2lude4u

I posted this a while ago in the prelude forum, but figured I should post it here for all you NA guys.

Allright, so a few things delayed me but I finally got it done. I'm somewhat disappointed in my #'s, not due the mani, but something is holding my power back (I'm leaning towards exhaust, and couple timing issues).

Anyways, I ran several runs on the same day to test a few Intake Manifold set ups.
1. Stock port matched Manifold with IAB's
2. Stock Mani with IAB's open
3. Modified Mani with Single IAB Plate bored out (prepared by Blacktrax)
4. Modified Mani with Double IAB Plates bored out (prepared by Blacktrax)

Quick explanation before I post the graphs and pics.
Stock Mani gave me 188 horses with 141 ftlbs of torque
Leaving the plates open gained 1-2 horses up high lost torque down low, as expected
Single plate bored out gained 2-3 horses up high, lost torque down low
Double Plate Mani gained 4-7 horses up high, lost torque down low, but fatter torque up high

The point at which the power for non-IAB set ups goes above Stock set ups is consistently at 4500 rpm. That's why Honda has the IAB's open at that point. However when you have less metal in the way, no IAB's, there are higher gains.

Here's the info, make your own conclusions. These dynos were performed at DNR on a dynojet, not at Blacktrax so they are unbiased.

Tha Manifold


Stock vs. Single Plate (red is stock, green 1 plate)


Stock vs. Double Plate (red is stock, blue 2 plate)


My set up for those interested:
Hondata Stage 4b
Mildy ported head with Flat Valves
JDM Block
Crower Stage 3 cams
AEM V2
64mm Throttle body
MSD SCI
Hondata IM gasket
Greddy Header w/ 2 1/2" collector mod
Catco 2 1/2" High flow cat
Apexi Dunk exhaust
Unorthodox Pulley
No PS or AC

b19coupe

Nice test

2point2

care to share a pic of the bored out iab?

2lude4u

Sorry, I don't have a pic. I didn't have the bored out plates yet when I took the pic, then forgot to take a picture of them before I did the test.

They were bored and ported to match the top and lower portion of the Intake Manifold. All of the inner metal is completely removed so that the IAB plates are simply rectangular rings.

JohnnieChimpo

Sorry to wake the dead.

I was wondering, did you get a chance to dyno the manifold without any plates?

We modified the H22 manifold just like yours not so much as to be just like you but because we want to turbo the H22 and we didn't want "all the extra metal" as you put it, in the way.

Your dyno plots look like you lost torque below 4500 vs the more plates you added.

We are looking at boosting torque down low to aid in turbo spool up.
also
Did you have any tuning problems with the opened up manifold? Ours is running a little odd.

2lude4u

A late reply on my part, but I didn't dyno it without any plates. The manifold lost about the same amount of low end torque with single & double plates, so I would guess the torque loss for no plates would be about the same though you are reducing plenum volume. I don't know enough about Manifold dynamics to offer any suggestions, all I can say is that my manifold has the longest possible runners (when the plates are bored out completely) to try and keep some decent low end torque (it performed well except for the big dip between 3700-4500 rpm). I might suggest trying boring out the plate, or plates, so that the butterflies are removed along with the metal separating long runner & short runner but leave the metal that separates each cylinder runner. This would effectively lengthen the runners for potentially improved low end torque.

As far as tuning goes, I haven't had any significant problems. What do you mean by running odd? What's it doing?

machine4321

good stuff,

what kinda dyno was it on , and how do you like the crower cams ?

JohnnieChimpo

I think it might be going away.
It had a weird hesitation when we first started it.
It seems to be clearing itself up.

2lude4u

It was on a dynojet.

I concluded the low numbers were due to bad rings, so after I replace my block (might go back to a built block this time) the #'s will improve. The Crower 3's are a nice cam, good performance and a nice exhaust note. I was originally going to use JUN (I still have a JUN intake cam) but went with Crower since I didn't want to wait 6 mos. to get the exhaust cam. The profiles of the JUN and Crower intake cam are visually similar, though I'm sure they each have their differences.