2nd gen integra question
i wasnt a honda fan until i took apart my brothers gsr w/ type r head and i saw how fun these honda motors can be. im planning on purchasing my friends 92 teg rs, manual everything but with rear disk brakes. now im undecided on what i want to do with it. im thinking of either boosting that motor or swaping a vtech motor either a b18c or a h22 of course with all the harness, wiring and computer. now i need the help of you guys to show me what will work best and what i will get more bang for my buck.
edit i dont need this to be a daily driver car i want something that i can take out at night and blow a few doors off. if i want to cruise i have my maxima.
edit i dont need this to be a daily driver car i want something that i can take out at night and blow a few doors off. if i want to cruise i have my maxima.
Turbo, you can squeeze out alot of horses with it on an LS, you'd be quite suprised. Theres so many things you can do with a Turboed car, N/A is kinda limited in my opinion. But it's all depending on what you like.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chitwn91rs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was waiting for the phone jokes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know, me 2, and if i didnt see one, i was goin to be the first.
but to orig. poster, there fun engines to work with, and alot of my friends say, when you drive a teg, or any honda/acura for that matter, and its lowered, with good suspension.. it feel's like your driving a go-kart
and to me, it does now that i got suspension put in.
but back to topic, you'd get alot of power out of a turbo setup, if you look on the frist page here, there is a guy that has a thread named JACKSON RACING supercharger question.. or somethin along those lines, read on it, were talkin about whats better, supercharger or turbo, and whats better for what altitude's
</TD></TR></TABLE>i know, me 2, and if i didnt see one, i was goin to be the first.
but to orig. poster, there fun engines to work with, and alot of my friends say, when you drive a teg, or any honda/acura for that matter, and its lowered, with good suspension.. it feel's like your driving a go-kart
and to me, it does now that i got suspension put in.but back to topic, you'd get alot of power out of a turbo setup, if you look on the frist page here, there is a guy that has a thread named JACKSON RACING supercharger question.. or somethin along those lines, read on it, were talkin about whats better, supercharger or turbo, and whats better for what altitude's
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr.beeks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are plenty of
vtech choices.....
anything with over 900mhz will be good for you to play with...</TD></TR></TABLE>
vtech choices.....
anything with over 900mhz will be good for you to play with...</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok bought the integra now its motor time. i was looking at a complete type r swap for it but i have a few questions and i didnt want to start a whole new thread for it.
1) do i need to change wiring harnesses on the inside of the car?
2) the car originally has a cable tranny can a hydro tranny be put in without tons of modification.
3)where can i get the motor mounts for a DA/type r swap/
4)how many sleepless hours am i looking at for the FULL WORKING swap?
1) do i need to change wiring harnesses on the inside of the car?
2) the car originally has a cable tranny can a hydro tranny be put in without tons of modification.
3)where can i get the motor mounts for a DA/type r swap/
4)how many sleepless hours am i looking at for the FULL WORKING swap?
1. iirc, if you get a jdm b18c5, then you can use the stock harness because both are obd1.
2. Hasport makes a cable to hydro tranny conversion kit.
3. You can use all your stock mounts... I think. I dunno, hope someone else can fill you in on that.
4. Dunno... but renting a cherry picker, picking up a cold case of heiny's, and calling over a few tech-savvy's buddies couldn't hurt. A weekend, at most?
edit: No h22? I think, for 12's, an h22 would be an excellent choice. Build it for boost, and don't worry about snapping a few axles because its a once-in-a-while car anyhow. A little more involved though I guess..
2. Hasport makes a cable to hydro tranny conversion kit.
3. You can use all your stock mounts... I think. I dunno, hope someone else can fill you in on that.
4. Dunno... but renting a cherry picker, picking up a cold case of heiny's, and calling over a few tech-savvy's buddies couldn't hurt. A weekend, at most?
edit: No h22? I think, for 12's, an h22 would be an excellent choice. Build it for boost, and don't worry about snapping a few axles because its a once-in-a-while car anyhow. A little more involved though I guess..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Noob4life »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. iirc, if you get a jdm b18c5, then you can use the stock harness because both are obd1.
