Shaving engine bay using solder?
02-17-2008, 08:57 PM
#26
Re: (140sx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 140sx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> unless your have about 80 spare hours</TD></TR></TABLE>
very true this is how far i am with about 30-40 hours into it
use evercoat metal glaze for filler try to use as little as possilbe. it just depends all what you want to hide and what to do with the seams its up to how much time you would like to spend in your bay i feel like i have lived in mine fore 3 weeks lol
very true this is how far i am with about 30-40 hours into it
use evercoat metal glaze for filler try to use as little as possilbe. it just depends all what you want to hide and what to do with the seams its up to how much time you would like to spend in your bay i feel like i have lived in mine fore 3 weeks lol
02-17-2008, 10:09 PM
#27
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Brass hammer and a mig welder. place the brass behind the hole then fill it with weld. weld wont stick to well to the brass, but it will allow you to fill the hole with out burning through alot easier.
02-18-2008, 09:04 AM
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Re: (imptricer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by imptricer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
very true this is how far i am with about 30-40 hours into it
use evercoat metal glaze for filler try to use as little as possilbe. it just depends all what you want to hide and what to do with the seams its up to how much time you would like to spend in your bay i feel like i have lived in mine fore 3 weeks lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well if you would quit messing around and writing crap all over you would have been done already.
very true this is how far i am with about 30-40 hours into it
use evercoat metal glaze for filler try to use as little as possilbe. it just depends all what you want to hide and what to do with the seams its up to how much time you would like to spend in your bay i feel like i have lived in mine fore 3 weeks lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well if you would quit messing around and writing crap all over you would have been done already.
02-20-2008, 10:52 PM
#33
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For a little FYI, when I did mine, I welded all the holes, then on some areas, I used LEAD (the old school kind) to do shaping and contouring...not easy
02-22-2008, 09:49 AM
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Re: (cua0)
wouldent bondo crack? over time? i would say use bondo but depending on how wide/deep the holes are. fiberglass is a good way to go and bondo over to fill in pores 
02-22-2008, 10:39 AM
#37
I drive a G35, it's silver, surprised?
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Re: (ej6hatchie)
This what I ended up doing:
Once I had everything grinded down to the metal, I weighed my options. I considered purchasing a welder to fill in the holes, and by all means that is the most permanant and dependable method. But since these holes have no structural integrity and should not experience any flex - I figured I can probably just fill them in with something.
So after checking around and researching a bit, I found this:
It is a aluminum body filler. I've done body work since I was 16 and never tried working with this stuff. It's alot like Bondo - except that it's filled with metal particles which makes it pretty strong. At about $30 bucks a quart, I figure it's worth a try. Will it hold up? PM me in about 2 years and I'll let you know.
OMG, it's liquid metal.
Goes on like butter...
Then I tried sanding it down to check the strength. It's seems very strong and it feels/looks like aluminum. I think this is going to work well.
So I went ahead and filled in all holes with this stuff...
Lastly, I filled the gaping holes on the firewall with fiberglass. I'm going to add a couple of more layers to really make it strong.
Once I had everything grinded down to the metal, I weighed my options. I considered purchasing a welder to fill in the holes, and by all means that is the most permanant and dependable method. But since these holes have no structural integrity and should not experience any flex - I figured I can probably just fill them in with something.
So after checking around and researching a bit, I found this:
It is a aluminum body filler. I've done body work since I was 16 and never tried working with this stuff. It's alot like Bondo - except that it's filled with metal particles which makes it pretty strong. At about $30 bucks a quart, I figure it's worth a try. Will it hold up? PM me in about 2 years and I'll let you know.
OMG, it's liquid metal.
Goes on like butter...
Then I tried sanding it down to check the strength. It's seems very strong and it feels/looks like aluminum. I think this is going to work well.
So I went ahead and filled in all holes with this stuff...
Lastly, I filled the gaping holes on the firewall with fiberglass. I'm going to add a couple of more layers to really make it strong.
02-23-2008, 07:12 PM
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Re: (CARMA_626)
hey CARMA_626, not trying to be offensive but it seems like you're trying to avoid welding with the filler and fiberglass over the large holes.
seems to be better to patch larger holes with mild......... i guess it takes longer but it'll last forever rather than fiberglass that will chip after a long while
seems to be better to patch larger holes with mild......... i guess it takes longer but it'll last forever rather than fiberglass that will chip after a long while
02-23-2008, 08:03 PM
#40
I drive a G35, it's silver, surprised?
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Re: (RS2 FAB)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RS2 FAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey CARMA_626, not trying to be offensive but it seems like you're trying to avoid welding with the filler and fiberglass over the large holes.
seems to be better to patch larger holes with mild......... i guess it takes longer but it'll last forever rather than fiberglass that will chip after a long while </TD></TR></TABLE>
No offense taken, as I am indeed trying to avoid using a welder.
Actually I used fiberglass to mold over my side door moldings. It's been three years and it's held up fine.
I'm just trying to find alternatives to welding. Since this is all cosmetic stuff, I think the All Metal will hold up. I cant guarantee it at this stage, but I think it will. Hands down, welding is the best and most permanant solution. But I cant see why this shouldnt work as well.
seems to be better to patch larger holes with mild......... i guess it takes longer but it'll last forever rather than fiberglass that will chip after a long while </TD></TR></TABLE>
No offense taken, as I am indeed trying to avoid using a welder.
Actually I used fiberglass to mold over my side door moldings. It's been three years and it's held up fine.
I'm just trying to find alternatives to welding. Since this is all cosmetic stuff, I think the All Metal will hold up. I cant guarantee it at this stage, but I think it will. Hands down, welding is the best and most permanant solution. But I cant see why this shouldnt work as well.
02-25-2008, 02:19 PM
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Re: (sharkytm)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sharkytm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Solder only works on copper. Weld it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope, works on steel, tin, and bronze. I don't know what else it may work on, but I've soldered to all of those.
nope, works on steel, tin, and bronze. I don't know what else it may work on, but I've soldered to all of those.
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