does anyone have experience with the Motul RBF600 brake fluid? I'm going to either run that and put in an order or run to NAPA to see if they have ATE blue.

 

i'm interested in these bumper fits. blake, you should definitely start up a GB thread to generate some interest. i'm sure a lot of people would be wanting to get a set or two.

 

buy some 5.1 dot fluid it will have the highest boiling point and it works with abs unlike dot 5. napa doesnt sell motul..

5.1 dry boiling point +585°F (+307°C) and wet is +365°F (+185°C)
napa brand is 15 bucks a QT


Modified by subydoored at 2:04 PM 8/21/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by subydoored &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy some 5.1 dot fluid it will have the highest boiling point and it works with abs unlike dot 5. napa doesnt sell motul..

5.1 dry boiling point +585°F (+307°C) and wet is +365°F (+185°C)
napa brand is 15 bucks a QT


Modified by subydoored at 2:04 PM 8/21/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

he's not as interested in the boiling point as much as the compressibility of the fluid is.

 

Napa probably won't have the ATE blue, but we can get the Pentosin DOT4

 

no ate blue either at napa.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ethereal2pt2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he's not as interested in the boiling point as much as the compressibility of the fluid is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the reason for ate blue is that boiling points IE the performance of the fluid and 5.1 can b mixd with dot 3 and 4.

 

Blake you should have a package by the end of the week. I got the anodizing done yesterday, gonna pick up some o-rings tonight and get them on the way!

 

now thats what im talkin about!!

 

i definitely need some more dyno time. eCtune is [freak]ing awesome! individual ignition cylinder trims and being able to turn off the honda ignition advancement saved me.

With more dyno time, i could definitely make the graph smoother. The more and more and fiddled with individual cylinder trim, the more timing i could add and thus the more power it kept making. The plugs show absolutely zero signs of detonation. Overall i am very very happy with the outcome and it really lets you know how dynoing correctly by reading the plugs can really benefit you but take up a shitload of time. I'm strapped for money right now so it ends like this:



zero traction for 1st or 2nd even with the Advan A048's on.

 

What's going from 4.25-5.6k rpm?

 

to save time, i mostly concentrated on 5400+ as that is all i use at the track. And i'll be at the track tomorrow.

 

So... what exactly prompted the dyno tuning session? You were just bored or you wanted to get a smoother WOT graph? Not really seeing the reason for retuning.

Still not bad for stock cams though. Thanks for posting. Any Winter projects planned?

Pirate

 

I went with a better engine management

 

Okay, cool.

 

Man you really need some cams yO! lol

Usually I see fully built heads with stock block but you're rocking the fully built block with stock heads lol

I'm guessing money is a major issue in your case though..

 

it just got worse. I noticed something like an exhaust leak sound but not the typical sound while at the track. Almost like valve tap while accelerating. turns out the #2 runner is cracked on the RMF at the flange. Its cracked about half way around the port.

other than that, the track preparation was absolutely horrid. No water in the water box, no VHT treatment....nothing. Could only use about 1/4-1/2 throttle for 2nd and i could fully get into 2nd around 6500 rpm. Frustrated as hell i eeked out a 14.1 at about 99mph with a 2.2 60'.

 

drag strip ≠ racetrack (by extension strip ≠ track)

It's impressive that you can't get traction with tires like those. On the header, does it look like a problem with the weld? I'm guessing it is unsupported from the head to the first exhaust hanger? I wonder if adding a slip joint or support closer to the head would help.

 

Looks like it originated just in front of the weld. Its now working its way around the pipe. There is only about an inch holding it to the flange now. Ive got 5 hours of interstate driving now to get back home . Ive had it for a little over 3 years now.

 

RMF doesn't use the header support flange that bolts to the back of the block??

You should just weld it back together, and make a hanger that would support ur header from the back of the block like the OEM header does.

 

it does, but it broke after like a month and i could never get him to send me another one so i made my own. i guess until recently, it was doing a fine job.

 

cracked all the way around

 

That's crap.
Did you ever get yourself a welder or give up on that?

 

slightly off topic but whats going on with the bumper fits? up for sale yet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matysik27 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">slightly off topic but whats going on with the bumper fits? up for sale yet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
should talk to rosko about these. since he was going to make them.

 

i'm waiting for the set of pieces for the other side of the car. Once i get all of them i am going to install them and do a writeup. Then we will have a group buy (have to talk to rosko) once everything has been given two thumbs up.