2. Hasport makes a cable to hydro tranny conversion kit.
3. You can use all your stock mounts... I think. I dunno, hope someone else can fill you in on that.
4. Dunno... but renting a cherry picker, picking up a cold case of heiny's, and calling over a few tech-savvy's buddies couldn't hurt. A weekend, at most?
edit: No h22? I think, for 12's, an h22 would be an excellent choice. Build it for boost, and don't worry about snapping a few axles because its a once-in-a-while car anyhow. A little more involved though I guess..</TD></TR></TABLE>
h22 swaps into a gen2 is a NIGHTMARE. there's a few that's done it, but you might be better off boosting the b18a.
cable->hydro conversion kits arent that great...my buddy's shop gets a few hits everynow and then b/c of that particular kit.
my pick would be to boost that motor of yours, or pick up my head
2. Hasport makes a cable to hydro tranny conversion kit.
3. You can use all your stock mounts... I think. I dunno, hope someone else can fill you in on that.
4. Dunno... but renting a cherry picker, picking up a cold case of heiny's, and calling over a few tech-savvy's buddies couldn't hurt. A weekend, at most?
edit: No h22? I think, for 12's, an h22 would be an excellent choice. Build it for boost, and don't worry about snapping a few axles because its a once-in-a-while car anyhow. A little more involved though I guess..</TD></TR></TABLE>
h22 swaps into a gen2 is a NIGHTMARE. there's a few that's done it, but you might be better off boosting the b18a.
cable->hydro conversion kits arent that great...my buddy's shop gets a few hits everynow and then b/c of that particular kit.
my pick would be to boost that motor of yours, or pick up my head
ok let me get this straight i should ditch the whole type r swap and go with a ls/vtech motor. ok on a stock ls motor with no modifications done to it whatsoever how many lbs of boost can i throw in w/o worring about any damage to the motor. same things goes with an ls/vtech. thanks man i really appreciate the comments
i wouldnt necessarily say 'ditch the ITR motor". boosting or slapping a head on there would be the cheaper alternative. if you have a good engine, why throw it away so you can throw an ITR motor in there? most people will say boost.
i wouldnt take it past 7psi on stock internals, but i'd wait for the boostheads to chime in.
i wouldnt take it past 7psi on stock internals, but i'd wait for the boostheads to chime in.
For G2 specific info please come join us at http://www.g2ic.com.
Daily driver (reliable) - B20, or B18C if you want VTEC.
Non daily driver (no reliability) - mad boost
Daily driver (reliable) - B20, or B18C if you want VTEC.
Non daily driver (no reliability) - mad boost
you can boost 10psi very easily on a b18a/b block. hell, i've seen guys boosting 15psi on a stock block.
you are limited by power output, not by boost pressure. As long as you have proper fuel and spark managment, you will be fine.
you are limited by power output, not by boost pressure. As long as you have proper fuel and spark managment, you will be fine.
for the best bang for the money, keep the stock engine. rebuild with forged internals, resleeve with 84mm sleeves. have the head ported and polished and get web cams' turbo cams. a good t3/t4 setup can be found for under 3k. then you should have a powerplant that should seriously rock. and it will be stock.
the only thing to watch out for is the condition of the transmission. that might be the weak link. the b18a open differentials are very weak. should swap in a quaife lsd if affordable.
the only thing to watch out for is the condition of the transmission. that might be the weak link. the b18a open differentials are very weak. should swap in a quaife lsd if affordable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the best bang for the money, keep the stock engine. rebuild with forged internals, resleeve with 84mm sleeves. have the head ported and polished and get web cams' turbo cams. a good t3/t4 setup can be found for under 3k. then you should have a powerplant that should seriously rock. and it will be stock.
the only thing to watch out for is the condition of the transmission. that might be the weak link. the b18a open differentials are very weak. should swap in a quaife lsd if affordable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a good setup for alot of power,....... but you can hardly call that "stock". That is anything but stock and in no way as reliable as a real "stock" motor.
