard turn!

Also, the type-R rear trailing arm adds ~5mm of track width to the rear, which improves handling. (The front is actually a little wider, too, as I jsut found out.) In addition, firmer rubber bushings.

 

The ITR and Integra front knuckles are the same. Look up the part numbers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u want to try to swap everything over to ITR, not just hubs. You will find the bushings and arms are different then DC4 vs. DC2.


You probably can make it work, but you should always use all the parts that cam with the ITR swap because they are better in every respect. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bushings on the trailing arms different yes....but more often than not though, are they still in a good enough condition to where you would still want to use them? Mine weren't so I just went ahead and replaced mine on the LS trailing arms. As far as the lower control arms are concerned, you can buy after market ones that will work better. It all depends on what you want out of the conversion and ultimately, our of your car. But don't sit there and tell me that the general trailing arm itself it different than the LS ones because I had BOTH side by side, measured and the only thing different I found was what was mentioned above. Both the itr and LS/GS/GSR trailing arms will bolt up just fine to either or.

And yes, YOU CAN SWAP OUT THE HUBS. IT IS VERY EASY TO DO SO. Its basically the same concept as doing rear disc conversions on civics that came with rear drums. If you know how to do that, then you will know what I'm talking about.

As far as saying that every part that came on the ITR is better in ever respect, yes that is true to an extent, but to get the ACTUAL FULL VALUE of the performance of any itr part, in this case, the suspension, you'd have to couple that with all the rest of the itr parts. Such as the sway bars, strut bars, rear trunk bar, lower tie bar etc etc. But there are after market parts that you CAN use as subsitutes instead that may be cheaper and serve the same functionality you want. Thank goodness for options right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jvtec95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you CAN put the rear hub & bearing on the gsr trailing arm, but only ~2 threads will engage the axle nut. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't risk my rear tire flying off the car on a hard turn!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ummm....I don't know where you got that info from, but I've been driving on my set up for over 2 years. I have been taking hard turns even on streets where there's no traffic and no one else around. And I'm STILL driving with NO problems. I swapped the rear hubs over and never had just 2 threads engaging the axle nut....it went in allllll the way.

 

So to do it on a GSR , all I would need are just the ITR Hubs , and obiously I need the wheels to go with it and rotors, but other than than that , thats all I would need..... correct ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Naruto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bushings on the trailing arms different yes....but more often than not though, are they still in a good enough condition to where you would still want to use them? Mine weren't so I just went ahead and replaced mine on the LS trailing arms. As far as the lower control arms are concerned, you can buy after market ones that will work better. It all depends on what you want out of the conversion and ultimately, our of your car. But don't sit there and tell me that the general trailing arm itself it different than the LS ones because I had BOTH side by side, measured and the only thing different I found was what was mentioned above. Both the itr and LS/GS/GSR trailing arms will bolt up just fine to either or.

And yes, YOU CAN SWAP OUT THE HUBS. IT IS VERY EASY TO DO SO. Its basically the same concept as doing rear disc conversions on civics that came with rear drums. If you know how to do that, then you will know what I'm talking about.

As far as saying that every part that came on the ITR is better in ever respect, yes that is true to an extent, but to get the ACTUAL FULL VALUE of the performance of any itr part, in this case, the suspension, you'd have to couple that with all the rest of the itr parts. Such as the sway bars, strut bars, rear trunk bar, lower tie bar etc etc. But there are after market parts that you CAN use as subsitutes instead that may be cheaper and serve the same functionality you want. Thank goodness for options right? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Cheaper......same function..maybe on the street. However, from an engineering standpoint i would use all the materials and parts that come from an ITR and not short cut things because they "look" the same. I put my honda's on the track and wouldn't compromise my car or self with "cheaper subsitutes". The ITR is better, it your doing a 5 lug for the bling, then why do it. You do a conversion to get better braking for Track/auto xin'g use. I agree with all your points except taking the cheap way out. Just trying to help.

 

as far as i know civic 92+ and integra 94+ trailing arms are the same i had to swap them out before but i use mugen trailing arm bushings the entire hub swaps over no problems there is not any difference in them except bushings

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlwayzSpoolin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So to do it on a GSR , all I would need are just the ITR Hubs , and obiously I need the wheels to go with it and rotors, but other than than that , thats all I would need..... correct ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't forget the calipers I had to use prelude ones only because when I got the conversion, I did not get the calipers and the guy insisted that the LS ones would work ( which is an obvious lie ). That and I couldn't source a set of ITR front and rear calipers.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hooch’n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I agree with all your points except taking the cheap way out. Just trying to help. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with yours! If you read my post, you'll read that I DID in fact swap out the bushings in my LS trailing arms to subsitute I wasn't trying to go the "cheap" way out. Just finding options because my car isn't a type R. Right now I would consider my car still under "project", so there's still room to improve. And no I didn't do the 5 lug out of the bling factor. In fact, I don't even know why I did it now. I guess....just to see if I could do it? Hell that's all in the past, but I did learn quite a bit from doing it.

 

Naruto isnt cheap he's just efficient

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Naruto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ummm....I don't know where you got that info from, but I've been driving on my set up for over 2 years. I have been taking hard turns even on streets where there's no traffic and no one else around. And I'm STILL driving with NO problems. I swapped the rear hubs over and never had just 2 threads engaging the axle nut....it went in allllll the way. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Huh, I'm confused. I KNOW the trailing arms are different, there was a thread in the ITR section where Len compared the two side-by-side. I thought there was ~5mm difference in the length of the spindles. I will admit that the '2 threads' comment was something that someone else told me when I was doing my 5-lug.

If the axle nut threads are properly engaged, then I'm sure it's safe, but I would rather have the extra track width in the rear.

P.S. I agree 100% with what Hooch'n said, as a mechanical engineer.

 

all good points.......

 

When you buy 5 lug conversions they usually come with the trailing arms anyways..it's rare that people will just sell the hubs..but good luck with the conversion maybe make a write up