you really are a detail *****...



hahaha

 

Very Nice build! Subscribed.

 

I try not to be...

 

April 29, 2009


Well, I put both ‘90s on the rack to double check the track width. Turns out it’s more like 0.50” wider on the white ’90.

To verify the information I setup both cars the same way.



Tomorrow I’m going to check a few things on a set of EG trailing arms…

 

this is the best build ever! please tell me that we will see this car at atleast one of the local meets. I want to see this in person. this build is very metiulous! Good work I only dream of building a car like this.

 

just what he said

 

Thank you.

I'll see what I can do. :-)

 

It’s kind of funny, but I never really took pictures of the ’90 before the accident…

I did find these two from a few years ago. We were at a local autocross and I had one of those runs you don’t forget. Where everything goes perfectly and the car does what you want it to kind of run…

Sorry the pictures are kind of small.

 

This turned out great

 

The car is far from complete!

I was looking for these pictures to see wheel fitment in the rear. It's been a few years since I had the VOLKs on the car and I just wanted to make sure they fit the way I remember

 

Are those off the shelf Koni yellows with the stock perch removed? If so, were they shortened at all, because I've heard that Koni's will blow much sooner if used with lowering springs.

 

That‘s a very bad rumor.

They are off the shelf Koni’s. I bought these shocks for my Type R back in ’01 they were run in stock configuration for two years then removed from the car when I sold it. After that I installed them on the ’90 in the configuration you see now…

Long story short; I been using them for six years with no signs of leaking.

 

That's great to hear. For me to purchase Konis and the sleeves, have them shortened and revalved, not to mention shipping from Canada to Truechoice, it would get darned expensive.

This build looks absolutely awesome by the way. Very, very meticulous and detailed. I only wish that I had the time and resources to do the same.

 

May 4, 2009



Man, I guess it’s been a few days since I updated this…

Okay, since the car was off the lift I thought I’d start with the parts I picked up this weekend.

I installed the new 15/16 master cylinder this morning…









Kind of boring, but I‘ve been looking forward to installing it. :-)

The second part is a new Koyo DA radiator…



I didn’t finish installing it because I’m waiting for a couple additional parts.

- Thermostat housing
- Fuel rail absorber

Once I was done with the fun stuff I started on the trailing arm situation again. I took a few more measurements today. I was curious about the upper link and the lower control arm mounting points between three different trailing arms: ED, DA, and DC/EG.

What I was able to find made me a bit upset. I should have done more research on the subject before I spent money and time on new trailing arm bushings.

Since the only part changed was the trailing arm I focused on what the difference were… As most of us know the trailing arm bushing mounts in the same place on all of the above mentioned cars. So, I wanted the dimensions of the two mounting points.

Upper link difference: 13mm
Lower control arm difference: 11mm

Looking at the measurements and taking both sides into account it doesn’t add up to the 0.50” difference in track width. One of the things to take into consideration is the trailing arms effect on the camber and subsequently the placement of the plumb bob in relation to the floor.

Long story short to all who think the DA trailing arms work you’re wrong or were told wrong. Everything about them works if you’re looking for a wider rear track. I’ll post up pictures tomorrow showing my remedy for the problem…

 

man ive been gone almost a week lol good progress man! looks SEXY

 

I guess im glad that I used CRX rear disc's on my hatch instead of DA teg ones. Seriously that is an interesting find.

 

I was a little pissed about it...

I knew the SSR's should fit because they're the same as my VOLK's and they've been on the car before. So, that being said I wanted to know why everyone said it would work and it didn't...

 

May 6, 2009


I’ll explain later, but here are a few pictures to mill over…

 

Its hard to tell from those pictures, but I think I can see a difference in the upper and lower control arm mounting points.

 

Sorry, I haven't had time to explain the above pictures. The ones on the right in the top picture are DC/EG and the ones to the left are the stock ED trailing arms.

They are virtually identical.

Primary difference is the mud flap for the lower control arm bolt.

I'll try to get back to this tonight...

 

Amazing!!!!! I love you build man... Not a lot of people have that type of just pure white.

 

Thank you.

I'm just keeping the stock color(shade)...

 

nice!!! LOVE all the detail man!

 

what brand underbody coating did you use if you dont mind me asking?

 

I remarked on that very same issue when I swapped out my EF EX sedan's rear brakes. The control arms are definitely of different angles. I placed them side by side and putting a screw driver into one of the holes so that they line up on the top side, but the other side were not matching. So had I installed the DA control arms I would see a huge neg. camber angle on the wheels. I wish I knew about your work sooner, I could have helped. But then again, your working with Type-R control arms.

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about.