the only thing to watch out for is the condition of the transmission. that might be the weak link. the b18a open differentials are very weak. should swap in a quaife lsd if affordable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is a good setup for alot of power,....... but you can hardly call that "stock". That is anything but stock and in no way as reliable as a real "stock" motor.
ok i dont want a car that will be in my shop all 29 days a week and i would only be able to drive it once a month. i want something reliable and fast. and thats not an oxymoron with hondas. Another note i dont want to spend more than 5g's on it which was why i was gonna go itr
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wraith_G2IC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
This is a good setup for alot of power,....... but you can hardly call that "stock". That is anything but stock and in no way as reliable as a real "stock" motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
actualy it will be more reliable then a 100% stock engine. and if you do your build right it should only take about 14 days.
This is a good setup for alot of power,....... but you can hardly call that "stock". That is anything but stock and in no way as reliable as a real "stock" motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
actualy it will be more reliable then a 100% stock engine. and if you do your build right it should only take about 14 days.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmotorsports »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actualy it will be more reliable then a 100% stock engine. and if you do your build right it should only take about 14 days. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I am not questioning your engine building skills or those of your favorite builder, but a B18B/A/C stuffed with forged internals does not equal "stock" PERIOD. And I don't know of any builder that would be so bold as to say a "built" longblock will be more reliable than stock. The only way to get better than stock is to balance and blueprint with all stock components. It is a fact, that built engines will not go 200k+. This could be due to the components, the build, or the abuse they usually endure.
Sorry, but I know better.
It sounds like he wants some reliablity from his statements. My previous statements still stand.
Some reliable options: B20 - similar horsepower, lots more torque, and fun around town, not so fun on the top end where they are lacking. B18C - more horsepower, more torque, this engine loves the mid to upper end. B16A - more horsepower, less torque, you need to get the RPMs up to wake-up this little motor. All of these are straight drop-ins with 100% OEM Honda reliability. Use any cable trans with a clutch that matches the year of the trans and they bolt right up. It is my personal preferance to keep LS trans with non-VTEC motors, and GSR trans with the VTECs. Anyone (and lots will) can state reasons why they "love" their GSR trans on a non-VTEC, but there is a reason why Honda didn't ship cars this way. The gears are set up in a GSR trans to get you into the upper RPMs quickly, why would you want this on a motor that lacks top end.
If you visit G2IC.com there is a fairly complete swap guide for engine and trans combos under the TegTips section. For anyone with a G2, download it, read it, and commit it to memory.
I am not questioning your engine building skills or those of your favorite builder, but a B18B/A/C stuffed with forged internals does not equal "stock" PERIOD. And I don't know of any builder that would be so bold as to say a "built" longblock will be more reliable than stock. The only way to get better than stock is to balance and blueprint with all stock components. It is a fact, that built engines will not go 200k+. This could be due to the components, the build, or the abuse they usually endure.
Sorry, but I know better.
It sounds like he wants some reliablity from his statements. My previous statements still stand.
Some reliable options: B20 - similar horsepower, lots more torque, and fun around town, not so fun on the top end where they are lacking. B18C - more horsepower, more torque, this engine loves the mid to upper end. B16A - more horsepower, less torque, you need to get the RPMs up to wake-up this little motor. All of these are straight drop-ins with 100% OEM Honda reliability. Use any cable trans with a clutch that matches the year of the trans and they bolt right up. It is my personal preferance to keep LS trans with non-VTEC motors, and GSR trans with the VTECs. Anyone (and lots will) can state reasons why they "love" their GSR trans on a non-VTEC, but there is a reason why Honda didn't ship cars this way. The gears are set up in a GSR trans to get you into the upper RPMs quickly, why would you want this on a motor that lacks top end.
If you visit G2IC.com there is a fairly complete swap guide for engine and trans combos under the TegTips section. For anyone with a G2, download it, read it, and commit it to memory.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAsix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B20/B16 stein motor.....CTR pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>
CTR pistons in a B20 block.... you sure about that?
CTR pistons in a B20 block.... you sure about that?


